Drag Race Engine

cometguy

Well-known member
(I have this posted in the "1320" forum as well.)

Guys, it's time to go through the motor and I'm looking for some input.

I want to find any information relating to the best available "stock" components for the 200. In other words, which years, if any, had the best block, rods, or crank. Are there aftermarket parts that you have used and found to be better than the rest?

Please keep in mind that I am restricted to a C9DE-M or D3DE-AA head casting, stock crank configuration and stock or equal weight aftermarket rods. I am using a stock adjustable rocker arm and aftermarket heavy wall pushrods. I'm not looking for camshaft recommendations in this post. The pistons must be equal or heavier than stock weight and of the same dome style. Ring package must be the same dimensions as original.

Up to now, the rpm ceiling has been 5800-5900 and I plan to increase that to approx. 6200.

This is a legal IHRA/NHRA stocker with a C4, 5.43 gear, 28" tire and weighs 2700 lb with driver.
 
I've never seen a stocker motor that was err, um , stock parts per the rules.

Usually the first question is : " how much are we gonna cheat?"

:shock:
 
Crosley":a4x4mjqc said:
I've never seen a stocker motor that was err, um , stock parts per the rules.

Usually the first question is : " how much are we gonna cheat?"

:shock:

All the cheating you could devise would not make enough difference to put this combination at the top of the performance heap in its class. I'd be ecstatic if it would run a second under the 15.80 index.
 
Remember this?
cometguy":221lrg3r said:
With respect to PLAN, the stroke and piston area are off limits in this class. We can play with compression however; the piston is at zero deck with a FelPro gasket that crushes to .042-.043. The allowable limit is any combination totalling .031. The current valve cover set-up has a sealed pcv and one breather doubling as an oil filler. I will check all the rockers as well.

Anything other than the specified manifold and carb for the year of the car (1972) would be considered illegal but most tech guys would not check dimensions, just casting #'s. The exception would be a post record-run tear down or a protest situation. Very unlikely in my case. The current head casting is D5DE-BA(illegal for '72) and I have an unmolested casting from a '71 Maverick, C9DE-M which is OK by the book.

Are you guys suggesting less gear? The rear end is an 8" and less gear will be easier to source than a higher ratio for certain. The trans has minimal mods; stock servo, reverse pattern manual valve body, shift kit and a converter that will flash to 3900rpm.

Great work, your combo is getting pretty well optimized at present!

Your hard work has resulted in moving from a 4.62 ratio and 26" combo with 15.30 and 2.07 60 foot times to a 5.43 ratio and 28" tires for 15.25 and sub 2.01 60 foot times.

The trap speed is around 86 mph now, so your pulling what, 5600 rpm?, when it was 5100 rpm. That may not be power, it's optimization, period!
Your team effort has basically created half a seconds more hp by the changes. Your right into the peak power band with your cam, compression, carb and head flow. That Quarter mile time indicates about 1.1% more effective horsepower, or 2.25 hp.

I still think that a success will be going back on gear to create maximum power at 5600rpm so the combo you've got will give you, say, a 14.8 second pass.

That means you'll have to bring your gearing down from the 15.3 mph per 1000 rpm you have now back closer to the 16.7 mph per 1000 rpm you had before.

I'm thinking that power supply is best at about 5500 rpm with a 1.50:1 rod ratio on the smaller 200, since its a short stroke engine verses what Australians know about 250 engines. Evidence from work done in the late 60's on the 2V Falcon 250 showed that the poor rod ratio on a six in line would lower the rpm peak. Even "port on port" carbs like triple Webers or Dellortos didn't raise the rpm limit to 7500 rpm with a 320 degree cam, 4800 rpm was a magical figure of rpm that the 1.50:1 rod ratio that a long stroke 250 created.

The only whay to make more hp with a 1 venturi carb probaly not rev related. It is to go to finding a cam grind that creates high pressure in the camber (bmep) and a part number perfect carb which flows the most cfm at 3"Hg. For a 200 Ford, the ideal peak rpm for a 1-bbl head might not be 6200 rpm, but 5100 to 5600 rpm on a 200. Past 250 feet per second, you reach very turbulent air flow, and maximum power drops. An example is the F1 engines which rev to 20000 rpm, or NASCAR engines which rev to 7500 rpm. They make less specific power for each rpm than an engine with less air speed.

Anecdotal examples of bending the rules within the rules. The old production stock British Group 2 (later Group A) rules for carbs was that the term "adaptor" and "carb" and "manifold" must be defined. Where it's not, you use that cloud to improve the whole flow to each cylinder by seredipity time on a flow bench. You go through odd ball combinations until you improve the cfm flow and compression (BMEP) to each cylinder, sometimes by reducing CFM and increasing compression to make up for the loss.


If YA or RBG Carter, or the factory replacement Autolite 1940, you have to look at what legal combo of adaptor and intake you can use helps your cause. I'd look at if a stock 1.5" log head could be modified within the rules to a 1.75" log, without technically hand finishing it. You get to scramble the parts to suit. For example, Aussie racer Dick Johnston used to glue to parts of his old 1985 302 Mustang Group A racer's manifold, after reparing the intenal passages for a 1984 4V HO intake, but still use a 1985 EFI roller rocker cam. The 4180 carb and two part Araldite held the combination together and, whamo, there was suddenly 320 hp instead of 260! All within the rules.

Aussies working there old L6 and I6's found a smaller chamber head which is still legal can bump the compression off the scale for some improvement, even a 'bad' casting that trades off cfm flow at 28" H20 may be made up for by a 15% higher compression ratio. That's worth more hp with less cfm. The old 46 cc 138/149/161 uesed to be slapped on a 173/179/186/202 for a big boost in squeeze. What if you used the 52 cc 170 spec head planed?

Perhaps the use of low compression 12cc California spec head, but with 5.5 cc pistons, with the right exhast gas recriculation pump plumbed to add a 40 cfm free air flow ticket, evenly distributed over a 6 cylinders (like EFI), while the low cfm carb could add fuel from a little California spec 165 cfm leaker.

This could exceed the 185 cfm from a good Carter carb. An engine that makes 195 hp at 5100 rpm beats 196 hp at 5600 rpm if its optimised to suit.

I'm aware of another thing from Aussie Holden and Ford sixes with less than 12 counterweights or cast iron cranks. Crank vibration tends to cause harmonic vibration which hurts the power at around 4500 to 6200 rpm on six cylinder engines in the 3.0 to 4.1 size range. Holden gained about 1000 rpm of safe extra revline (from 4500 to 5500 without cam changes).


To verfiy, you draw two converging lines, horizontal line, and a line 10 degrees to the horizon on the side of the engine block on a white backing, and then data log by video the actual horizintal up thrust at each rev range. (This is used in vibrating table tests for maximum density of gravels by geologists in the Earth Manual). Amplitududes in 1/32" intervals can be logged, and you can see when the in the rev range things go critical. Anyway, it allows you to see that crankshaft vibration is hurting the power. The old four bearing 170 and 200 cranks were about 6 pounds heavier, and sometimes this alters the revs at which the power sapping harmonics occur. I've heared that 1972 was when four bearing blocks were replaced by the seven bearing block from Consumer Guide in there 85 years of Ford history book. Yet this is contrary to what we at Ford Six have found to be the case. Four bearing engins make more power at lower revs than seven bearing engines,as the frictional resistance is less. After a certain point, vibrations hurt power, but a heavier crank usually shifts the point where vibration happens further up the rpm scale.
 
WOW!!......there's some great stuff there, thanks for all the thought involved with your reply. There is a different cam in the works for next year, along with a smaller dia. torque converter. The car must be quicker in 60ft to be competitive in heads-up class run-offs; as infrequent as they may be.
A friend of mine helps me with the program and he has an engineering pedigree, working in the aircraft design industry. He also has a flow bench.
 
Howdy,

I think you said you had a choice of C9DE-M or D3DE-AA heads. My research has shown the 69-m to have approx. 52 cc combustion chamber as opposed to 62 cc's for the 73 - AA head.

Caution: Some 69-m head had the 62 cc chambers. FoMoCo liked to change things in mid-year production. If you have both heads, cc them to verify.

The 69-m at 52 cc gives an 8.6 compression with a .043 headgasket.
The 73-aa head at 62 cc gives a 7.7 compression with a .043 head gasket

FIND AND USE AN OEM .025 STEEL SHIM HEADGASKET. They are available occasionally here on the forum.
The 69-m at 52 cc gives a 9.0 compression with a .025 headgasket.
The 73-aa head at 62 cc gives an 8.0 compression with a .025 head gasket.

Go with the '69-m head (if it has the 52 cc) for the MOST compression.

Can you back-cut the valves?

Can you use different valve springs?

Can you do a 3-angle valve job?

Pistons: The "california" pistons had a13 cc dish. Stock "49 state" pistons had a 7cc dish. Many replacement pistons have a 6.5 cc dish. Reason: probably because most have a shorter compression height (1.50" is stock) to allow for the block being decked .005" to .010" to flatten the gasket surface. So, is it possible that "Canadian" pistons were different than US pistions?

That reminds me... get the block deck heigth to Ford's ABSOLUTE minimum. That'll give you the most compression and still be legal.

You want the compression as high as possible to get you off the line.

Go to the url link in my signature and click on the "Compression Calulator" in the left column. It is preset to a "Stock" 1967 200ci. Change the gasket thickness to a composite gasket (.044" to ,050") and see what happens to the compression.

Change the deck heigth from .025" to a sloppy .035" and again watch the compression drop.

Hope this helps some
Dennis
 
Well there are people here that know alot more than I do bu I'll throw my two cents in anyway, and keep in mind I really don't know your rules.

-Sounds like your working on a cam, but if you are stuck with stock some years and engine sizes are better than others, dennis' book lists the specs.
-Early rods were forged, but you probably don't need that in your RPM range though so I think I'd instead find out what stock rods were the lightest.
-I don't know how "stock" your carb has to be, but a RBS or a 250 carb will flow better than the stock 200 carb. Also can you modify the "stock" carb? A lot can be done to improve flow in a carb, smooth protrutions and irregularities, thin the shaft, get rid of the choke or thin it's shaft, make sure it opens all the way. Get busy on your friends flow bench.
-last but probably most important, do every thing you can to maximize compression. Get rid of that thick head gasket, mill, deck. Find the head with the smallest chamber that works other wise. Flow wise I don't think the D3 head has much if any advantage over the C9-M, so if the C9-M has smaller chambers go that way.

Sounds like fun, good luck!

Dave
 
If allowed (or you can get away with it), you should baffle the oil pan to prevent the oil from running to the back of the pan on acceleration. Add a sheet metal crank windage tray too. That alone could be worth a couple of hp.

Simply cleaning out the casting flash in the intake could be worth some gains as well.

You may be able to pick up some CFM in the carb by massaging that carefully. The air cleaner hold down is a restriction and the booster leg could be slimmed down as well at the throttle shaft and retaining screws. The autolites and carters always have some casting flash and separation marks that could be discretely eliminated.

If you can't change the cam, you might be able to change the cam timing. Not sure which way to go on your car right now, but retarding the cam a degree or two would move the rpm band up.

If you really wanted to get carried away, you could have the rockers remachined to increase the ratio a tad. You might want to at least blueprint them to make sure they are at least 1.50 or more.
 
Howdy again,

Here's a picture of the intake casting flash Jack is talking about. It is VERY difficult to get to, but worth the effort to grind out. This picture is of a rusty log manifold with the top cut off (old project). But you'll be able to see what you are looking for even though this is looking at the flash from the opposite side.

When you have the intake valves removed, stick your middle finger into the bowl area as far as possible feeling the sides of the port. Be careful as the flashing is SHARP! But looking at the picture, you can see why you need to get this intimate with your cylinder head.

Int-casting-flashing-3.jpg


Good luck
Dennis
 
Thanks to everyone for their input. Most of you have identified areas of potential improvement that contravene the rules for Stock Eliminator as defined by the NHRA/IHRA. Modifications designed to enhance airflow are prohibited. Parts that provide durability without being lighter than original are allowed. One area where there is no restriction is cam lobe design as pertains to duration and grind angles. Lift must remain stock and is measured at the valve.

I have not done a great deal of research into the 200 engine family and hoped to get information from the forum with respect to generic parts that are interchangeable such as the rod forgings. The IHRA will allow aftermarket rocker arms including roller rockers. These are not permitted in the NHRA.

Please keep the thoughts flowing as each post has something of value to be sure.
 
I'd definately look at the California head, and see if the EGR could add cfm to the head flow at the carb by scavenging out extra cfm. Sort of like a GMC 6/71 scavenge pump. There may be a way to change its function to augument the total air flow, and then richen up the mixture to suit.

According to Bob Kotmel, an 18R Celica/ Hilux SR5 25 cfm EGR air pump added around 40 HP on a race spec 308 Holden with about flywheel 400 hp at 6000 rpm... like an evacusump system, that primarliy stops ring flutter. You get hp by ensuring ring flutter doesn't happen through the traps, and at upshift points. Blow by can drop about 5 to 10 cfm at 6000 rpm wit a set-up like this. :wink:
 
I know this posting is getting older now, but unless I missed it, nobody answered your forged rod question. The answer is that the factory rods were forged in 200 engines in 1972 and earlier.

Hope this helps.
 
Also, for reasons only known to Ford, they offered many of their inline rods with and without oil spit holes.The better choice for any high performance use would be ones without the spit holes, if this engine falls into that category. There also are many tricks to do to the crank, for huge advantages in performance, that you wont find in the rule books to tell you. Most cranks are probably going to be the same, and one just as good as the next. The only differences being changes in counterweight structure, and maybe fuller counterweights on some throws on one crank than another. The lightest crank being the best one to select. For balancing, one connecting rod has to remain untouched from being ground on, so get about 20-30 rods and sort through to find the lightest one out of the bunch, and make it be the standard to match the other 5 in the engine to.
 
Don't know much about super stock rules, but I would suspect the engine can be modified to manufacturer's factory/blue printed specifications?

For instance I would guess the head intake and exhaust ports are supposed to be a certain volume for a certain stock valve configuration? What stops you cleaning up the ports & bowls then using epoxy to reshape them for better angle of attack?

Can you back cut the valve itself? Can you smooth radius the multi angle cuts?

Does the head benefit from increased redline by reducing the main spring tension and mass then installing inner damper springs? Are the followers the best friction surface finish for the cam lobes?

Just throwing out ideas here.
 
Unlike the Super Stock rules for the cylinder heads, in the Stock class, a die grinder cannot touch any portion of any port or bowl surface for any reason. So that limits any shaping or recontouring to use of epoxy, provided it doesn't make the port volume fall outside its +/- tolerance for cc volume. Technically, the head(s) can't even be sandblasted, because many racers try to do that to camoflage any evidence of grinding and porting to the runners. Even though it isn't widely discussed amongst engine builders in these realms, acid porting is still widely used to "push" the envelope for runner volumes and shaping, and you'll never get anyone to admit it is done, but it is! Its also very difficult to detect, even by the sharpest Tech official....
 
Back then when I had my stock class Maverick, I recall my converter flashed normally at 4200 rpm, just by holding it against the brake.. don't remember if it was TCI or Turbo-Action brand, 8".
One thing I did worked hard at managing during buildup was the rod side clearance and ring seal. Side clearance was around .014 to .016 and could be increased as long as the oil control ring could be kept tight.
For that, I always used a .040 over set of oil rings scrapers, and standard sized wave spring, for my .030 pistons.
Top ring gaps I tried down to .005 in some engines, keeping the engine cool after every pass, all the time to avoid butting ends...
One thing I never did on my C-4's, was to convert them to roller between the drums and at bearing #9..and lowering the line pressure at the regulator inside the valve body. Less pressure, more free HP.
Ricardo
 
...and I always ran the car with the cam advanced 4 deg, trading launch and low end to MPH, but it was done by the 1/5, never really tried going to 2 or even zero degrees..During the course of a year, I went thru Lunati, Cam Dynamics and some other profiles/ brands I can't recall right now.
... also, indexing the plugs gave me a clean, even look on all spark plugs, instead of lean/ rich variances between 2-5 and the rest.
...and......never tested a 2-to-1 collector adapter to convert the header to a 6-to-2-to-1, instead of the regular 6-to-2, expecting mid-range torque increases.
 
I remembered; was it Childs and Albert's that used to make thin rings with spacers for the 5/64" stock ring lands in 3.710" bore for stock pistons?...JE pistons or Ross might also still make them. I suppose the rules still specify stock ring widths, even on forged replacements.
 
You said "in the Stock class, a die grinder cannot touch any portion of any port or bowl surface for any reason." How about extrude hone? Light weight push rods will help with the higher rpm. What valve springs are you running? Bee Hive springs are suppose to help gain top end power.
 
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