DUI hookup

yodabiri

Well-known member
Yesterday my new DUI dizzy finally got delivered! I am sooooo happy! YAY! Its going into my 65 mustang with 200 and 3spd. Anyways i was wondering about the hookup of the dizzy. It seems really staright foreward with the one wire hookup and basically drop in installation. Anyways i was wondering if i would be able to use the voltage line that used to run to the old coil? And if not where exactly can i do the hook up of the dizzy. It says that it needs a direct alternator source (or something of that nature), like from the ignition switch. How do i get at the wires on the ignition switch, do i have to take the instrument panel out? And also one more question, i got 12 guage wire to run between the source and the dizzy, is that fine or do i need something heavier?

Sorry if my questions are really dumb, but i just need to know things like that since i am a newbie at this.


Thank you!
 
12 gauge is plenty of size. 14 looked like the orignal size but its hard to tell sometimes because of the insulation.

The reason there is a note about 'direct' source is that the orignal points style system used a ballast resistor between the key and the coil. On that vintage mustang it was a special pink resistor wire that was between the 8 pin bulkhead connector and the plain red-green stripe wire from the key. If you can find and eliminate that pink wire under the dash you are set. if not you have to get creative and find another way to get key 'on' AND KEY 'cranking' voltage to the dizzy. It is important that it is live during cranking and on otherwise you will be doing a lot of head scratching. On my 66 stang the 'on' terminal is not live durning cranking. Im not sure if this is normal or mine has a bad switch so its worth checking. In the orignal system the cranking voltage bypasses the resistor by coming from I terminal on the solinoid.
 
There is a switched lead coming out of the ignition. I THINK it is the red/green lead. Anyway, I tapped that line for the Pertronix for a switched 12V lead. There could be another from the started solenoid as well since they run off the key. Don't use the radio feed because it goes OFF when the starter is engaged.

Actually, it seems to me that if you can get upstream of the pink resistance wire, just out of the switch, that lead is fine too.
 
I just converted to a DS2 system from points. I had to pull the instrument panel off enough to get at that resistor wire and to get my power to the module and coil. Just take the screws out and unscrew the speedo cable to get the panel to tilt enough out of the way and you can see the top of the ignition switch.
 
I think that pink resistor wire plugs into the lead from the switch and you can stick a barrel plug in there and just tape off the end of the pink wire.

Real men don't need no stinkin' pink wire.
 
Yep, unplug the pink wire from the barrel connector and bypass it by plugging in a new wire using a barrel connector. No need to take apart the dash, just wedge yourself under there on your back with a flashlight and you should be able to find it coming off the ignition switch. On ine the pink section started about three or four inches from the ignition switch.
 
Oh so its that simple? Just diconnect the pink wire on the ignition switch and then hook on a barrel connector to my new wire and plug it into the ignition switch and lead it to the dizzy? I will do this tonight or tomorrow night. I will post pictures of the before and after and report on the changes in the perfromance. I will probably only switch the dizzy for now but when i get a good aircleaner i will switch the carb also to a holley 350 2 barrel. But for now one step at a time. Since i will be only switching the dizzy, should i use ported vacuum or the scv vacuum? Just wondering which one would be better?

Thank you very much for the responses!
 
Thank you very much. I was gonna swap both dizzy and carb at the same time but decided againist because i wanted to do things step by step and notice the improvements. Thank you all very much for the responses!

Thank you!
 
Well i dropped the DUI into the mustang yesteday and my first impression was that it ran much smoother and idled smoother and started very easily. But then i decided to regap the plugs to the specified 0.050 gap. The car still ran smooth, but now has trouble starting up. Also i tried messing around with the timing and now it has the uneven "put put" sound from the tail pipe accompanied by a much more noticeable smell of raw gasoline. Did i overgap the plugs or something? I would have thought it could handle that. But overall the car accelerates much smoother and throttle response is also improved. I cant wait to get my new 2 bbl on there and see what it does.
 
I gapped mine to .055 with no problem. I had to clean and sand mine a bit from my failed attempt with a 2bbl.
Do you have new plugs or old ones?
 
I have my timing set at about 14-15 degrees initial advance at like 600 rpm with the vacuum advance disconected and plugged. I gapped a bit over .050, but not quite .055". It doesn't exactly idle smooth;y, but it never did. However, startup is awesome. And, now it starts up when it's cold outside and idles without any struggles.

I'd recheck the timing, maybe you can use a little more advance to burn all that fuel,
 
I will try and advance the timing just a bit to see if it idles any smoother. Hopefully it will work. The plugs were old ones i had in there before but they were ok. I will try and sand them and see if it affects anything.

Thank you all for your help and i will report back with results.
 
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