As the title suggests I am looking to see if there are any fitment issues on the dual out ebay headers for a 1965 Mustang 200 i6? This is a non AC car with a 3 speed manual. I have read some conflicting info saying you need to move the alternator and get a mini starter. Just want to make sure I have all the right parts before I get to work. Thanks!
All Small Six Ebay Headers Fitment
- Thread starter adamsa87
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
I put one on my 66 Mustang as well with no need to change the starter or do anything with the alternator bracket. I did buy An Amazon heat shield blanket for the starter though. It’s fabric and has a foil side that provides some heat protection for the starter. I put it in with the engine so not swear words were required.
@adamsa87 I am in the midst of my install of the ebay headers right now. I will report back here on the starter fit after I get some time to work on it this weekend. For reference, my car is a '67 Mustang, also with a 3 speed and no power steering or AC.
I can't see why the alternator would need to be moved.
I will say that the mounting holes in the flange don't line up perfectly on my header - all but one will fit but the final one requires a 5/16 adapter stud or enlarging the hole. I was personally not happy with the orientation of the two downtubes that mount to the header outlets, so I cut them up and rewelded them to a Y pipe using two flex pipe pieces. If you are doing a dual exhaust, they are probably fine. The headers and downpipes are real stainless steel, and probably 304 or at least 201 since a strong magnet won't stick to them. The flanges at the head and at the downpipes are not. Well, maybe they are 409—a magnet sticks like glue.
I can't see why the alternator would need to be moved.
I will say that the mounting holes in the flange don't line up perfectly on my header - all but one will fit but the final one requires a 5/16 adapter stud or enlarging the hole. I was personally not happy with the orientation of the two downtubes that mount to the header outlets, so I cut them up and rewelded them to a Y pipe using two flex pipe pieces. If you are doing a dual exhaust, they are probably fine. The headers and downpipes are real stainless steel, and probably 304 or at least 201 since a strong magnet won't stick to them. The flanges at the head and at the downpipes are not. Well, maybe they are 409—a magnet sticks like glue.
I actually got time to test fit the stock starter with the eBay header today. The good news is that it doesn't hit. The bad news is that there is maybe 3/16" clearance between the closest tube and the plunger cover. The cover is removable, and there is some clearance between it and the plunger inside, so I'm going to do a little persuading on the cover with a body hammer. Even with a little modification, it looks like a starter shield would directly contact the header. I moved the phone up and down and took this photo when the space between the two looked the largest:
Thank you! I appreciate the pictures for reference.
If you test fit the two pipes loosely, you'll see which setup best fits your car. In my '67 Mustang, the longer pipe fit best to the shorter header, and vice versa. I ended up cutting and welding the pipes to custom lengths/bends to mate to a 2-into-1 Y pipe that I used before going to a single 2.5" pipe the rest of the way.
