EFI xf won't start

[Anonymous]

The guy I bought this car off said that his mate was driving the car around with the S tube off at the aircleaner, didn't notice it, and was revving it flat to keep going, eventually the car broke down. Would there be anything there that would cause the car not to start? Turns over ok, fuel pump is all working ok, haven't had time to check spark yet, but thinking maybe it is something to do with vane meter. Any Ideas?

Cheers,

Falconhell

 

[Anonymous]

Checked it out, no spark at coil, has power to it though. Can I use a coil from carb model or do it need to be an efi component? As I said before, just to get it off the street!!

Cheers

 

[addo]

Check the coil! Got continuity both sides (primary and secondary)?

If it's the Bosch style ignition, maybe the module has died.

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Checked coil connections with mulitleter, both terminals had 12V. is this right? it's an 85 spak, not sure what ign. it uses.

 

[addo]

You're not looking for voltage, although that sounds odd! It's a Bosch module type, then.

Disconnect the coil wires. Check the resistance from the HT lead connection to ground (should be in the K's), and check the resistance between both of the screw terminals (much lower). If all that's OK, check your grounding from the coil body to the engine block.

Try swapping in a known good module. It's under the screw-on cover on the side of the distributor. There's silicon heat transfer grease under it, which should be replaced by now anyway. Buy a little tube of the "Unick" brand stuff. I am thinking the module is the culprit. When they die, you notice that as the ignition switches on, there is a weak spark from the coil lead, then nothing. Sound familiar?

A new module is about $70-75. They can be snaffled from any mid-80s car with a Bosch dizzy - go prowling the Corollas, Camrys, Falcons, Commies...

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Checked HT connection, measured at 7.41 (should be 6 something max according to gregorys) no measurement between screw terminals at all. Double checked voltage, and it is current at both terminals. Body grounding seems fine. Coil? Does it need to be an efi unit?

Cheers

Damn efi

 

[addo]

Sounds like your low tension is blown on the coil. Check another coil. If you use a non electronic coil (like off an XC or earlier), you need a resistor in series with the positive. The HT resistance sounds fine, BTW.

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Changed coil for known working coil off my old xf engine, still exactly the same thing happening, no spark, voltage at both screw terminals. this car is running lpg also so there is about 6 different relays and 20 ft of wiring on top of whats already there. talk about needle in a haystack. When I was testing the coil for spark, it would give 1 orange coloured spark as soon as I stopped cranking. this happens with both coils. Any Ideas?

Cheers,

Brad.

 

[addo]

Dead module.

 

[Anonymous]

why would the coil produce no spark? isnt this inline before the dizzy?

 

[Anonymous]

The module is the switch that interups the power flow through the coil to generate the high voltage spark.
Noel

 

[Anonymous]

OK, so I got a module from the wreckers, put it in, the gas solenoid is now working where it wasnt before, try to start car, no go, check dizzy, ok, check spark at plugleads, nothing, check spark at coil, nothing.

Dogdy module or something else?

Is there any way to check the module?

Multimeter or maybe ecu service codes?

Cheers,

Brad

 

[Anonymous]

what happens if you hotwire the coil?

 

[Anonymous]

Will it run If I hot wire the coil? Won't be able to work on it now til sat or sunday, so I will have to get back to you.

Cheers,

Brad.