engine assembly questions

[barroom hero]

got my engine back from the shop, gonna hopefuly get it in the car soon. if i can take a day off of school or get a free day soon. got a few questions. first off, i need to put everything back together, and get all the missing parts for my tranny (clutch and all that good stuff that goes inside the bellhousing), what would be the best manual to get for this? ive seen and engine assembly manual, but would that show all of the tranny parts? or shoud i get the full shop manual or what?
secondly, is there any thing i need to do with the engine while it is just on the engine stand in my garage? have it covered in a bag, but do i need to turn it over to prevent it from being froze up, or any thing to do wheather wise, its getting cold*(50's in texas is cold thank you) and just dont want to damage anything before i get it in the car.
finally, when putting the engine in, what is the best way to do this? will i have to take the head off?

thanks guys.

 

[Anonymous]

hi there

i actually just got my 200 running last week. it was my first engine build too. i figure other people on this site have much more experience, but i'll try to answer some of your questions.

definitely keep the engine covered up with a trash bag when you're not working on it. always put all the parts on a clean surface or on paper towels (lint free if you can). it's good to keep stuff oiled so there's no rust. i rebuilt my C4 tranny, Haynes has a book on automatic transmssions. For a manual tranny, i figure the shop manual is the best bet. i got a shop manual for my 66 mustang from Johns Mustang on the web. I think it's www.johnsmustang.com
It shows everything. the problem is that a lot of the time is talks about special tools that it gives by number and usually you can do without it.

I got the engine and transmission in as one piece without taking the head off the engine. it might not be the best way but it worked. it was nice to have the whole engine in one piece and painted before i put it in. it's quite easy to get the balancer on and to torque all the bolts down.

i live in san diego and I have a feeling that people from higher latitudes would not consider our 50 degrees to be cold. i doubt that will cause you any problems.

 

[rbohm]

8) did you get an assembled short block back, or a bare block? if an assembled short block, then check everything over carefully to insure that all bolts are tightened to proper spec. you should also check bearing clearances as well. a little plastigauge does the job nicely. also put some assembly lube on the cylinder walls and crank journals and bearings.

if you got a bare block, then the very first thing you need to do after getting it on the stand is give it a thorough cleaning with soap and warm water. you want to be abloe to run an oil soaked white cloth over the machined surfaces and pick up NO dirt. at this point you then want to wash all internal components as well. cover the cylinder bores with a liberal amount of assembly lube. hit the rest of the machined surfaces with WD-40 to help prevent rust. use plenty of a good assembly lube when installing parts. when installing the new cam, coat the bearing journals with assembly lube, and the cam lobes with a good cam lube, again dont skimp here. coat the bottom of the lifters with cam lube, and the sides with assembly lube. when you stop working on the engine, cover the assembly with large trash bags, remembering to put a dessicant packet in the bag to absorb moisture, and seal the bag to the engine stand.

 

[barroom hero]

evren, thanks for the advice, i live in houston, i think near johns mustang, so ill have to stop by there this weekend. how did you get the engine in? did you use a load levler, and if so whered you bolt the chains onto? any help is greatly apreciated. just to make sure, the shop manual has al the torque specs for the engine assembly right?

rbohm, i got an assembled short block 8) . thanks for the info.

 

[MandarinaRacing]

barroom hero, I would actually use motor oil instead of WD-40 ...it tends to evaporate quickly.....

Alex

 

[rbohm]

8) alex that is true that WD-40 does evaporate quicker, but that makes the gasket surfaces easier to clean than it would be with motor oil.