Engine Dies

[Titleist16]

I noticed when I have my car in drive and put the turn signal on my car wants to do die or if it is cold out like early in the morning or late at night it wants to do die. Actually when it's cold outside it wants to die when ever I come to a stop. I noticed that my amp gauge goes back and forth when I have the turn signal on too. What could be causing this? I am going to pick up the core engine for my rebuild in two weeks would this be a good time to convert to an alternator?

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Absolutely go to an alternator. I kept thinking while reading your post that you need to increase your idle speed, to increase you output. Then I read the part about switching. The main reason for going to alternators was to provide more voltage at low RPMs. For now, try increasing your idle a bit.

 

[Anonymous]

add more choke and more idle

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Careful with the choke. You say you have probs when cold outside, but not necessarily when the engine is cold. Which is it? If you richen the choke a bit, make sure it opens completely when the engine is warm. You actually could have a choke that's not opening all the way.

One other thing. Better spark can't hurt. Switch to electronic ignition. The easiest is the Pertronix, but others will argue for the Duraspark out of a later model.

By the way, when posting probs, it's always a good idea to tell what year car/engine/tranny you have.

 

[Anonymous]

Make sure your electrical connections are good and the grounds are clean.
Doug

 

[Titleist16]

What are all of the parts I will need to switch from a generator to alternator?

 

[Asa]

but others will argue for the Duraspark out of a later model.

i won't, cause it wouldn't work
unless i misread something from his past posts, he's got a '62 Falcon, and the DSII only swaps back as far as '66 i believe

 

[BIGREDRASA]

but others will argue for the Duraspark out of a later model.

i won't, cause it wouldn't work
unless i misread something from his past posts, he's got a '62 Falcon, and the DSII only swaps back as far as '66 i believe

That's danwagon with the 62. In any case, you're right about the dizzy. Whatever year, he has a generator, which makes his car a '63 or older, and therefore has the small dizzy shaft hole.

 

[Asa]

my apologies, that's a Comet he has

There is some pust under the window ledge of the rear windows on my 62 Comet. There is some chrome trim around the windows and I need to know how to get it off so I can get it there with a disc grinder. Thanks.

Also, on an unrelated subject, there is a big plastic piece that it stapled on to and aluminium piece behind the rear bumper. A piece of it broke off and I was wondering if the plastic is really needed or should I not worry about it. Thanks.

 

[Lazy JW]

but others will argue for the Duraspark out of a later model.

i won't, cause it wouldn't work
unless i misread something from his past posts, he's got a '62 Falcon, and the DSII only swaps back as far as '66 i believe

That's danwagon with the 62. In any case, you're right about the dizzy. Whatever year, he has a generator, which makes his car a '63 or older, and therefore has the small dizzy shaft hole.

This would be an ideal situation to use the MSD triggered by the breaker points 8) You could hide the MSD box under the dash and have 'stealth' ignition.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

1-Proper idle speed and choke settings should take care of most of your cool weather and electrical problems. Although those early models are a bit problematic in the choke area--my 62 has a manual choke and i pull it back out at every light and stop sign till it gets really well warmed up. Also turn signals do suck a lot of juice but with the proper idle speed it shouldn't kill the engine, but a generator at low speed will likely show discharge during operation. Especially if the flasher unit is real old and the grounds arn't real good. You said you are picking up an engine core to rebuild- that engine will determine whether you can go Dura spark or not.
2-Upgrading to an alternator is always a pretty good idea if you are after function over original equipment authenticity.
3- I use a 1 wire hot rod alternator on my 57 ford farm tractor and it has become so much more liveable with tons less wireing.Will probally go this route on my Falcon also.

 

[Titleist16]

I read about using a 3 wire alternator which sounds good. This way it will still operate the warning light on my dash. I have a 62 Comet but the engine in it now is a 66 block with a 69 head. The engine I will be getting is a 79 engine. I have upgraded to the Pertronix and I think I have an Autolite 1100. Does anybody have any pics of the Autolite 1100 so I can make sure that's what I have? When switching to an alternator do you need to buy a new voltage regulator? What are all the parts I will need to do the swap?

 

[Anonymous]

Most of the newer alt's have the regulator built in if you use a model with an external reg just get everything from the same junk yard vehicle.-- that is the joy of the 1 wire alternator -crank it, up wait a second then rev it to get the exciter excited and go. 1 wire from the aternator to the battery--talk about "painless" wireing and can be gotten in chrome