engine rebuild, need lots of help

[mysavioreigns]

Well it seems my 6 has reached the end of its life. I called a guy nearby, and he has three 200s. One is IN the car, connected to the tranny, and runs. It probably doesn't run that well though, as it's just kinda been sitting. It was in a wrecked car.

Second one is stored, and also connected to the transmission. Don't know anything about this one.

Third is just a bare block. I don't know if it includes the head, or what. I just know it is a bare block, that I believe has been bored.

I can go 2 routes - 1) build up an engine, and drop it in, or 2) put one of those in, take mine, and rebuild it, and put it back in.

I've never built an engine, and I don't plan on doing it, because I lack the tools, and probably the knowledge of how things are done. I can put stuff together, but this is an engine we're talking about. I called one shop, and he quoted me $80/hour for labor.

So, should I buy the parts from classicinlines.com and have the builder just put them in, or should I allow him to get the parts? I think he might be able to use some of the parts already there, but I would feel better using new ones.

Any help is appreciated, there will be lots of questions to come!

 

[fordconvert]

I dont remember what your problem was so maybe this wont apply to yours if you have a rod stuck through the side of the block or something but the only special tools it takes to pull a motor is the space and a hoist. The rest are fairly normal sockets and wrenches and such. Is this your daily driver? IT doesnt sound like either of the motors you are looking at would be good to go as is. I would say yank your motor and get it apart enough to see what the bores are like and what size they are. My motor turned out to have 60 over pistons in it already which pretty much means it cant be done again (at least cheap, nothing is impossible if you have the cash). Everything looked pretty good on the bottom so I just ended up having the head redone and putting it all back together with new gaskets and seals. I ended up buying 2 other motors that turned out to not be worth working on but one had a good looking cam so I also put that in with new lifters. I think the whole project cost me around $1000. Almost 1/2 that was to the machine shop for the head work, lifters, and gasket set. The rest was buyin the other 2 motors and the little misc stuff like hoses and an engine work stand.

 

[Lazy JW]

What Tj said.
Once the engine is out, all of the tools really needed to do the job will fit in a small toolbox that can easily be carried with one hand. Most of us truly do not "overhaul" our own engines; we pull the engine, dismantle, inspect, clean, and take the major parts to a machinist to do the actual work (and hot tanking). Then we re-inspect, re-assemble, and re-install.

Special tools required are a good torque wrench and a ring compressor, also some taps for cleaning out threads.

We all had to start someplace. I say go for it!
Joe

 

[mysavioreigns]

Thanks TJ, Lazy JW,

Well I have space, and I can get a hoist w/o a problem. The problem is that this is my daily driver, and the ones I'm looking at buying are *hopefully* okay to rebuild, then drop in my car. I thought for rebuilding an engine you need a ton of tools? Guess I was wrong. I knew about the ring compressor and the torque wrench. Didn’t think of the threads, so I could get some of those. I was told by a friend of mine you needed like micrometers, a press (to get something in there real tight), the ring compressors, and more. Stuff that a shop would have, but not me particularly. If it is easy to re-assemble, then I could definitely do that and save some money (I’m in my last year of college…saving money helps). I know a lot about the inner workings engines, but I’ve never actually gone inside. I guess there’s always a first for everything, huh?

So do you guys think I should get a couple of those engines (and a trans) and have them re-machined and stuff, then rebuild them? I think that is more manageable.

Any good books out there about this? I already have a book about cooling, fuel, air, etc. into engines, but it’s really more how stuff works, and not how it goes together.
Anything I should look for when I go to look at those engines?

Thanks again

 

[wallaka]

Get a shop manual. A real one, not Chitlins or Haynes. I got the 1965 Ford shop manual for Mustang, Falcon, Comet and Fairlane for $35 off of ebay.

It has everything you will ever need, this is what the dealership mechanics had back then.

 

[addo]

My experiences with external services have not always been positive. Many times, I've gone the DIY route simply because another person could either not be trusted, or charged some really ridiculous amount of money, equating to over $500/day.

If you're not sure that this tech is the right person to take on the rebuild, then maybe talk it through with them; never force a job on someone...

 

[Lazy JW]

Since it is your daily driver then definitely buy another engine, do the rebuild, then swap the fresh long block in on a weekend. Preferably a long weekend.

The machine shop will have micrometers, and this really isn't the time/place for you to learn to use them anyway. They will take care of grinding the crank, boring/honing the block, and fitting the pistons. Also the head work.

One thing I absolutely insist on is assembling the crank/mains & rod bearings myself, checking each and every one with Plastigauge®. Been burned there before with a crank that had one rod journal smaller than the rest This isn't difficult to accomplish, just takes a bit longer. When all the main bearings are properly torqued and before the rods are assembled, the cranshaft absolutely MUST rotate freely. Then you can proceed with confidence 8)
Have fun,
Joe

 

[mysavioreigns]

Oh I know how to use micrometers, depth gauges, calipers, etc. I had to do that last year quite a bit. That doesn't mean I like to

Alright, I'll have them do that, and I'll try to get me a good torque wrench. Right now I have one from Harbor Freight, and it's crap, but it did a job one time, and for $14 you can't beat that.

How do I know what size pistons, valves, etc. I need to buy? I assume the pistons will be larger because it will be honed, but I don't know how big they will need to be honed. I guess that is for the machinist to tell me? Thanks

 

[Lazy JW]

... I guess that is for the machinist to tell me? Thanks

Yup

 

[fordconvert]

The only good thing about a $14 torque wrench is that it already has a long handle so you dont have to look for a hunk of pipe to snap off bolts or break a regular ratchet.

 

[mysavioreigns]

haha, yep. Basically, a $14 heavy pipe.

 

[matt1967]

not if you have calibration checked b4 you use it. and as with ANY clicker torque wrench zero them out, b4 putting away, otherwise there calibration will be off. When I rebuilt my '67 200, I used a 1978 Motors manual, and a 1974 Motors manual.