Engine Rebuild Plan

[Anonymous]

I posted something similar to this last year, but never got the project completed. I would appreciate any suggestions from the experts. I am rebuilding a 200 out of a 66 convertible. I am shopping for a post '78 head and plan on doing the following

1. Install a 260 Cam
2. Shave the head .060”
3. Deck the block for true.
4. Install Moly type rings on the pistons.
5. 3 angle valve job
6. Backcut intake valves.
7. Pocket port intakes
8. Port the exhaust
9. Install exhaust divider
10. Polish the head.
12. Inc. opening in log to match the carb (Weber DGV 2B)

I am considering Headers but am not sure at this time. I am only working on the engine at this time. This will be an almost daily driver car for my wife. I am looking for a little extra power, but need reliability also. All electrical, timing upgrades to follow. Does anyone see a problem with this plan or something I am missing? I appreciate the time you guys (gals?) put into this forum and it is priceless for us newbies.

thanks again.

Bob

 

[ruckus68]

have the block 0 decked as well it will also help increase the c/r. you might want to change to smaller dish pistons or flat top pistons while your at it.

do you have a copy of the ford falcon six cylinder performance handbook if not i suggest you pick one up. it is great to have and will give you lots of info. I think there is a link to it on this site somewhere.
http://falconperformance.sundog.net/



cheers
john

 

[rbohm]

8) i would suggest that instead of decking the block or milling the head, use the 255 V8 piston as the compression hieght is higher than the 200 piston. that way you dont run into problems with thin decks, head bolts ending up too long.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi AZConvertible,

Like your list. Very well thought out. A couple of comments.

1. Your list tells me you have thought about compression ratios. If you simply true the block, use stock piston (with 7cc dish), and mill the late head .060 you should end at about 8.5 to 8.8. This asumes a typical / original 200 deck height of .030 shaved .015 and a late style head gasket (.045 installed). If you go with the flat top piston you may want to re-think the mill value. As a daily driver I would rcommend CR of 9 as the outside number. Should give you good performance with the 260 cam and run well on pump gas. Do not use the 255 V8 pistons in a 200. This is a useful exercise in a 250 if you are careful about the rest of the process as the 250 has a stock deck height of .120-.150. The V8 piston will rise .085 higher in the bore. In a 250 this will leave a deck of .035-.065 to work with. In the 200, this much rise will push the piston above the deck. Not useful.

2. With the mods you are planning a header is almost a requirement. I assume you are hesitant on the header given the planned use for the car. Headers do not have to be loud. A Clifford 6x1 can be put through a number of muffler types. A stock V8 muffler with the single outlet would probably work quite well.

3. The carb uggrade you are planning will require a dizzy upgrade as well. The dual vac dizzy that came on the 66 car won't work properly with anything other than the 1100. You can use the 68-73 dual advance dizzy with points (a stock set-up) if you like. If you want to go electronic (highly recommended with your set-up), you can use the dual vac with a Pertronx II or the Duraspark II (1978 250CI set up is recommended). I recommend the dual vac with the PII and a convertion to a mechanical only advance for many reasons. I would be happy to proved details on this VERY EASY conversion if you like. Just PM me.

Good luck. I really like the plan - Steve.

 

[Anonymous]

Steve:

I am concerned with compression ratios. I was hoping for 9.0. I am going with the electric PII upgrade when I get the engine back. You can be sure I will have questions then. As for the Headers, my only concern is with the A/C clearance. I will be adding aftermarket A/C ASAP and that is more of a priority than the headers. I spoke to AZCOUPE and he gave me ideas for creating the clearance I need though. DO you feel the dual timeing chain would be any benefit? It is fairly inexpensive to buy, but will it cause me any issues with clearances? I am hoping to have engine project completed next week.

Thanks

Bob

 

[addo]

The dual roller timing set is completely inside the timing cover with no mods to fit. It is well worth the money.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Bob and All:

Given your daily driver goal and your locale (hot and dry), I'd highly recommend sticking with the small dish pistons. They are cheaper, more knock resistant and, all else being equal, will make more power than a flat-topped piston. As long as you're polishing the chambers, you might as well polish the piston tops too.

Will you be using a composite type head gasket or a steel shim type?

Personally, I'd save the expense of the double roller timing set and instead put the money into a good balance job. In your case the advantage of the double roller timing set would be longivity.

With this much machining, but sure to use hardened washers on the head bolts on assembly, be sure to recheck the oil transfer channel in the head deck surface to maintain at least stock depth. If you're using a composite head gasket this won't be a problem. Clean the rocker assembly thoroughly be for reinstalling. It is cheap insurance to ream the oil access holes on each rocker out to 1/8". The '78 rocker oil holes will already be at this dimension, but the '66 will be a tight 3/32".

I'm with Steve on the headers. AZmike or Jack have posted about a way to offset the AC pump to clear the headers. Consider having the headers coated before installing. I used HPC coating and am very satisfied. Under hood heat is lower than with a stock log manifold.

Since you are planning on AC consider using a water pump from a '78 or later 200, with AC. These later AC pumps give higher flow. You may have to use all the matching pulley to avoid alignment problems.

Finally, have you run variables on the compression calculator on our website. If not you should. Given your list, 9:1 should be no problem.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

I'm in the same boat as azconvertable in some respects. I am rebuilding a 66 coupe in the hot AZ desert as well. I want it to be a daily driver and am focusing on efficiency because I drive 30 each way to work. I'm a newbie as well but must be much more of a newbie than most because I don't really get much of what was written here. I did pick up the ford falcon six cylinder performance handbook and I learned a lot. It seemed to focus more on performance. I really could use some guidance even if it's just pointing out more reading material.
Sorry, I know I didn't contribute anything to this post but I really need to be pointed in the right direction.

Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

First I want to thank everyone for the input. Based on the posts, I have made a few modifications to the rebuild plan. I could probably spend another year making sure every possible idea was considered. It is time for me to get off the pot and go with my plan. I can always make adjustments later. My problem is that I get so wrapped-up in the big picture that I fail to take the first step. NO MORE. As of now, the rebuild process is underway.

As to benhur, don't get frustrated. I had never attempted anything like this before either. I read everything I could find on the net. I also bought the Falcon Rebuild book. There are tons of websites dedicated to rebuilding the sixes. I would suggest getting a good Mustang manual. I pulled the engine out of my car in a few hours just following the book.

If you are interested, I have a list of websites that I frequently use that I can pass on. As for the terminology, when I came across a concept or word I was confused about, I would research the web first and then post questions on this website. It has been my experience that we have experts(many) and novices(myself) on this board. Most members think of their Mustangs as their kids (and have you met any parent who does not want to talk about and share info on the kid?)

Good Luck and don't be shy about your questions.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the encouragement Bob. I'm looking forward to getting to work on my engine. I know it's going to take some time learning and planning this project. At times it can be frustrating, being new to this. I am very interested in the list of websites that you frequently use. I'm sure it will help me with researching what I need to do.

Thanks and good luck with your project!

Gabe