Exhaust Port Divider

[Anonymous]

im looking for an exhaust port divider...i pulled my headers off and it looks like i chipped it or sumtin...

so anyways im looking for another one for my 250

can anybody help....i was trying to look at Mike's page but i couldnt find one



sorry im not on here more...school is keeping me really busy

 

[Anonymous]

http://cliffordperformance.net/Merc...re_Code=CP&Product_Code=7CPD&Category_Code=F2


its supposed to look like that

 

[LaGrasta]

So what's the deal with these? I hear they make no difference from some and they do from others. ARe they really needed?

 

[ludwig]

Try California Mustangs as a source.

 

[addo]

I'm in the first camp.

 

[rickwrench]

There was going to be a test a few years ago, with bragging rights assigned...

I'm with Addo if a stock manifold is used, not much, if any, difference.
However, if headers are used, I am a firm believer that there would be a significant difference in flow.
Rick(wrench)

 

[Anonymous]

However, if headers are used, I am a firm believer that there would be a significant difference in flow.

Especially with dual outlet headers.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks guys

i have the dual outlet headers on my granada

the difference is supposed to be it cuts down on turbulence between the # 3 and 4 exhaust chambers....so by putting in the exhaust port divider they advertise a 10% increase in power because the exhaust gases scavenge quicker i belive because there is less turbulence


hows that sound?

 

[Anonymous]

my next question

how do you guys get the exhaust port divider to stay in? i had to kinda "tap" mine in with a hammer before
not exactly the best way


wht do you's suggest?

 

[Anonymous]

two way I have seen here

high temp epxoy (dont remember the name of the one people used)
or tack weld

 

[ludwig]

You have to grind it somewhat to fit in the hole. Trial and adjust, took about 15 minutes. I had a guy locally weld it in place. He ground off a wedge at the outside edges and at the center divider and used the void for his bed weld. Nice and tight. Others have used high-tempurature epoxy.

 

[Anonymous]

did the welds hold?

do you's know wht the divider is made of?

just curious so i can ask someone to weld it for me..being as i have no welder

 

[ludwig]

My welder said he would guarantee it about 15 seconds due to the different ages of the metals. It is solid now for two or more years.
The object is made of cast something, was it brass or iron? I forget.

 

[Anonymous]

it is not brass. It is iron or a steel. I tig welded mine in without any problems. I just put the head in an oven brought the temp up, welded it then put it back in an oven to let it cool down slower so it would not crack. The preheat and post heat are critical when welding on cast iron so that it does not crack. I'm a welder and I am currently working on my welding engineering degree so I have access to a large rod oven to do this. If u don't I would suggest heating up the head with a an oxy acetylene torch with a rose bud tip and then weld it, finally have a bin with sand in the bottom and put the head in and cover with more sand to help the head cool slowly and evenly. I know this sounds a little extreme, but if u want to protect ur head from cracks then that is how to do it

 

[Anonymous]

your idea sounds great
except that the head is on my car..i pulled the headers because they were leaking and the port divider came out when i did...so now i have to figure the best way to put it back in


thanks for everyones help though

 

[Anonymous]

Have headers , took mine out, never noticed a difference, except no more ratteling noise.

 

[Anonymous]

your idea sounds great
except that the head is on my car..i pulled the headers because they were leaking and the port divider came out when i did...so now i have to figure the best way to put it back in


thanks for everyones help though

if u tack weld it in and u have no way of pre and post heating then just do one maybe two tack welds at a time and take a ball/peen hammer and using the peening end tap firmly but gently all around the welded area in order to relieve the stress from rapid heating and cooling. Whatever u do not by anymeans try to cool it by misting it with water. Just peen it for a cple of minutes and it should be ok. If u have access to a TIG welder that is the process I would use to do this, with nickel filler rod. It is a clean process and will leave absolutely no spatter in ur exhaust port and exhaust flange. This is how I did mine and it worked perfectly.

 

[powerband]

The instructions with the Hooker Header / Holley Prod. "installation kit" said to grind edges to fit snug but provide for an interference fit with the header flange.

I did this with one head and it worked OK but I had some minimal leakage around the 3/4 flange area. On another head I had extensive machine work and let the machinist weld it in. He ran continuous beads along the edge running from outer to inner port.
The interference fit is a reasonable alternative for an installed head but it will be difficult to see what you are doing due to the ports angle hiding under the intake log. Also the shock towers, starter...-

Powerband

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Powerband
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