Fairmont/ Carter YF, Please Help!

[Anonymous]

long story short. I got a 1981 Ford Fairmont 6-200 from a friend who was moving. It is a project I am putting back together just to drive for now (lacking funds to do more). It looks like he got as far as ripping out the emissions parts and leaving some other non emissions hoses unhooked. Detached parts are in boxes that are with the car.

So to make things simple/ cost effective I would rather not put anything emissions wise back on but I need some help. I don't know where some of this stuff goes. I am learning my way threw cars but I am not an expert.

CARB
I bought a Rebuilt Carter YF w/ electric choke from some recommendations. It did not come with any paper work so I dont know whats what. There are 5 "ports" on the carb. (bolted in place.. ) 3 on the passenger side (bottom to top 1,2,3), 1 is on the front of the car (4) and one on the drivers side (5):

Looking at a few manuals online I think #2 goes to the distributor?
As far as everything else, I don't know.


Vacuum Points
To make things simple I'll letter and number all the connection points:

Firewall TEE (A B C):

Intake Manifold TEE (where brake booster connects to manifold): D E F (I think they all are the same but just incase

* I am in need of this piece (Manifold Tee) along with the line & hose to the brake booster. Anyone who has this part for sale please let me know. The one I have is bent and wont take the booster line.


Hoses:

Trans modulator (6)

I was told this line coming from the transmission needs to go the vacuum source on the carb or manifold. Not sure where though.


2 hoses that come out of P/S Fender.

One says vapor (7). I was told to leave that one open. The other one ( 8 ) I was told may go to the vacuum tee on the firewall or get blocked off.

Hose Comming Out of A/C

Its not the Drain because thats lower down the firewall. No one has explained where this goes or what it does.

MISC
Lastly what do I do with the ports on the carb, intake/ firewall tee's that are not used block them?

I am having a bit of trouble getting the exhaust manifold out without a cherry picker. The one last bolt I need to get too is next to the A/C cube near the radiator. Any suggestions without disconnecting A/C?

The EGR to the manifold is on upside down and it looks like its blocking it off but would you suggest making a plate for it and using that instead?

I will wait to get these mile stones out of the way to worry about anything else. Thank you for your help. ~Frank Stupak

 

[fordconvert]

My thoughts based on not much........

Carb

1 should be manifold vac
2 & 3 should be a ported source maybe for dizzy or egr
4 & 5 should be some sort of vent maybe to charcoal canister?

Lines

The firewall thing looks like a distribution block.
All 3 fittings on the T should be the same unless its a temp switch in the coolant?
6 transmission line goes to a manifold source.
7 & or 8 maybe the vent for the fuel tank and or charcoal canister?
10 would be to run the air doors for the heat/ac/defroster goes to manifold source.

Other stuff that would have been on there:
EFE heat riser valve in exhaust?
Temp controled switch to switch dizzy bewteen manifold and ported vac?
Some sort of valve in air cleaner snorkel to suck hot air off the exhaust manidold that may have had various temp sensors in the line.
Some sort of controls for the charcoal canister (my 78 cadillac had 5 hoses going to the canister) .

Many public libraries have free access to alldata which is the manual software that shops use. They go back to 81 so for the price of copies you should be able to print off the vac diagrams to figure things out.

 

[Anonymous]

I have vacuum Diagrams but they are useless to me. Its for use the Holley 1946 carbs and not the Carter YFs, It also only shows me the vapor(?) hoses going to the gas tank (FUEL T). None of the other hoses go anywhere but in circles or to the air cleaner check valve (A/CL CV) or PCV. All the diagrams I have are all exactly the same (Hood decal, Haynes, Chilton, Ford Shop Manual, Claymer Shop Manual, Ebay Vacuum Diagrams....). Maybe it can be helpful to someone here.

The emissions parts I do have that are in boxes are dry rotted, filled with oil, broken beyond glue.... It would be useless to put them back on. So to save the trouble and save the cost (totaled from Ford/ Ebay NOS parts is over $400) I am trying to work around them.

The only 2 pictures I have to work with are not detailed and I do not know the owners, but they do tell me its possible.

 

[Anonymous]

zsgfd

 

[fordconvert]

Dang thats like reading the personal ads or looking for an appartment with all those letters. The VCVs would be temp controled valves or switches. Some of the other stuff I have no idea what it stands for. Is there a list somewhere?

 

[JT81stang]

I'll try to clear up some of the hose locations:

First, the tranny modulator hose is to go to the vacuum tee on the firewall, plug it into port 'C'. The tranny needs vacuum to shift properly.

The hose for the A/C plug into port 'B' on the vacuum tee.

Run a hose from the vacuum port on the intake in front of the carb. to port 'A' on the tee.

Look at the photo you supplied of the blue engine compartment - you'll see the tee has two vacuum lines - one goes to the tranny modulator & the other goes in front of the carb to a vacum port on the intake. Do yours like that.

The reason your A/C goes to the tee also is - it's to operate your vent doors inside the car. All A/C equipped cars operate the vent & defrost door via vacuum. Now most likely you have a vacuum cannister inside the pass. fender that has been disconnected because it leaks (because of age)
That's why that hose on the fender (the one you marked number eight) is plugged.
So by putting the A/C hose into the vacuum tee you are bypassing the vacuum canister & your defrost & vent doors will still work.

The reason I know all this is because I had a 1980 Capri with a 200 and A/C. I removed the A/C (didn't work) and my cannister leaked.


The only ports on the carb. you'll need is #1 which goes to your distributor for the vacuum advance.
And #2 for your electric choke to work.
The rest of them you can plug since you are not running any emissions crap.

I hope this info helps

John