mysavioreigns":2o4zu5ur said:...
Another thing is, if I'm removing that "spacer" that "heats the air" coming in, what can I do to plug those hoses?
A short piece of 3/8" threaded galvanized pipe (like a 4" nipple) is VERY handy for connecting the heater hoses when you bypass the carb heater plate. If you plug them, you'll lose your heater.
On the vacuum line routing, here's what I did:

On which source of vacuum to use, everybody has an opinion. I like straight manifold vacuum, but some engines may like ported better. Whichever one you use, just cap off the others or you'll have leaks galore.
At any rate, the ONLY difference between one and the other is that at idle, the ported vacuum will be 0, and manifold vacuum will be 15+ inches. Once you crack the throttle open, both sources will be identical.
Since you set the timing with the vacuum disconnected, the only functional difference is that an engine with ported vacuum won't have as much advance at idle, will idle slower and have hotter combustion temps (the emissions reason the factory used ported vacuum). An engine using straight manifold vacuum will have more advance at idle, will idle faster (until you reset the carb idle screw) and will have lower combustion temps. In either case, idle speed differences are then adjusted with the carb idle speed screw.
(SOME engines may 'feel' more powerful with ported vacuum, as the additional advance comes in as the throttle is opened, giving a slight 'boost'. It's not that the engine is actually more powerful, it's just that the timing advance is coming into play.)