Finally finished rebuild and engine won't start :-(

[Anonymous]

Well I got the engine and tranny all back in and ready to go and it won't even turn over. I have 2 problems for sure. First is one I had before the rebuild. I turn the key to on and the solenoid activitates and won't stop till I turn the key to off. I replaced the starter, solenoid, and alternator they are all new. 2nd is the solenoid is making a loud buzzing noise when you turn the key and the starter isn't even making a clicking sound at all. I am running a 10:1 compression ratio. Would this cause the engine not to turn over. One thing I noticed before i put the engine back in is I couldn't turn it over by hand any more. does this mean I some how locked the engine up. I figured it would be pretty tight after the rebuild but I wasn't expecting this. Any help would help immensely. Thanks.

David

 

[Anonymous]

Are you using a new battery ? I couldn`t turn my 250 over by hand when it ran I had to use a breaker bar or rachet (wichever was closest)...

 

[Rustang Racer]

Check the wiring. On the solenoid there are two terminals with the lighter gauge wires connected to them. The terminal on the left should only have power when the key is turned to START. It should not have power when the key is turned to ON. Other than that, I would think the solenoid is bad but you said you already replaced that.

 

[Anonymous]

yes, it is the 2nd solenoid I have tried.

 

[Lazy JW]

The solenoid MUST be well grounded to work properly. Make certain that the body is well grounded to the engine and the frame. Take all of the ground straps off and clean the connections, and clean where the solenoid mounts to the body. Hope this helps.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

I would get a new battery my past experiences with this issue all came back to the power source. If the silonoid is like makeing a buz or arching noise when you turn th key over the silonoid isnt recieveing enough power to make a strong enough current to the starter.


wes

 

[Anonymous]

Well I tried a new battery. That fixes one problem arty: Now I have 2 problems left the first being the car still won't turn over you can hear the starter try to turn it over but the engine won't turn, and I think that is because when I put the bearings in the bottom I forgot to use a plasti (sp?) gauge to check the clearances . The last problem is the starter starts tryng to start in the run position as well as the start position :fume: this I am thinking is something in the wiring...a short somewhere. If any body has any helpful suggestions or comments please let me know, I am at my wits end. Thanks.

David

 

[Lazy JW]

Sounds like you may have the two small wires in the solenoid reversed. Try switching them and see what happens.
Joe

 

[61Futura]

If your engine is froze, The starter is going to draw way more current than normal. That will be hard on the starter solenoid (relay) and the starter. Your battery will go dead fairly quickly as well. I'd start by pulling your spark plugs and then the engine should turn over easily by hand. If it doesn't, you may have too tight of bearings. Once you get it to turn over by hand, then solve your electrical problem. It sounds like your solenoids small wires are reversed, but the solenoid may be bad from powering the starter with a frozen engine.

 

[addo]

A quick skim didn't find it, but a couple of our guys "down here" noted similar issues with rebuilds. Pressure from the mains, and rear main seal, were big contributors. They persevered, and both noted once their motor was broken in it was one of the better rebuilds they'd known.

If you're unsure though, it may be best to check. Now, you get told that you should rotate the crankshaft before rod bearings go in, both to seat the oil seals and assure yourself of bearing freedom. Did you check your endfloat?

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

dstud2000,
Just a small word of advice.
If an engine is build with a little too much clearance, hardly anyone will know.
However if you build it with too little clearance everyone is going to know.
Remember, high performance engines are built with a bigger clearance.
If you couldn't turn the crank and piston assembly real easy before you put the head on and buttoned it all up, you probably have the bearings with too close a toleance.
Will they wear in/down, yea, with disastrous effects.
Unbutton it and double check all clearances.
A simple effort would be to take one of the tools which fit on the flex plate or flywheel and try to turn it before removing from the vehicle.
FWIW
DaveP

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the advice, unfortunately this was the only wkend I had to work on it...I have to wait another 3 wks till I come home again from school to work on it again. I'm just going to have to drop the pan when I get back home again and clearance those bearings. Oh the joys of restoring a classic pony :smash: Thank you for all of the replies. I will make good use of the advice and hopefully soon help build the rep of the I-6 community.

David

 

[mugsy]

I too had the starter stuck in the "on" position, and it was with the engine running. I was told by an old hand that the FoMoCo solenoids actually do not like low voltage. The low voltage will cause the solenoid to malfunction and the internal contacts "weld" together. So I did what the guy said and checked the exisiting battery, and sure enough, he was right. The voltage was low. And secondly, a new battery was installed, along with a new solenoid, and the problem has never resurfaced.

As for the tight bearings and stuff, I would take the spark plugs out first and rotate the engine over with a socket on the crank nut first. That will tell you if the thing is too tight. It will be alot quicker than getting under the car, removing the oil pan to get at the bearings to plasti-gauge 'em.

tanx,
Mugsy

 

[Anonymous]

Well I got the phone and had my dad try it with the spark plugs out and it was still not turning. So much for that. We'll keep working on it.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI YA Stud2000
Something I havent seen issued yet when you bolted up the tranny WAs it an auto or a stick ... If it was an auto are you sure the TQ converter is in all the way.. if you unbolt the Converter you should be able to move it at least 1/8 of an inch (front to back) and or be able to spin it. Their is a chance its not all the way into the pump.. which would cause the motor to bind up..
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

It's a stick, 3.03 3-speed. Plus I know what ya mean I had that happen to my 98' stang and it was a PITA when I swapped trannies.

 

[wsa111]

David, pull the engine out of the car & check if the main-rod bearings match the crankshaft.
First remove the rod caps & push the pistons up in the bores. Now see if the crankshaft turns?
If it does check the main bearing clearance & then go to the rod bearing clearance. Stop now trying to spin the engine, you will just do more damage. Let us know what you find. william

 

[Anonymous]

we haven't tried to turned it much. It's just I have to wait till the next time I go home to work on it again...in 3 wks....but I will keep you all updated....thanks for all the input it has been a big help.

David