First Time Rebuild

[Anonymous]

I have tried to read through all the threads. There have been some great questions and responses (at least from what I can tell).

I am about to undertake my first rebuild of a 67 200CID engine. Yes... a Virgin

The car is a 67 Coupe, Springtime Yellow with C4 and Factory Air. It even has a luggage rack, so it seems to be a rare mix of accessories. Best of all a buddy gave it to me for FREE because he was moving and had no room for it.

I have the engine and tranny out of the car and the engine is completely torn down. I am about to take it to a machine shop for a Bath, Bore and Magna Flux, but was wanting to make sure that this is the right thing to do. I have already contacted Mike at Ford Six Performance Parts to get on the wait list for the Aussie 250-2V Cylinder Head versus the "log."

Are there any recommendations on how I should get started? Recommendations on machining to be done on the 200CID?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[trashline]

it all depends on the money situation. how much you got?? it could take quite a bit of money to work the entire motor. i would bore the block and get it decked a bit and add some forged pistons. descent cam witha good valve train. purchase one of fordsixparts valve train kits. stock crnk should be good for quite a bit get it balanced though. the rest is in the head, since your looking to put on an aussie head that should be good enough. im not sure how they come but, maybe three angle valve job port polish and mill it. raise the compression ratio a bit. then purchase a higher stall torque converter to rebuild the tranny and the drivetrain shoul dbe great shape

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks trashline...

Money ain't falling out of my pockets, but I got into this project wanting to do it right, learn and have some fun doing it.

What do you recommend for the bore on the block? Balance on the Crank was a part of my plan.

Decent cam what seems to be the best bang for the buck.

I had suggested to Mike at Ford Six Performance Parts to create a package deal for NEWBIES like me and he thought it was a good idea.

 

[trashline]

it depends again daily driver or not. nothing to big of a cam bc it will suck up gas.

 

[ludwig]

Get yer two six-guns in yer hands mister: a good Mustang shop manual and David Shjeldahl's "Ford Six Performance Handbook". The handbook will answer more questions than you can ask and gives you good tips and specs.

 

[Anonymous]

It will will be a driver, but not daily. This is more for fun/play, so I want it to have some punch.

 

[Anonymous]

Hhehe.. if its a car just to have fun in.. why not put a super charger on it? lol, i soo wish i had the cash to put one on mine. I just had my inline 200ci rebuilt not too long ago.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Ludwig.... Where can I get David Shjeldahl's "Ford Six Performance Handbook"?

1967FordMustangs - I ultimately will put a supercharger on it... but I got to get it back together first... It is in a whole bunch of pieces right now...

 

[Anonymous]

Click on the Ford Six Shop link below.
Support the host.
DaveP

 

[Anonymous]

So what do you want to have this engine for? cruise, street/strip, race?

If you wanna do it cheap, first of all get the machine work done. You may be able to get away with a hone on the block, but theres a good chance you'll need a rebore. Same with the block deck needing machine work, it may have warped over the years. You may need your crank to be ground and/or straightened, at the very least polished. One or more of your rods may need to be resized, if there is any tarnish on the big ends due to poor oil supply.. As mentioned before, get the reciprocating assembly balanced. Ask the machine shop to check the condition of the harmonic balancer, if it has rubber in it, it may have deteriorated over the years. With all the machine work done, you'll be able to order bearings and pistons, you may as well order gaskets and core plugs at the same time. Decide what you want to use your engine for, and select a cam accordingly. Cams with lower amounts of duration generally make for a better behaved, but less powered motor. You May be able to reuse your lifters, but only if the bottom of them are perfectly flat, and have no defects. If they look concave, then they're trashed. They can be machined like new again, but thats only worthwhile on Toyota motors, where lifters and followers are Expensive. If your pushrods have signs of wear on them, then invest in new ones. Same with rockers. etc.

If you want your car for the bare minimum, stick with the log head and a stock-ish cam.. Others will argue, but I reckon if you want some good power numbers, then go for an imported head, either aussie or argentine, and a reasonably big cam, say 265-275 adv. duration.

Are you getting the transmission reconditioned too? If so, it may be an idea to get the torque converter remanufactured with a higher stall speed in mind..

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Dansto69:

Welcome to the straight world of Ford sixes.

On boring the block- once it is clean and determined to be a solid builder, have your machinist check the bores for wear and/or damage. He will assess the minimum amount of boring required to get good true cylinders. Only bore as much as in necessary to get a good true seal. Cylinder wall rigidity and integrity is more important that the very small gain of displacement by boring an extra .010" or .020". This is one place where less may be better. Whoa- that's almost un-American! Sorry Dolly.

On pistons and decking the block- Given your proposed use, I'd suggest that you go with small dish, cast, OEM replacement type pistons. These pistons will most likely come with a shorter than stock pin height. This is done to compensate for other machining. It is not helpful for our purposes. But, no problem because you will need to deck the top surface of the block anyway. The goal for decking the block is to achieve a perfectly flat mating surface and a zero deck height. That means that the piston will come up in the bore exactly even with the top of the block. Stock, the piston on a '67 200 is usually down about .025". The new, replacement pistons will be down even farther. You will need to mock assemble with the new parts to measure, to determine the amount of milling needed to get a zero deck height.

The reasons for trying to get to a zero deck height is that the head gasket that came on your engine is .025" thick. The aftermarket composite gasket you will be using to reassemble will be about .050" thick. The extra thickness makes the already generous deck clearance (deck height plus gasket thickness) of .050" (the new pistons will add to that) too much for good quench and turbulence. By decking the block to zero, you will be back to from .075" to .050". Ideally deck clearance should be in the .035" range for best quench and turbulence.

The reasons for the small dish, cast, OEM pistons is that they are cheaper, will be fitted a little tighter, will warm up quieter due to less expansion, and can withstand power up to about a 50% increase, assuming a good tune-up. They are also more knock resistant that flattop pistons. All things being equal, a dished piston will make more power than a flattop or domed piston in a wedge shaped combustion chamber engine. Forged pistons may be necessary when using NOS (Nitros Oxside), supercharging or extended high rpm running.

Sorry, the OEM steel shim, .025" head gaskets are no longer available. Finding one NOS (New Old Stock), is catch-as-catch-can.

On selecting a cam- With an Oz head and a C4, I'd suggest a 264-D2 from Mike. These cams were designed with the OZ heads in mind. The lobe angles will allow reasonable low end with an Auto trans. You may need to assess your rearend gearing and/or build a torque converter that is a little higher stall. Mike's website has a good essay on selecting a cam. Check it out.

When rebuilding and resizing the rods, insist on using ARP rod bolts. These are the same as used in the 289 V8s. They are cheap insurance.

What is your Compression Ratio (CR) goal for this engine?

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David