All Small Six Flat Pistons for 200 bored 3.710 (30 over)

This relates to all small sixes
Pistons for the 2.3L OHV 4cyl Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz (1984-94) are flattop with the same compression height (CH) as the 200/250 6 cyl.
The piston rings will also work. Here is an eBay auction for a set of 4, 30 over. You will have to buy 2 sets to get six.

You will have to buy 2 sets to get six.

Hope this helps
 
They will work fine.
However they also have the wrist pin offset .090". This will help low end torque, but also increases the friction of side loading in the bore.
You will loose some top end, but the increase in power due to a higher compression will more than make up that loss.
If you want forged flat tops the cost jumps to the $400.00-$500.00 range.
 
They will work fine.
However they also have the wrist pin offset .090". This will help low end torque, but also increases the friction of side loading in the bore.
You will loose some top end, but the increase in power due to a higher compression will more than make up that loss.
If you want forged flat tops the cost jumps to the $400.00-$500.00 range.
I have my block zero decked with the stock pistons. Will the 2.3L HSC pistons be a problem since the wrist pin center is different?
 
No not a bit, but expect a close to a gain in compression close to 1.0
 
Get plasma -moly. Have the cylinder wall honed as smooth as possible. 500 grit.
 
Well, pressing out the old wrist pins was fun. Arbor press wouldn't cut it so I moved to the hydraulic press. The original pistons had a nice flat surface to press against, but not the new Tempo/Topaz pistons. To press in the new wrist pins, I had to take a 15/16 socket and cut a section out of it for fit. Work like a champ. I had to buy two sets of the Tempo/Topaz pistons so I had two extra for test. Let's say I broke the first two eggs.
 
In the past, I have applied assembly lube to the cylinders and pistons for installation. Is this a bad practice? Does it interfere with seating of new rings?
 
Yes, go to JE piston.com and they say use a non detergent motor oil. No synthetic.
Some say no oil, I cannot bring myself to do that.. The thought is to use a light oil and not a thick assembly lube.
 
If the honing was done properly, the rings will be seated as soon as the cam is broken in. 15 minutes.
 
X2 I also only use just a few squirts of regular engine oil on the cylinder walls and piston skirt then I rub that in with my hand so it is all lightly coated. Then I set the ring gap positions and install them. Good luck
 
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