Fouled plug help needed

[Redfalken]

Hi all,

I wonder if someone could help me read a plug. The Falcon had been running rough for a few weeks so I decided to put in some new plugs and see if that helped (and man did it ever!). The plug pictured below is from the #1 cylinder and the side that has the most buildup is toward the firewall. Not sure if that's intake or exhaust??

The plug in the #2 cylinder is about half as bad and the rest look pretty good with just a light, grey-brown haze. They all have a little black soot down in the deepest part but not near the tip. The only additive I have in is an oil detergent to help loosen a sticky lifter. With today's prices I've been putting in the lowest octane gas.

Anything to be concerned with? I will be pulling off the valve cover soon to paint it and was considering adjusting the hydraulic valves (if they do adjust??) Is there anything else I should be looking for?

Also, my distributer cap is really burnt up around the contacts, the side near the center. It looks like the plastic has melted away but not a smooth melt..kind of rough and granular. I'm running a Pertronix unit with a 40,000 volt coil so I ordered a new cap that is the highest of the 3 grades the parts store carrys. Hope this helps but just wondered if anyone has encountered this?

I don't know exactly how long I've had them in but it hasn't been nearly a year I don't think. I almost always make short trips. It's my daily driver and I only live 2 miles from work. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI
Here's a link it should be page 2 and show some pic of different used plugs if not go to the 2nd page..
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp
Tim

 

[wsa111]

Kenny, does your engine consume an excessive amount of oil??
How many miles do you have on the plugs??
If the engine does not use oil, put in the new cap & rotor.
If the engine does consume oil, run a compression test to see if the use of oil is from worn rings & or valve guide seals. Good luck William

 

[Anonymous]

So, I am looking for something else and I come accross your post. My 82 Futura had exactly the same condition on the plugs; the #1 being worst of all then less as it went back.
My problem was caused by a faulty transmission modulator. It was worn out and sucking transmission fluid up into the engine and burning it of. I noticed my trans fluid was low so I topped it off and immediatley she began to blow smoke like there was a bonfire in the tailpipe. After a few miles it would stop, once the modulator had pulled of all the fluid it could reach. It should have been an easy fix, but on my car the center cross brace and the exhast both hide the transmision. I ended up taking it to a shop to get it replaced ($170 ).
Once this was done the plugs quit fouling so terribly. I'd check your transmission fluid level and maybe replace the modulator. The darned part was only $12 but I just couldn't get to it!

 

[Anonymous]

The darned part was only $12 but I just couldn't get to it!

well, it sounds like yours is extra hard to get to. but in case some don't know.. even the manual asks for special attention. you not only need a crows foot to do the job, but you need to grind some of the crows foot down to get the moudulator off. fun stuff huh?!

 

[Anonymous]

Conan, your engine is like mine (1982)- - - the vac tree runs into the line that runs along the valve cover and dumps into the intake log right at the #1 port.

I am not sure because I haven't seen his engine, but the vac modulator line on his car might not connect near #1. But that is a good recommend, though.

It sounds a lot like he may have a cracked ring or very worn valve guide in the #1 cylinder - looking at that plug, it is burning a LOT of oil.

 

[Anonymous]

Something that can help treat the symptom but not cure the cause is an MSD box. My Vette used to foul out plugs in a matter of a few hundred miles. The MSD box has kept them clean for years now. I know I have a rich fuel condition, but the MSD sure has made plug maintenance a thing of the past.
Doug

 

[gtm1086]

Well after consulting my spark plug guide it looks as if you are experiencing Ash Deposits. From the guide"Symptoms are. Light-brownish deposits encrusted on ground and or electrode. Caused by oil and/or fuel additives. Condition may mask the spark and cause misfires. Recommendations Check for worn valve guides or piston rings"

I would suspect that the culprit maybe the gas you are burning and the short drive time, which never really lets the engine heat up. If anything try to stay away from the cut-rate gas stations. Try to stick with the major brands. In most cases the additive packages they use are of a higher quality. If this does not help then look for the internal issues mentioned above.

 

[Anonymous]

Something that can help treat the symptom but not cure the cause is an MSD box.

You can actually turn a spark plug upside down (electrodes "up" like in the pic) and electrodes are filled to the top with oil, and a MSD will still fire it. It will actually spray little tiny droplets of oil everywhere as it fires. Pretty amazing.

I would suspect that the culprit maybe the gas you are burning

I highly doubt that. I am sure it is oil fouled from either a guide or rings. I have seen gas do weird things (like turn plugs BLOOD RED!) but not crusted and oily like that.

 

[gtm1086]

:roll: Sorry Linc But I have seen plugs look like that and the major culprit was fuel. Yes I have also seen the rust coloered plugs. With the additives and and such in todays fuel you have a very unstable product. Most of the name brand stations have better additive packages than what you will see with the cut rate jobbers. Anyway it is a quick test to see if it is fuel. Switch to a different brand and run a few tanks pull the plug and see how it looks.

 

[Redfalken]

Just some follow up...finally. I ran a compression test last week and there was nothing out of the ordinary. From #1 cylinder to 6 they read 155-160-150-155-150-145. I'm going to drop my oil pan next weekend to paint it so I'll have fresh oil and won't put in any additives this time. I'll make sure the plugs are clean and check them out in 3-4 months.

If they're still getting contaminated I'll try some better grade of gas and see if that works. Since I don't put many miles on it, I suppose I should put a crowbar in my wallet and get some better gas. I do tend to shop price (that means ARCO). I suspect my short trips aren't helping anything no matter what it is. The engine doesn't burn oil. I decided to replace the cap and rotor and this time I bought the high end Blue Streak with brass contacts.

 

[Anonymous]

Totally off topic, but you might want to try an MSD just to keep your plugs cleaner. They are easy to hide, IMHO.

They also have a tendency to make an engine run smoother, I have noticed.

 

[Lazy JW]

Your situation is one that would probably benefit the most from an MSD. Those short runs are bad news; the engine never really gets warmed up, and MSD is known to help noticeably on cold startups, which is about all your engine is doing. Also, try a hotter set of plugs, at least two heat ranges hotter, three wouldn't hurt. A hotter plug will help keep the deposits burned off. But if you decide to take a cross country run in the heat this summer don't forget to switch back or you will have severe pre-ignition problems. I kinda doubt that the fuel is causing this, it looks more like oil to me.

A side note: with all that short trip driving, don't change your oil based on miles, change it every three months even if it has only gone 500 miles. You aren't driving it at full temperature enough to keep the fuel vapors evaporated out of the crankcase so they just build up, replacing the oil that is being burned. That is why it doesn't appear to be "using" any oil. All engines burn oil.
Joe

 

[Redfalken]

So the next question is...what's an MSD? Are you referring to the brand name electronic ignition control boxes? Would this get me any different results than my current Pertronix Ignitor set-up with a MSD Blaster 2 45,000 volt coil?

 

[Anonymous]

I believe that I would just give it a good tune up. That plug looks to me more sooty than oily on the parts in the engine. You said your Dizzy cap was shot out. This all makes sense as a poorly working ignition will leave you with a lot of build up. The black hanging from the plug below the threaded area seems lumpy and dry in the pic and all that build up on the electrode is not the color of a cold plug or oil burning. I don't see anything wrong that plugs, wires,cap, button etc won't likely cure. also check that your choke is opening all the way when it gets warmed up--like was said those short trips are hard on a car plus over the winter you may never have it warmed up enough for the choke to open all the way. I keep looking back at that pic and it just looks like that plug hasn't fired properly in a long time, not like it has been getting oily.

 

[66 Fastback]

Yes the MSD is a multi spark capacitor discharge ignition system. There are several brands out there. And yes, it will give improved ignition over the pertronix & 45k coil. Your coil will only get those 45,000 volts if the input voltage is raised significantly, that is just the rating of the coil, it is not going to deliver that voltage / energy with just a stock ignition with a pertronix conversion. A capacitor discharge ignnition steps up the input voltage and energy that is delivered to the coil such that the output of the coil's voltage to the plugs is about 40,000 volts.
Doug

 

[Anonymous]

I actually run my MSD through my stock '82 coil.

I figure since it works (If it ain't broke, don't fix it) I'll keep using it.

 

[WhitePony]

Here's a link to MSD's tech site about how their ignition works:

http://www.msdignition.com/1helpmechoose.htm

 

[Anonymous]

I think an MSD is particularly helpful on our straight sixes, because they are known for having poor mixture distribution problems.

With some cylinders running richer and some leaner, a good ignition like MSD "evens the playing field"!