FSPP Header AC Bracket modification problems

[Anonymous]

I am posting this here for some advice, and also as a heads up to anyone running these headers with an aftermarket AC unit and a Non-Stock alternator.

Here is the situation...
When I installed the headers I knew I was going to have to modify this bracket for the AC compressor which moves the alternator up and above the compressor. Azcoupe has this all clearly detailed on the web-site.

So I got the bracket modified, added tabs and had the holes moved 1.25" from their current location...
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/DSCN0442.jpg>

You can just see the extension on the alternator bolt. The guys who welded this for me did a good job and even sloped the extensions down for more support.


Here is the problem....
when I tested this I measured for clearance but without the belt...
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/DSCN0441.jpg>

Now with everything installed I clear the tube, but I cannot move the alternator far enough north to tighten the belt... it hits!
I am running a Powermaster 100amp alternator and this one is about 1/2" thicker than the stock Alt... so in order for this to work I would have to move the location out 2" from where it was originally....

So, I cannot go back to a stock alternator. I would really hate to make the shop do this again as it would cost me? Can I try a shorter belt? Can anyone come up with any other solutions?

I went in tonight and bought a few belts shorter than the one I was using... but I can only move the Alternator about 1/4" in either direction...?

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/DSCN0443.jpg>

 

[ricksmol]

I don't know if I am just talking nonsense...but I see that you have a double pulley on the compressor. What about moving (somehow) the alternator towards the front untill the belt matches the front pulley. This would definitely give you more room to move the alt. upwards. Again I am not sure how it could be done. Just an idea.
Rick

 

[Anonymous]

The problem with that is the front slot on the compressor runs off the engine, and the rear slot runs the alternator...

the only other option in that idea would be to move the alternator forward and run one big giant belt around all four pieces, but I think that would drastically reduce the RPM's the alternator spins at... I am not sure?

I hate to even ask this... can I bend that tube somehow?

 

[65coupei6]

The only thing I can think of is a shorter belt or have a new mount made. I can not tell from the picture but it doesn't seem like one big belt would make good contact with all the pulleys.

I think I remember seeing a universal belt somewhere that had adjustments built in. I think they were made so you can have a spare in case your belt broke while on the road. Or maybe you can contact a belt manufacturer like Gates and see what the shortest belt is.

 

[Mustangaroo]

When I was still using my A/C unit, my setup used two belts, both A/C and alt had double pulleys and both belts went to the crank and water pump and the A/C and ALT pulleys together? Don't know if using a longer belt and changing the angles will help find a sweet spot? Good luck!

 

[addo]

What about murdering a PS pump bracket to fit the alternator other side?

 

[Anonymous]

There are enough mounting holes in your original bracket that you could add extension strips front & backside of the bracket, then mount the alternator on the extension strips to give you additional 1/2" to 1" clearance. A small muffler extension strip might work. I have in the past used a coil of flex strip for wrapping a patch on a muffler to something similar for mounting my air horns. I would cut to size as many strips as needed then wrap them together for the strength that I needed then bolt them in place using 2 bolts & nuts apiece for strength again. If you can find more rigid strips with approx. the same dimensions it would probably work better, but the idea is the same. This would prevent you from having to redo your mount till later when you have the time & money to do so

 

[Anonymous]

I think I will try these shorter belts first...

If that fails... then I will pull the bracket and have them remove the tabs and add longer ones moving the alt out another 3/4"....

I was planning on running a rear battery kit anyway...
this throws the alt so far to the passenger side I will have almost no clearance between the alt and the battery tray.... might be a good idea to give some room over there....

I hope they can fix this bracket.... without messing it up....

 

[Anonymous]

I may have another solution....

I thought of this one today while I was at work...

Here is a rude drawing of the bracket....
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/Bracket.jpg>

The left shot is looking from the side... those three holes attach the bracket to the block in two places, and the timing cover in the front.

The other side angle shows the three holes up top... the one to the left is for the Alt. the middle one is the old hole, and the right one goes through the water pump.

What if I drill the four mounting holes up so I can drop the bracket down 1/2"
that would give me the clearance I need, it will not interfere with anything, and I can make an extension for the water pump connection which is for stability only and not like the Alt connection that has a function....


I think this would work and would probably be pretty easy to do...

Making something like this....
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/Bracket2.jpg>

 

[Anonymous]

That is close looking to a factory 6 cyl air bracket. I guess your thoughts are in the right direction..

Darin

 

[Anonymous]

Jimbo,

Here's another option if you can't get enough pay with the alternator, you could have a stationary mount and add an adjustable Tensioner Pulley to take up the slack in the belt.

 

[Anonymous]

Just an update for anyone running this combination....

the problem turned out to be the tickness of the Powermaster alternator vs. the stock one which is thinner.

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/DSCN0461.jpg>

What we ended up doing was adding the 1 1/4" tabs on the side and dropping the whole bracket down 1 3/8" to gain clearance for the headers.
(This amount puts the bracket very close to the strut frame support... but there is 1/2" clearance.... check to make sure you have clearance... this amount was the real determining factor in the position.)

The three holes in the side of the bracket are no problem... however a tab had to be created for this front position on the water pump... since I could not get one welded in time... I used the existing two holes and made a plate to extend the bolt hole... then used some washers behind to make up for the added thickness... not the prettiest but I think it will work and all the belts fit too...
<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/DSCN0462.jpg>