general choke question

[Anonymous]

how do I turn the black choke housing on the back of my 1100..where it says "lean" and has arrows...how do I loosen to housing to turn and SHOULD I turn it?

I think my carb choke is actually stuck open...when I first had the car, it was stuck closed and raced...now it chugs when cold

I want to take the cap off and clean inside with carb cleaner but I am afraid I might not get it back together as I have never seen the inside of one of them

chaz

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Chaz:

Before you do anything else, Do a cold morning start with the hood open and the air cleaner off. Do your normal start up procedure and then get out and watch the choke open. After about 4 -87 minutes you will need to bleep the throttle to lessen or release the fast idle cam to lower idle speed. After about 10 - 15 minutes the choke should be completely opened/ vertical, or close to it. If this happens it is basically ok. If not something is stuck or out of adjustment.

If the choke plate/butterfly is not vertical/open. Stop the engine, loosen the choke adjusting plate and rotate toward "Leaner" until the plate is vertical.

Even if everything works, it is a good idea to periodically spray down the linkage area, shafts and inside of the carb.

It is best to disassemble the choke during a rebuild. If the choke is sticking/stuck. You will want to disassembly before cleaning.

Adios, David

Adios, David

 

[pedal2themetal45]

OH CHAZ, CHAZ, CHAZ..
Silly boy
Shouldn't be any junk inside the choke.. If its an old heat choke there is just a spring inside that hooks to a arm the pulls the choke on and off... as it expands and retracts with the heat.. There should be 3 small screws around the out side of the choke holding the black plactic cover on it.. You'll have to adjust it with the motor off as its hard to move with the motor vacuum sucking on it..
To check the choke Pull the air filter off and move the throtal linkage and see if it closes. It should if the motor is cold. Now it shouldn't close very tight just slightly, and it may even leave it open 1/16 or so.. depends on what the motor wants.. You'll have to play that by ear..
Also I'm not sure what carb you have but some have a (whats called) a choke pull off. it would be a vacuum pod thats hooked to the choke linkage and when the motor starts it pulls the choke off alittle bit. This is because some motor need the choke fullly closed to start then once started it doesn't need that much choke and is pulled open by the pull off.
Hope this helps Chaz
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

see that is the problem...it never does go up to the fast idle when cold......NEVER

i think that it never does engage. Thats why I chug when cold. I need to take the adjusting plate off and see whats up

Thanks guys. I am now gong in the right direction
Like I said before...it runs GREAT when warm
Chaz

 

[pedal2themetal45]

hay Chaz
do as David says to check if its even working.. Morning cold pull the air filter off and look at the choke pull the throtal linkage and see if the choke closes. usualy black smoke means to much choke, Flood condition.
tim

 

[Anonymous]

I will report tomorow

 

[Anonymous]

I think my fast idle cam is NOT working. It never clicks in. I doesnt seem to be makig the engine run faster.

MY CHOKE DOES SEEM TO BE WORKING....but with no fast idle, it really doesnt matter too much.

and what does the choke pull down bar adjust...the amount the choke kicks in? That doesnt seem to be right either. I am cnfused whether to adjust than when HOT or cold....

I DID FIND MY MANUAL...so i will be making good adjustments, the right ones, tomorrow

my CD with the complete manual is SCRATCHED. THAT SUCKS

anyone have the complete 68 maunal on CD?
I will update again at work AM friday

chaz

 

[mustang6]

I haven't heard it said so I just wanted to double-check that you are "setting" the choke before you start your cold engine by pressing the pedal to the floor once and then releasing? If you don't do that (the procedure is described in an OEM Mustang owner's manual), the choke will never have a chance to pull the fast idle cam into place and start your engine properly.

 

[Anonymous]

I think I am...but now that you mention it ...its a habit, so I will have to check when I start on way home tonight

the fast idle is not clicking in. I set the carb to the instructions in the manual (I think)

I FOUND AN INTERESTING PROBLEM

I leaned down on the choke housing and the idle picked up slightly. it seems like I might have a vacuum leak...would that be correct?

hmmmm

more adjusting

 

[JackFish]

Carb bolts might be loose.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HA CHAZ
I'm not sure what carb you have but some carbs have two screws one for normal idle and one for the fast idle (the fast idle one would be on the same side of the carb as the choke housing).
There is vacuum on the choke housing thats what pulls the heat up throu the choke to warm it up.
The choke pull down bar as you put it (choke brake) once the motor is started it pulls the choke off alittle (not compleatly just a little maybe 1/2 way or less) so the motor can run with out to much choke. The choke brake is just a little pod with one vacuum hose attached to it and a rod that goes to the choke(most right to the butterfly). If you not talking about the choke brake, but the lever that goes to the base of the carb off the choke housing that may the fist idle cam lever rod.
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

i have an autolite 1100

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/images/pdfs/1100.pdf


according to this exploded view, I was taling about the pull down adjusting nut. I seem to have corrected that. It s justa matter of watching what each does

I have a hot air choke. It has a heat tube from the manifold. The carb isnt loose, but the housing for the choke (seen in the bottom left of that PDF above) seems to be leaky, as if I push down on it, it runs a little smoother

I am gonna run out and fiddle at lunch

 

[Anonymous]

Ok...choke is NOT working

nothing moved aftrer 15 minutes

I am gonna take the choke off tomorrow and see whats up. I have spare parts and maybe I will try a new spring in there

atleast it starts and runs now every time

 

[Anonymous]

Me and my Dad just took the cap off my carb and cleaned it with the carb spray ... it was black and not in good shape ... easy to put together dont worry about that ... I found that mine is running much better after cleaning and adjusting the choke ...

Thomas

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HAY CHAZ
It is possiable to put the spring in backwards as well as not have it on the right side of the thing it moves.. Check this first they don't usualy go bad. With the motor cold move the choke housing and see if you can get the choke to move..
tim

 

[Anonymous]

i had my carb set WAY TOOO RICH. And I think the spring came off the choke level in the housing. I corrected both problems and it is running much better. I still dont have a fast idle for cold starts but now it does start.

I thought a 1/4 tank of gas in 20 miles was excessive...

still working on it

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI CHAZ
I'm not sure about the 1100 carb but look on the side of the carb below the choke housing and see if there is another screw and cam for the fast idle.. Some carbs have an Idle screw on the drivers side and a fast idle screw on the passanger side of the carb with it own fast idle cam down by the base of the carb... If the Idle screw on the driver side doesn't have a fast idle notch cam on it just a spot for the screw to adjust aganist then the must be a fast idle screw wit a notched cam on the passanger side of the carb (or opisit side of the carb from the idle screw). If the idle screw side does have the notiched cam then there should be a rod that conects it to the choke butterfly and that rod may need adjusted (bend it ) to make it work..
hopes this help Chaz
tim

 

[Anonymous]

which setting on the fast idle cam should it be set to when cold,

then when I engage or press pedal to the floor upon warm up...where should it go?

and finaslly, where should that end up (off)

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI CHAZ
When warmed up the idle screw should be on the last notch of the cam (if there is only one screw and no other place for it to rest on for idle..) if there is two screws (one for fast and one for warmed up idle) the fast idle screw should be all the way off the cam when its warmed up so the regular idle screw can rest on its set point.. Then set the choke (when cold) and adjust the fast idle to the rpm you want.
If there is one screw for fast idle and regular idle then to adjust the fast idle you have to bend the rod that moves the cam to the notich for the closest idle you want by how much the choke is on at first start (cold). If there is a spot for the screw to rest on for regular idle then bend the rod so the screw is on the 2 or so notch when cold or depending on how fast you want it to idle when cold..
hope this isn't to cofussing.
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

i think I will take a picture



thanks for the help. Let me grab a camera and post it