200ci Getting ready to place the head: Locate TDC on compression stroke

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Rebuilding 200lm and I am getting ready to replace the head. Before I do that I need to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. This is so I can adjust the rockers. I need to mark the dampner at TDC and then at the firing order's TDCs/piston. This is what my books say, and Roy Permenter's video VII.

BUT --
So I insert the lifters and then I take a pin light and look down inside intake and exhaust at the lifters and then ___? What am I look for? a) lifters all the way down or b) lifters all the way up?

Any help is appreciated. I have never done this step before.

 

[aussie7mains]

Ok, Rotate the engine until you can see that both intake and exhaust cam lobes are on the back of the cam, this is compression stroke, bring piston to TDC, check the marks on the harmonic balancer and timing cover line up, your there. As to adjustment, I dont think the USA 200s had adjustable rockers, so nothing can be done there. Make sure you fit the lifters BEFORE you drop the head on. Copious amounts of moly di sulphide grease should be on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms (if they are new).

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, if you don't have the timing cover on yet you can align the dots on the sprockets. Otherwise, after the intake valve closes, the next time the piston comes to TDC will be compression. You can put a paint mark on the balancer where the timing pointer indicates. The only really accurate way to find TDC is with a piston stop and a degree wheel, but you can get close enough without one. Good luck

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Thanks. That's good.
A couple of notes I neglected: Oil pan is on. Timing cover is on.
I degreed the cam last year (with everyone's help here - thx). That means my dampner TDC mark is spot on.
Reply in reference to aussie7mains, right - USA stock 1.5:1 are not adjustable. BUT I bought a new adjustable Howard 1.6:1 camshaft. Yes!
Unless I missed something in your replies, I still don't know how to read the lifters down in the holes. In my imagination I think the lifters would be DOWN, which I imagine that would translate the push rods are "relaxed," (not really) and the rockers are UP on the value stem side.Furthermore, I believe when both exhaust and intake lifters are DOWN in the holes that means the cam lobes are NOT pushing the lifters up, and the #1 piston exhaust and intake lifters are opposite both exhaust and compression lobes. Am I right??

I just want to take a pen light and look down in the lifter holes and say, "Yep, the lifters are both down AND my dampner timing mark is at TDC. So that's TDC for piston #1." (And then proceed along the firing order a quarter turn Clockwise and make a mark for remaining pistons (1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4).

Maybe some photos will help...

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Ok, Rotate the engine until you can see that both intake and exhaust cam lobes are on the back of the cam, this is compression stroke, bring piston to TDC, check the marks on the harmonic balancer and timing cover line up, your there. As to adjustment, I dont think the USA 200s had adjustable rockers, so nothing can be done there. Make sure you fit the lifters BEFORE you drop the head on. Copious amounts of moly di sulphide grease should be on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms (if they are new).

Upon rereading your response, I understand you answered my question with "look for the back of camshaft" -got it. I just had in my head Roy Permenter's video where he inserted the lifters and then looked at them to confirm TDC. But really your method is better: just look to see if both exhaust and intake lobes are NOT showing. Thx.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, according to the timing marks you are a few * before TDC. We always soaked hydraulic lifters in a coffee can full of motor oil before installation. Why don't I see assembly lube all over the camshaft? You need assembly lube on all the moving parts. We used to use Lubriplate White Grease. Lubriplate will stay on the contact parts a long time. Good luck

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Right. Yeah Those first three lobes don't have as much as the rest of the camshaft. I must have wiped too much off when I was messing with that #1 piston. Noted.
I'll load up the whole thing with assembly lube and anything I can find. I will soak the lifters in zinc motor oil too. Lubriplate huh. Okay I'll check it out. I was reading about white grease just last week. Thanks. I've been using Moly Assembly Lube Paste. It's sticky.

I am just about ready to put it all together. I just need to tack weld into place my 3-4 exhaust port divider.

 

[PSIG]

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, back when I started building engines there was no commercial assembly lube like there is now. We would use white grease on many moving parts and we knew it would still be there if the engine sat for a while. Good luck,

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

I haven't seen that one. Is it sticky? Long lasting?

 

[PSIG]

Yes, and yes (for the purposes). Assembly lubes aren't special magic, but this one is rapidly gaining popularity among builders for a reliable stay-put but oil-soluble extreme-pressure lubricant. The pressure rating is higher than most similar lubricants, the stickiness is relative to its NLGI-2 rating (same as our chassis and wheel bearing greases), it begins to melt away at 130°F (low as possible but high enough for most storage environments) and it washes-off with oil as it should to prevent blockage of passages and filters when oil appears. It's useful lifespan should only be a few engine rotations until oil flow and pressure is established, and it seems to do that well.

Yes, there are other suitable alternatives. Some independent background info is here. This is what I know, I am not a salesman or any other relationship with them. I only note some respectable builders and companies (such as Howard's Cams, Hendrickson, Kaase, Proline, Barker, and many others) also use it, and it's readily available. It's just an option.

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

I will find some. Thanks.