Good street setup?

[Anonymous]

Ok, what I'm trying to build a car that gets close to 30mpg (or better) highway milage (right now I'm getting 22-25 with a nearly stock setup) with fairly high power levels. This is my first I6 and I think its a great engine design.
I've been reading a lot on this site and in the Falcon Six Handbook, and I want to see if I understand a few things and get some direct opinions from people that have built these engines before.
I'm planning on getting the Weber 32/36 from Clifford (Clifford just because of the ease of having a kit, and I figure its already jetted about right). From what I understand, the small primary will help milage when just crusing and give a little extra torque at the bottom end. And I should have a little extra power when I hit the gas. I bought 'Package A' from fspp but most of that will wait til an engine rebuild is actually needed. I have Pertronix ignighter, coil, and wires already installed. I've got the fspp headers which I plan to install with the port divider and use a Y pipe to put the exhaust flow into the single 2 1/4" pipe I have installed already with a Dynomax Raptor muffler. At some point, I'd like to install a T5, but I guess I'll wait til Moderndrivelines gets their kit ready as I'm trying to keep the headaches to a minimum. My data plate is messed up where the rear end code is. What is it likely to be when it came from the factory? Its a 67 Mustang with the 200 and 3.03" transmission. What is the best ratio for what I'm trying to do?
One more question: will spark plugs from the 300 work as "extended plugs" in the 200? I know my cr is a little low because of the composite head gasket which isn't origional. Would the little extra room taken up by extended plugs get the cr near where it was stock? I don't want to pull the head until she needs a rebuild which I figure is a few years down the line.
So do you think what I have planned will put me close to my goal?

 

[Mustangaroo]

Tony H,
The Weber 32/36 from Clifford is a good kit, but if your on a budget a Holly 5200 (read weber 32/32) will give great MPG and some needed power. You can buy rebuilt Holly 5200's at Stovebolt on the web for $60 or$70 last time I checked. You will have to change you pedel linkage for the Holly or weber. I was getting close to 30 mpg with my holly when I was running a log head, BTW there adapter works fine and is only $15. and has the carb pointed in the proper direction when installed, IRC the Clifford is setting sideways when mounted. Don't think the 300 plugs will work for improving you CR but you could take your head off and install one of the metal headgaskets or locate one of the thinner composit headgaskets that are out there. Look around and read this forum as there are many other inprovements that you may want to explore! Goodluck!

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Tony H:

The two stage two barrel will be a nice step toward your goal of economy and better performance, but it can't do it all.

The other factor is Compression. Until you resolve the heart ache of composite gasket an CR you will be somewhat disappointed. I assume that you are talking about a longer thread spark plug. It will help some, to regain CR, as long as the additional reach doesn't contact the top of the pistons, and you grind off the thread that extends into the chamber. The exposed 1/4" of thread will collect carbon, making removal difficult, and the sharp edges of the thread will cause pre-ignition.

You will need to pull the head to correctly and permanently install the port divider in the head. That's the time to cc and mill for optimum CR, Add a three angle performce valve job with a 30 degree back cut on the intakes. Take the time to smooth and polish the chambers and smooth the sharp corners from the carb hole to the log. This step will likely make the biggest difference. You'll be ready to appreciate the headers now.

Most likely your '67 came with a 3:1 rearend. A better choice would be a 3.25:1 given your goals.

Adios, David

 

[CobraSix]

Sounds like you have a very solid plan. To build on what the other two said (which is pretty much right on), I will plug for the T5. it is on of your best upgrade options. I absolutely love mine. Increased the drivability of the car tremendously. It also improved the mileage at highway speeds by about 2-3 MPG. In town, I think it hurt, but only because the car accelerates so much better it becomes addicting to push it. So really, it isn't the T5, it's me driving the T5.

But it does sound like you have a very solid plan. Go forth and conquer.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info.
darn, I was hoping to get the divider installed without removing the head.
I think I'll get the late model head with the larger stock intake valves when I remove the head then. I know that the chamber size is larger on these heads so I know milling will be needed. I'm thinking I should have a cr of about 9.2:1 since I live near sea level. Sound about right?

Are there any hood clearance issues with the stovebolt? Looks like I can get the bascially what I want at a 1/3 of the price by going that way. That makes me very happy. Whats the flow rate difference between the 32/32 and the 32/36? One other thing about the T5- I've read that one from a 4 cylinder works well with these motors and is lighter than the V8 version. How does the weight of a T5 from a 2.3 compare to my 3.03"? I assume its a little heaver because of the extra gears but by how much?

 

[CobraSix]

Tony,

I'll disagree with the port divider issue. I missed that one. If you use cheap "high" temp stuff like JB Weld, it won't work. If you use REAL high temp epoxy, it works like a charm. I bought some from www.cotronics.com, RESBOND 907-GF. Good for consistant temperatures of 2300*F and peak of 3000*F. I've used this on turbine exhaust systems, and never seen it fail. I used it on my port divider with no problems what so ever. A few other people have also used it with no problems to report. Most people report problems with epoxy because they use stuff like JB weld that is good to a PEAK temp of 500*F and usually consistant temp of 300*F. Not nearly enough.

As far as weight difference, I know there is about a 30-50lbs difference between a 2.77 and a 2.3 T5. Probably about 30lbs between the T5 and a 3.03.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I ordered the Holley/Weber carb and adaptor from Stovebolt. Looks like I'll be getting it all for around $100 instead of close to $500. Thanks pointing me to Stovebolt. I forgot to ask them about it, but so you guys think it will be jetted correctly? I've heard this could be a problem. I found the adaptor compareison on this site. Looks like I might have to make a plate to turn the carb around all the way and the linkage, but thats no problem as my cousin works as a fabricator.
I'm really excited about this.
Thanks CobraSix, I think I'll try that high temp. epoxy. Am I blind or do they not give a price for it?

 

[CobraSix]

They don't list it. last year it was $26 for 3 4oz tubes. I think that is the minium order. Unfortunately, you'll only need about 1 oz of the stuff for this job. But you can use it for other things too.

Slade