h/w 5200 linkage ?

[anotherhassel]

Spoje to the guys at clifford today. The catalog says they have an adator for linkages for ford 200 pre '67 and post '68. The guy told me not to waste my time with the h/w 5200 and either use the 32/36 or the 38/38. My question is and I know someone will say look it up mand I have someone please help me! Need to know is the 5200 really worth time and effort on? I am not solely interested in gas mileage more interested in power,but gas mileage is still alittle importantat $3.75 a gallon. So if someone would be kind enough I would be much abliged. Anotherhassel

 

[Bort62]

Take anything anyone associated with Clifford tells you with a HUGE grain of salt. They have been proven to be fairly full of it over and over again.

And I want to know where you are getting gas for 3.75. That's pocket change compared to here

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Unless someone can tell me otherwise, the difference between an 32/36 weber and a HW 5200 is like the difference between a left and right handed Phillips screwdriver.

For the simplest, lowest priced installation, get the following from Stovebolt http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/category.asp?catcode=33 : new HW 5200 ($85) (Rebuilt for $65), electric choke ($10), and adapter ($15). You can also order the air cleaner ($30). I'd just keep the base to use with an open element top and filter.

If you mount the carb with the float bowl to the left side, the stock linkage will work with minor mods. That's my plan in the near future. Also, see the Holley Weber Jetting Sticky at the top of this forum.

 

[anotherhassel]

pocket change lol it is still pretty high. I live in New Jersey so maybe that has something to do with it. Thanks for the response just wondering what your thoughts were you seem to be very knowledgable And most of the post I read weather it be exhaust questions or intake. I dont want to take the head off and have the log milled as it is the original head(rebuilt of course). The engine has less than 10000 miles on it and I am doing a dual out header witch I know you Disagree with Bort but I like the look and sound . Looking for moderate power increase as my mustang is fairly light so should i put out nthe effort time and $ for the 5200.

 

[anotherhassel]

Thanks bigred. That is one of the things i was lookin for. The guy said that the 5200 was junk and I should just buy the weber. Maybe tryin 2 make a sale . So they are basically the same carb and I could possibly try the clifford linkage? I dont want to cut up my linkage so maybe when the time comes I will go for the link kit it is only $#0 bucks or something like that.

 

[Bort62]

pocket change lol it is still pretty high. I live in New Jersey so maybe that has something to do with it. Thanks for the response just wondering what your thoughts were you seem to be very knowledgable And most of the post I read weather it be exhaust questions or intake. I dont want to take the head off and have the log milled as it is the original head(rebuilt of course). The engine has less than 10000 miles on it and I am doing a dual out header witch I know you Disagree with Bort but I like the look and sound . Looking for moderate power increase as my mustang is fairly light so should i put out nthe effort time and $ for the 5200.

Hey man, do what you like Don't let me peer pressure you into something else.

I've never run the 5200, but plenty of people here have with almost unanimously positive results.

It is certainly better than the stock carb, and cheaper than the Pony alternative.

Had I not had the turbo to consider, I probably would have used a 5200 as well.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

mysavioreigns used a piece of bar stock with 3 holes to extend the reach of the Z-bar. Rpsaly posted this: http://www.ma-mustang.fr/carburateur/ca ... ur-en.html , using the Clifford adapter.

Me, I'll be adding the bar extension, and turn the carb/adapter 90* counterclockwise from what I have now.

 

[Kustomkarma]

I'm still fighting my way through my Comet project and am to the point of working on the engine. My original 1 bbl sat for a long time and is full of crud, rust, etc. so I figured I'd upgrade rather than rebuild it. It looks like the H / W 5200 is a good way to go. My questions are as follows:

Are the $65.00 and the $85.00 carb from Stovebolt exactly the same carb aside from one being new while the other is a rebuilt?

Will the 5200 need to be rejetted to work with my stock 200 cid?

Will I definitely have starvation problems if the fuel bowl is not facing forward?

Has anyone converted to a cable type carb linkage and do you have any pictures? (I have a 2 speed auto. trans. in my car.)

Will the 5200 work with the original Load-O-Matic distributor? I plan to change it to a newer one later. Is there a port on the carb that I can plug the vacuum advance into?

Lots of questions, but I want to do all my homework before I start spending money.

Thanks.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Langdon's won't give any info as to jets, etc. He just says the carb will work, but it is not the carb designed/taylored to the engine (they seem to be more C***y oriented). For $20 more, I figured it was worth it to get a new unit, instead of one with some wear. Don't know what all is involved in the rebuild, as Langsaon's just says they're not the rebuilders.

I have not rejetted my 5200 yet, but the car runs great; and MPGs seem to be up, so far. Don't even know if it will need rejetting. (No AFR meter/gauge yet.) I won't even open it up until I'm satisfied everything else is done, such as my linkage. Since I'm very attached to my Cruise Control, that's an important issue. I hooked up the linkage yesterday.

I have not encountered any starvation issues,but I haven't done any hard cornering. I don't plan to, either, except for emergenies (which I'll try to avoid).

I'd say, try it. Hook up the LOM dizzy to the dizzy port of the 5200. Then you can tell us how it went. For about $80, you can get a rebuilt DS I or II dizzy, with a GM HEI Module.

 

[Ba Mustang]

I made a cable setup for my carb.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

I made a cable setup for my carb.

Good job! I'm going blind, but it looks like you still have bellcravk and rest of original linkage there. Is that the stock spacer under the adapter? How much room do you have for an air cleaner?

 

[jamyers]

Unless someone can tell me otherwise, the difference between an 32/36 weber and a HW 5200 is like the difference between a left and right handed Phillips screwdriver.

Closer than you'd think. The Holley 5200 is actually a clone of a Weber DFV, which is a mirror-image version of the Weber DGV, also known as the 32/36.

A 5200 will mount on a FordSix easier than a DGV (32/36), because the throttle "pulls" the right way. If you used a DGV, you'd be pushing the throttle open, or if you turned it float-bowl-forward, the throttle would be on the front of the carb, opening toward the passenger-side fender.

Ignore what the Clifford guy said.

 

[Ba Mustang]

I made a cable setup for my carb.

Good job! I'm going blind, but it looks like you still have bellcravk and rest of original linkage there. Is that the stock spacer under the adapter? How much room do you have for an air cleaner?

All of the original linkage is there. Yes, the stock spacer is under the adapter. I have less than 1" for a air cleaner, so I don't have one on it.


I use the stock return spring to return the new cable. The cable is hooked up to the throttle bar that all the other linkage connects to.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

I removed the spacer, and suffered no ill effects. In addition, I routed both heater hoses to the driver's side of the valve cover. This moves them away from the exhaust, and it has helped the engine run much cooler.

 

[Ba Mustang]

I removed the spacer, and suffered no ill effects. In addition, I routed both heater hoses to the driver's side of the valve cover. This moves them away from the exhaust, and it has helped the engine run much cooler.

I can't because the spacer has the throttle linkage parts connected. Once I go to a real throttle cable I will take it off.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Aaaah!

 

[aahsac]

Hey BIGRED

I am planning on taking the same route as you on carburation(sp?). I look at the Langdon's site and I see the rebuilt HW but not the new one. They have a new Carter Weber for $85 that appears identical, is that what you went with?
Also, did you buy the single HW progressive linkage kit from Landon's?

Thanks!

 

[mysavioreigns]

I noticed my name was mentioned in here (thanks BigRed for the recognition ) - here's what I did

Picture

thanks to Albert Penello for the pic

 

[Kustomkarma]

"I am planning on taking the same route as you on carburation(sp?). I look at the Langdon's site and I see the rebuilt HW but not the new one. They have a new Carter Weber for $85 that appears identical, is that what you went with?
Also, did you buy the single HW progressive linkage kit from Landon's?"

I was wondering the same thing.

 

[jamyers]

"I am planning on taking the same route as you on carburation(sp?). I look at the Langdon's site and I see the rebuilt HW but not the new one. They have a new Carter Weber for $85 that appears identical, is that what you went with?
Also, did you buy the single HW progressive linkage kit from Landon's?"

I was wondering the same thing.

I'm just about positive that the Carter-made Webers are DGV's, which are mirror-image versions of the DFV, aka H/W 5200. Looking at Langdon's pics it looks like the choke is on the far bore, which would indicate a DGV. With a DGV-series carb, your throttle will go the opposite direction from a DFV (push vs. pull). But anything can be adapted, as folks here have shown time and again.