Throwing $.02 in...albeit a little late to do you any good since she's going back into 'dry dock' 
and you might already be aware of most of it...
On your over heating...generally if you can remove the thermostat and improve cooling, then you've likely got a coolant flow issue. Restriction in the block, radiator and even the heater core are the usual suspects. Jack/MustangSix did a good pictoral some years back on an engine he 'de-scaled'...you would not believe the piles of rust that came out of that block
Although I think the first suspect should be the radiator. Is it the original and has it ever been vatted & rodded? The orginals are made of the most efficient heat displacement metal there is, 'copper'.
Eventhough the newer aluminum radiators are inexpensive, they seem to have more efficient design (i.e. more surface area for releasing heat). At some point the old ones just wear out. As they age the zig-zag heat-sinking little fins become detached from the verticle tubes and they just don't cool as well as they once did. That last part can be easily overlooked on old rads.
As fewer and fewer places rebuild radiators, or do it without being cost prohibitive (compared to inexpensive mass fabbed new rads), if there is serious doubt to the condition of the radiator I'd replace it. Plenty of parts on the engine can be rebuilt and re-used over and over again...radiators not so much. If you do need to replace the rad, do a thorough flushing of the entire system before putting the new one in...and be careful about using too much rtv silicone on any gasket surfaces...that can clog up the tubes right back up, real quick.
For the carb, make sure you adjust the tab on the float with it detached from the carb...NEVER push on the float or try to bend the tab while it's installed or making contact with the needle valve...otherwise you'll damage the viton/rubber on the tip of the needle valve and it will never seal correctly.
I'd also consider opening it back up and checking the floats for a leak if you didn't already. The brass ones are known for developing leaks on the seams. I like using a cup of rubbing alcohol and submersing the float for several seconds...mainly cause it's so viscous, but also because it wil evaporate out if it doesn't drain all out of the float...if you are considering or need to resolder the seam.
Also keep in mind (again you're probably already aware of this) that a 'higher measure' off the base of the float equates to a 'lower' fuel level in the bowl...I always error on the high side of the number (fig 1).
Last couple things in regards to the carb...you have to make sure all the little check balls, weights, etc. are back in the proper place...they all have a function, and inparticular the check balls often prevent fuel from internally bypassing. I'd also consider checking the pressure being delivered by the fuel pump to the carb. Many carbs don't like more than 7-8psi at the very most, and some like webers will only tolerate quite a bit less. Good luck
and you might already be aware of most of it...On your over heating...generally if you can remove the thermostat and improve cooling, then you've likely got a coolant flow issue. Restriction in the block, radiator and even the heater core are the usual suspects. Jack/MustangSix did a good pictoral some years back on an engine he 'de-scaled'...you would not believe the piles of rust that came out of that block
Although I think the first suspect should be the radiator. Is it the original and has it ever been vatted & rodded? The orginals are made of the most efficient heat displacement metal there is, 'copper'.Eventhough the newer aluminum radiators are inexpensive, they seem to have more efficient design (i.e. more surface area for releasing heat). At some point the old ones just wear out. As they age the zig-zag heat-sinking little fins become detached from the verticle tubes and they just don't cool as well as they once did. That last part can be easily overlooked on old rads.
As fewer and fewer places rebuild radiators, or do it without being cost prohibitive (compared to inexpensive mass fabbed new rads), if there is serious doubt to the condition of the radiator I'd replace it. Plenty of parts on the engine can be rebuilt and re-used over and over again...radiators not so much. If you do need to replace the rad, do a thorough flushing of the entire system before putting the new one in...and be careful about using too much rtv silicone on any gasket surfaces...that can clog up the tubes right back up, real quick.
For the carb, make sure you adjust the tab on the float with it detached from the carb...NEVER push on the float or try to bend the tab while it's installed or making contact with the needle valve...otherwise you'll damage the viton/rubber on the tip of the needle valve and it will never seal correctly.
I'd also consider opening it back up and checking the floats for a leak if you didn't already. The brass ones are known for developing leaks on the seams. I like using a cup of rubbing alcohol and submersing the float for several seconds...mainly cause it's so viscous, but also because it wil evaporate out if it doesn't drain all out of the float...if you are considering or need to resolder the seam.
Also keep in mind (again you're probably already aware of this) that a 'higher measure' off the base of the float equates to a 'lower' fuel level in the bowl...I always error on the high side of the number (fig 1).
Last couple things in regards to the carb...you have to make sure all the little check balls, weights, etc. are back in the proper place...they all have a function, and inparticular the check balls often prevent fuel from internally bypassing. I'd also consider checking the pressure being delivered by the fuel pump to the carb. Many carbs don't like more than 7-8psi at the very most, and some like webers will only tolerate quite a bit less. Good luck
