head goin back on, few more questions

66Sprint6

Famous Member
Alright, its about time to get the head back on. I found out that the head was milled .030 so what head gasket shoudl I use and where should I be able to pick one up. Also, what are the torque specs on the head bolts AND the header bolts???? Im sure im missin somethin, so any other help would be greatly appreciated, such as things needed to be done to get it ready, if anything
Matt
On a side note, I want to thank Dan (ImportKiller) for all he has done for me. He took my head from me when no-one would do it for me and had it done months before my best estimate would even look at it. Then he ported the exhasut and intake holes and did a wonderful job. Thanx again Dan, you are a life saver!!!
 
Matt,

First, get a shop manual. It has all the torque specs and tightening patterns you'll need to know about your car. It's worth the money.

Gaskets: You can get a standard Fel pro from any auto store. Mike on the forum had some thin gaskets that helped increase the compression ratio some, but since you've milled the head, I'd say stock will be fine.

Since you did mill the head, you may want to think about some head bolt washers. Get some Grade 8 washers to put under the bolts to keep them from bottoming out.

When you torque the head bolts, you'll be doing it in 3 stages. first stage is like around 50 ft-lbs. You'll do that to all the bolts. Then go grab a drink, sit back for about an hour and torque to the next stage torque. Then you should wait for a little bit longer, preferably over night, and then torque to the final specs. Technically, I think you only have to wait like 30 minutes between torquings...but many people here like waitiing longer so you don't warp the head.

Also, oil the cylinder walls with some Marvel Mystery Oil before you put the head on. Just a real thin coat. This will help during start up.

Slade
 
ok, wheres a good place to get grade 8 washers and mystery oil QUICK, I wanna try and get it on tomorrow. 50 ft/lbs, then the next stage, what do you mean by the next stage. Ill try to get a shop manual so I dont have to ask, but I wanna do this right the first time!!! How does the head gasket go on, just put it on the block and then the head over it or does it need a gasket sealer???? Thanx for the help
Matt
 
I just bought a set of washers from Advance auto parts. They were Mr. Gasket head bolt washers and 34 are in the pack. yeah, you only need 14 but what can you do. AS for the staging here's what my manual says:

Stage 1: 50-55
Stage 2: 60-65
Stage 3: 70-75

As for the Fel-Pro gasket, no sealer is needed. The head gasket will go on like it is in the package. There are orange seals along the top and the gasket only goes in one way. It will not stick over the block. Just look at the bottom of your head or the top of your block and you'll see where all the holes line up. Don't worry, putting the head back on is easy.
 
thanx alot Barish, your post is very encouraging. I didnt have THAT bad of a time getting it off, so I figured it would go on ok. I will post further questions if I run into any other problems along the way
Matt
 
One thing, have two studs ready when you put on the head. I made some myself, but you can also buy some. All you need is a 7/16 bolt with 14 size threads (btw you need it longer than your head bolt).
 
another question, when I put the header on, do I just put the gasket on and then tighten the bolts like the head or is there a sealer there as well. Also, my headers are from Cliford and are blak, ceramic coated. Do I need to sand that of the gasket matin surface???
Matt
 
What some of the guys here have suggested and I have done is buy a regular exhaust manifold gasket (if you don't have a header gasket) and buy a tube of Permatex copper sealant. I like to put a layer on the head, the header and on both sides of the gasket. This might seem excessive but I had a lobe broke on my head on the 6th cylinder and had to reg up something. The sealant saved me from have an exhaust leak.
 
Make sure you head gasket is not damaged at all. Even the slightest crink in it can spell trouble later.

I didn't do sealer on my exhaust side, but that was because I knew it was only going to be temporary.

Mystery Oil can be purchased at just about any auto store.

Slade
 
A light smear of oil or moly grease on the bolt threads, and both sides of the head washers or under the bolt heads. Very helpful for correct torque. Be judicious what you drink between torquings. :wink:
 
Do not try setting the head on the block without those 2 guide posts made from bolts longer than the head bolts, with the hex heads cut off and slots for a screw driver then cut in the top side of the posts. Put 1 guide post in a back corner and the 2nd in the opposite front corner. Start a few head bolts before removing the guide posts. Start torqing from the middle of the head working your way out in a circular pattern. I wish I could scan in a picture because it does alter direction for the last 4 bolts. 2 bolts go into the water jacket and should have sealant put on the threads. They are the right side (passenger side)front and rear bolts. First torque to 55 lbs. Wait awhile and retorque to 65 lbs. Wait some more and torque to 75 lbs. The gasket I bought said not to use any gasket sealant, so I didn't.
 
what type of sealant??? I didnt get it on tonight, hurt my back then went out with some friends (non of which would help me lift it onto the block). Ill do it tomorrow, Ill put in 2 guide bolts and then put sealant on the front and back passenger side bolts. Thanx for the help guys, yall are a HUGE help in getting my project done and back on the road.
Matt
 
I got the head on, now I just have to put the head bolts in and torque them down. I wouldnt be half as far into this part of it today if Notre Dame hadnt been getting whooped. To bad, oh well. They will live to play again, or you never know, they may come back and beat Michigan, lol
Matt
 
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