Head Question

[Anonymous]

I installed a new head last fall but never started the car. (basically set the head and torqued it down and left it). I just pulled the head back off to do some other work.

1 Can I reuse the gasket or do I need to replace it?
2 Since the head was milled I will use washers. What kind of washers do I get. What do I ask the parts guy for?
3 Do I need to replace the head bolts if so what do i ask for?
4 This is a big log head going on a 68 stang. Do I need to use adjustable rocker arms or can I use the stock rocker arms and push rods?

Thanks for all help

 

[addo]

1. Replace it.

2. Hardened (Grade 8) washers. Be sure that the OD lies inside the counterbored area for the bolt heads. Grease/oil both sides of the washer.

3. If they fail a visual inspection. Note that you may have a rear bolt with a reduced shank in the hole that doubles for oil transfer duites. Put it back in that one. Similarly, if you have one with a drilled and tapped hole in the top for a grounding eyelet, be sure it goes back where intended. Many people consider head studs to be a good option if in the budget.

4. Adjustable is better, but you may need to check your pushrod length.

Regards, Adam.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Spyke:

1. You can reuse the head gasket if you didn't start the engine. While you have it off measure the compressed thickness for accurate data in figuring your compression ratio.
2. Mr. Gasket P/N#87 (actually 7/16th header bolt washers), Pioneer P/N#S-1018, includes a kit of 34 washers, or ARP P/N#200-8512. ARP are pricey- $20.00. I've been told the GM has a set available for their sixes too. They should work. All these are is hardened steel flat washers in various thickness.
3. No, you do not need to replace the head bolts as long as they came out good. If you have some extra, you might want to cut the head off two, slot each for a screwdriver slot and start one at each end of the block to help center the head gasket and align the head. When you have all the other bolts started, screw out the two guide studs and replace with the head bolts. If possible torque to the final setting with a dial type torque wrench. Then you can see if a bolt turns without tightening, stop, before it breaks and replace with a different head bolt.
4. You do not need to use adjustable rockers, but you should want too.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks David

A couple other things you may be able to help with....

I dont remember which head bolts came out of which holes. And to make matters worse, I have a second 200 that I took apart so I have alot of head bolts around. I guess shorter ones go in certin holes, but which??

I do have a set of adjustable rocker arms and rods. I just can't figure how to adjust them. When I turn the nuts to adjust them I get metal shavings. I may just go back with the stock ones and let the lifters take the slack.

BTW My engine is a 68 200

 

[61Futura]

The front and rear end head bolts on the right side go into the water jacket and should have water sealant put on the threads of the head bolts. I think the thinner bolt for oil passage must be one of the rocker arm bolts (probably the rear one if any). I never noticed one on my 170, but never removed the bolts from the rocker arm when I pulled that off the head.

 

[Anonymous]

2. Hardened (Grade 8) washers.

Those must be new - I've never heard of them before!
:rolflmao: :rolflmao:

 

[Hot 6t Falcon]

Hi Spyke,

Hey, aren't you lucky, you get both Schjeldahl brosthers telling you what to do! No, I just wanted to add some pictures of the later bolt and and the oil passages.

If the pictures don't work on May 1 and 2, it 'cause the the server is going to be down for maintenance. Check it again on saturday.

First a blurry bolt picture. The one on the left has a reduced shank. Ford started using them in about 1975. You'll want one in the Driver's Side rear-most bolt hole.

Next is a picture of the slot/oil passage in the head. Remember that when you milled the head, this passage got a lot smaller too. Clean it and make it a little deeper again. This slot transfers the oil to the rocker shaft from the passage in the block.

Next is a picture of the block oil passage to the slot in the head. The pen is pointing to the oilhole. The other high-lighted hole is for the head bolt that the oil flows next to into the head. You'll notice that the block shown is chamfered towards that bolt hole to aid oil flow.

Good luck

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks!

Any ideas where I can find one of those reduced shaft bolts. called around to parts stores, dealers etc... no luck.

I am going to the pick and pull to see if I can find a 200 or 250 but they are pretty scarce around here.

 

[Hot 6t Falcon]

Did you just ask for head bolts for a '80 Fairmont?

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

You might check your local yellow pages.

There is a place just east of Indy called 'Nuts and Bolts of Hancock County'

I can walk in and lay a bolt on counter and say I need 8 of these in Grade 8 and they go back and get them. If they dont have them they have told me in past they can get them in a couple of days.

Cadmium, oil treated, allen head or hex head, etc.