Heater core bypass???

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I want to rig up type of bypass of my heater core for the summer months ( I swear I can feel heat near my feet, and don't have AC).

I was thinking of just installing a valve (of what type, I don't know) and a bypass hose so I could just close the valve in the summer. I hope this makes sense.

Has anyone done something like this before? Pics?
 
Howdy Spyke:

You can easily use a short piece of water pipe, or light weight PVC pipe to splice between the front and rear pieces of heater hose. A couple of small hose clamps and you're there. You will lose a little coolant on the change over, but not enough to worry about.

Disconnect the hose from the carb heater, insert the pipe, tighten the clamps and you're off.

Adios, David
 
hey we just used a hose valve on ours. Make sure u dont use something that is plastic or it will melt and that is not good. If i could figure out how to post a picture on here i would but if you would like to see one i could e mail it to you. you can e mail me at kevinstang65@hotmail.com or you can just pm me with your e mail address.
 
Just popped in to say hi. Ford and Jeep both use heater bypass setups. They are controlled by an electric selenoid connected to the heater switch. When you turn on the heater it opens the valve allowing coolant to flow into the heater core. I've seen these on Rangers and Explorers and pretty much all of the newer Jeeps. You can make a cheaper version with some irrigation parts. Hope it helps. :wink:
 
Wouldn't a hose valve cause zero water flow on a cold engine and force the thermostat open from the water pressure? That couldn't be good for the water pump either.
 
All the systems I've seen divert the coolant. Lets see if I can explain myself without being offensive. Basically the valve body intercepts the coolant before it gets to the heater core and redirects it down the return line. It simply makes the loop smaller by eliminating the heater core. I've seen it done with ball valves and galvanized pipe but it was a tricky little thing. I'm not sure about a hose valve. I think if you had three of them and a connecting pipe it could work. Shut off flow to core, both inlet and outlet sides, and have another valve between the engine and these valves connecting the two lines creating a circle! I think we've got it I may have to try that on my 300. Thanks for the idea guys. :D
 
Since tearing out my heater unit, I just looped the heater hose from the pump to the block with about a foot of hose. I'll send you a pic if you like since I can't post them here. Just e-mail me.
 
70ish Mopars also used a cable operated on/off valve IIRC.

You can block off the hose with a plug at the head and at the water pump with no ill effects. Thats how I did mine last winter and I've experience no problems by doing it :D :D

Later,

Doug
 
There has to be some reason that Ford, Jeep and Dodge all used bypass vaves instead of simply stopping the flow. It does help save the heater core from corrosion when not in use, but I don't know about any backpressure issues.
 
There is a coolant bypass between the block and head to flow water back to the pump even when the t-stat is closed. Blocking the heater core will not cause any problems.

The system is desgned for full heater operation all the time to keep a consistent temperature coming out of the heater. Instead of adjusting the flow thru the core, Fords have an air mixing flap. That way, no matter how much air comes in due to changes in pressure at the vent opening, the temps remain fairly constant. The downside is, when the gaskets and seals give out, hot air can't be kept out. A cheap heater box rebuild usually does the trick.
 
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