Hello everyone! I have some questions, please help me.

kaiser

New member
Well, I'm from México (so don't blame my english and grammar hahaha), here no one like the inline sixes but i do, i have an old falcon with the 170 with 4 main and actually have some items for my build:

264/264H cam kit with 110 center
classic inlines headers
pertronix ignition (maybe HEI in the future)
2V holley carburetor
a lot of shiny parts like alum rad, alum valvecover and filter, etc :P

I'm planning to do the 2 log mod on the head, install larger valves, mill the head, etc...

But for now i have the next question, i have the chance of buy a sweet 200 engine for only 250USD or a 250 engine for something like 600USD... both of them had automatic trans, and i actually have a manual trans with 4 shifts installed trough a homemade adapter hehe.

What I should do? I think the 200 will be better for me since i have everything for the swap like new motor mounts and the bell-housing, but i don't know if the 250 are money worth since i will have to do a lot of more adaptation to the engine bay/trans

the 200 engine (from a mustang):
f05-0239171.jpg


the 250 engine (from a fairmont):
f05-0222509.jpg




Thank you very much, all the help are very welcome.

Gilberto García

:thumbup:
 
If that 250 was really in a Fairmont that would be very unusual and interesting.
I notice the oil pan may actually be for a fox-body with that big rear sump.
 
Welcome!



Q1:What year Falcon is it going into, and is it a US, Mexican or South American model?
Q2:What transmission do you have at the moment?
Q3:What transmission to you want to get?


Note that both engines are 200 cubic inch 3.3 liter engines, BUT THE BLUE ENGINE IS YOUR EASY CHOICE.

Buy either one, but the red and black one will give you the most headaches as no other gearbox will fit it... only the C4 that its attached to in the photo.


The red and black one is a low mount starter 200, made from 1981 to 1983. Unless the Mexican market Fox body Fords were different to USA's, its been painted differently to the original grey it should have been. It has the 81 exhaust, the 1946 Holley 1-bbl, and if you want to buy it, buy it with the transmission, and you'll need to swap the sump.
 
:?: Might that be a C5, not a C4?
And if it has a low mount starter why can he not put his manual transmission behind it?
 
my advice is to buy the early 200, less expensive and a virtually direct bolt in deal. the later 200/3.3l from the fairmont will require more work and expense to install it in your falcon.
 
Go with the early 200, it's cheaper and a drop in replacement compared to the red/black engine.

The red/black engine is a low mount starter 200, not a 250. If you purchased it, not only would it cost you $350 more, you would have to find/purchase a standard bellhousing for that engine (hard to find), or do the V8 bellhousing/250 flywheel-clutch conversion.
 
Thank you everyone :D I'll get the blue one.

Xtasy:

I'll place that motor on a 1964 ford falcon sedan.
Actually i have a top loader manual transmission and i want to keep that one.
 
Hello Kaiser, sounds like you already have a fairly good combo of parts in the 170! The 200 will be even better, you might check to see if you have right distributor in your 170 if it's still the old style (LOD stocker) then you are giving up lots of performance with it hooked up to the 2V Holley. You need to at least get a 1968 up distributor or a Dura Spark II to unlock all the performance. Good luck :nod:
 
bubba22349":15pdzcfl said:
Hello Kaiser, sounds like you already have a fairly good combo of parts in the 170! The 200 will be even better, you might check to see if you have right distributor in your 170 if it's still the old style (LOD stocker) then you are giving up lots of performance with it hooked up to the 2V Holley. You need to at least get a 1968 up distributor or a Dura Spark II to unlock all the performance. Good luck :nod:

you reminded me of something bubba, kaiser check your distributor carefully and make sure it is a later model distributor, IE post 1964. the reason for that is ford made a running change in the distributor shaft diameter, the later ones are larger, and thus the early distributor will have issues in the later block with spark scatter. you would also need the early style oil pump and oil pump drive shaft, which again are smaller than the later ones.
 
Ok i ll check all of this, anyway the engine comes with all the external items, like the starter, alternator, distributor and carburetor...

In the future I'm planing to upgrade the ignition system as well, but for now only pertronix system with a 60k coil.

I'll be sharing pictures and advances of my project
 
Hi again guys, I already buy the early 200 engine, and the next Saturday I'm planing to begin the 2V job and the porting on the head, and then i have some more questions,

1.- I'm planning to install larger valves, 1.5&1.75. Originally I'm planning to buy the valves from classic inlines web store, but as some of you know i live at México city and i will have to pay the shipment and the taxes of my country as i do previously with other items no available at Mexico like the headers and the aluminum valve cover, camshaft kit, etc. And i was reading a little about here and there over internet and find that i can use simple Chevrolet valves (i don't know if they are the same of classicinlines), then if possible can anyone tell me what Chevrolet valves i have to buy at autozone for example :D fortunately the part numbers from autozone mexico and usa are the same, and they have almost everything available, also i have to use 302 valve retainers with the stock locks right?

2.-Its almost the same, but for pistons, i think i can use the ford tempo or mercury topaz 2.3L HSC flat top pistons and rings, after checking the bore of my block, could be ok if i simple order the pistons and rings from autozone?

3.- What are Piston-to-Deck clearance by default on a 200 block, i need to know to plan my setup for CR because will be more easily for me to simple install the flat top pistons and mill the head accordingly, to get between 9.1/9.5 to 1 CR i ll be using felpro head gaskets

4.-Do you know if are available a rubber rear main seal? here all are from simple Nitrile and my felpro full gaskets set come with that seals :( http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f ... /make/ford says rubber but i don't know :P

For the records to complete my project i already have:

  • 264/264h camshaft package with lifters from classic inlines,
    302 springs
    adjustable valve rockets from my 170cid or non-adjustable from the 200 buyed haha
    holley 2300 carburetor
    dual outlet headers
    a top loader 4speed manual transmission
    a lot of of shiny and vanity items like oil cooler, coolant tank and aluminum radiator, etc...

Thank you in advance and best wishes and rides :D
 
kaiser":2iuperty said:
1.- I'm planning to install larger valves, 1.5&1.75. Originally I'm planning to buy the valves from classic inlines web store, but as some of you know i live at México city and i will have to pay the shipment and the taxes of my country as i do previously with other items no available at Mexico like the headers and the aluminum valve cover, camshaft kit, etc. And i was reading a little about here and there over internet and find that i can use simple Chevrolet valves (i don't know if they are the same of classicinlines), then if possible can anyone tell me what Chevrolet valves i have to buy at autozone for example :D fortunately the part numbers from autozone mexico and usa are the same, and they have almost everything available, also i have to use 302 valve retainers with the stock locks right?

ok for most chevy small blocks the stock exhaust valve is a 1.5" valve. the stock intake is generally a 1.75 or 1.94 depending on what engine you are looking at. as i recall the 265 used the 1.75 intake. autozone should have the valve specs listed. you should be able to use the 302 retainers as long as they have the same angle as the keepers, however you are probably going to have to use the chevy keepers. order them in the 7 degree style.

2.-Its almost the same, but for pistons, i think i can use the ford tempo or mercury topaz 2.3L HSC flat top pistons and rings, after checking the bore of my block, could be ok if i simple order the pistons and rings from autozone?

yes you can order the pistons from autozone as well. be aware though that you will be getting cast replacement pistons. if you have the option, get the better quality TRW pistons.

3.- What are Piston-to-Deck clearance by default on a 200 block, i need to know to plan my setup for CR because will be more easily for me to simple install the flat top pistons and mill the head accordingly, to get between 9.1/9.5 to 1 CR i ll be using felpro head gaskets

i believe the stock deck clearance is listed at .002". however you want to measure when you do your initial assembly to mock the engine up. you only need to install one piston to make your measurements, and check clearances.

4.-Do you know if are available a rubber rear main seal? here all are from simple Nitrile and my felpro full gaskets set come with that seals :( http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f ... /make/ford says rubber but i don't know :P

nitrile is a form of rubber, so i would go ahead and use them.
 
kaiser":24xs9dod said:
.....
1.- I'm planning to install larger valves, 1.5&1.75. Originally I'm planning to buy the valves from classic inlines web store, but as some of you know i live at México city and i will have to pay the shipment and the taxes of my country as i do previously with other items no available at Mexico like the headers and the aluminum valve cover, camshaft kit, etc. And i was reading a little about here and there over internet and find that i can use simple Chevrolet valves (i don't know if they are the same of classicinlines), then if possible can anyone tell me what Chevrolet valves i have to buy at autozone for example :D fortunately the part numbers from autozone mexico and usa are the same, and they have almost everything available, also i have to use 302 valve retainers with the stock locks right?

2.-Its almost the same, but for pistons, i think i can use the ford tempo or mercury topaz 2.3L HSC flat top pistons and rings, after checking the bore of my block, could be ok if i simple order the pistons and rings from autozone?

3.- What are Piston-to-Deck clearance by default on a 200 block, i need to know to plan my setup for CR because will be more easily for me to simple install the flat top pistons and mill the head accordingly, to get between 9.1/9.5 to 1 CR i ll be using felpro head gaskets

4.-Do you know if are available a rubber rear main seal? here all are from simple Nitrile and my felpro full gaskets set come with that seals :( http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f ... /make/ford says rubber but i don't know :P

For the records to complete my project i already have:

  • 264/264h camshaft package with lifters from classic inlines,
    302 springs
    adjustable valve rockets from my 170cid or non-adjustable from the 200 buyed haha
    holley 2300 carburetor
    dual outlet headers
    a top loader 4speed manual transmission
    a lot of of shiny and vanity items like oil cooler, coolant tank and aluminum radiator, etc...

Thank you in advance and best wishes and rides :D


Unless there is a track record of part failure, support the US parts Classic Inlines or Summit sells. In additon, the Falcon Six hand book.


I differ from some of it, because of the info from a few old cheating racers down here how found the log head a very easy nut to crack with six 1-1/4" frost plugs and JB Weld....


The only issue I have is the four board members I've named whos engines suffered Silvorlite 1185 piston failure. I therefore don't recommend that HSC piston for a performance under any circumstances.

I'm 100% behind Classic Inlines, if they sell 1185's, then they have a supplier deal worked out which will make good any instances of failure of that piston.

I have used a similar to Sivolite 3328H piston in 22.9 cc form in my LPG Cross flow, and have seen some very old, very large millage, very thrashed Australian 20 and 40 thou over 200's with this piston, my 1967 XR and my 1972 XA 200 both run this kind, and despite its unwelded skirt, its very, very tough. Its now a US sourced piston.



In Australia, we have very brave people who have tried some excellent non Ford parts, and gotten away with it, but you don't have the same options in US or Mexico.

As an example, in the past on our 250 2V's used cut down over size Yella Terra Diamond CNC valves from the 253/304/308 4.2 to 5.0 liter Holden V8, it allows us to use these taller 5.16" valves in 1.78 and 1.5" sizes, very close to being too big, but they allow you to put extended , up to 410 tou longer pushrods and space up the rocker shafts and use really long up to 1.9" installed height springs so you can slap in a big lift cam that can make more than the normal 470 thou before piston contact limit you have on a US 200. Our 250 use the common deep dish pistons from Duralite or ACL which are as little as 15.6 to as much as 27.9 cc, and that eliminates the prosepct of valve to piston clash. They don't fly appart at high revs like the US aftermarket Tempo pistons sometimes do. The GMH ( Holden) guys, with there little 179, 186 and 202 L6's used to employ 283 Chevy valve springs with about 275 thou specially shaved off the spring platforms, and used to use the aftermarket long valve 283 intake and exhaust valves. In each case, the valve guides needed to be K lined to the V8 size, and that takes care of all the spring bind disasters of the stock Ford I6 or GMH L6 rocker gear had. I myself have used bullet proof M110 280 E Benz valves and customized the rocker gear and use lash caps to make the whole valve gear Holden height, 5.16" That allows FE 427 style end supports for the rocker gear, as like the FE V8s, the same engine designers left the outer exhaust valves unsupported


You don't have any of those options above, so:-


1. Since you have the excellent and reliable 264 Clay Smith cam, you might as well use the smaller valve guide valves, and use the 75 years of Clay Smith cam knowledge. The SI valves are really your only option, you could cut down GM L6 or 300 I6 ones, but you then have a legion of issues with valve guides, retainers and you risk a lot of problems.


2. I support US pistons, but not in the instance of using any US HSC Silvolite 1185 pistons in a Ford Six, but instead use the US sourced 3328H 8cc dish 2.987" by 71 thou deep piston, its an an Aussie non cross flow 250 piston designed for extreme duty in cross flow 4.1's. Its a 255 style V8 piston. Despite what it says on page 33, its a better piston that the potentially flawed 2.3 HSC item. See http://www.uempistons.com/catalogs/silv ... atalog.pdf


3. The default deck heigth is about 16 to 25 thou on the 200, the blueprint deck is 7.803 to 7.809 to get a zero deck with 1.51" piston compression heights and 4.715" rods with a 3.126" stroke. But FoMoCo made them as tall as 7.834"


I'm not like others here, I don't believe in decking a 3.3 or 4.1 block unless your really smart. I'm not smart enough, becasue I've seen cracks with decked blocks. The 200 needs room for piston and rod growth at revs, I'd personally always use an early 170 head with its nice thick deck and 30% higher air flow due to its chamber. When deshorded and equiped with the later large valves, and then after absolutely go nuts with a mill, you'll havea a great head.

Later 170, 200 and 250 heads have a blueprint thickness of 187 thou according to Ak Miller, and you can't take 120 thou of those without potentially seeing water. The early small logs are very thick, and you

a) can open the runners up with a good direct mount 2-bbl conversion. They only have 1.125" internal ports, but what you loose in air speed at the manifold, you win at the combustion chamber. You can intensivley port them by opening six 1-1/4" holes in the top of the heads 'log' intake casting, and open all six ports out in the top long turn radius to almost 1 1/2" The short turn radus can stay as it is. The later big log head uses 1-1/4" frost plugs in the log head ends, and these can be punched back in the small log head after porting. The large log heads have the wrong shape, they are upside down LSx cathedral ports which create short side radius flow restrictions.

and

b) you can go shave it 120, right down to about 33 c chamber volume, or open and deshroud the chambers for the 1.75/1.5" vlaves, and sit at 48 cc and with a 25 thou piston short fall and another 71 thou below the valves with that 8cc piston, you won't make piston to valve contact, but will still be able to reach any target compression with a 45 to 50 thou composite gasket...9.06:1 or 11.63:1.

c) Since there are great exhaust systems and excellent flowing valves, you can ompromise on exhaust flow and valve size...you don't have to go to 1.5" exhaust valves, the seat to water gallery for these on stock iron heads has always been a bit thin, more so with Aussie heads than US ones, but still, be carefull to avoid water. The Schnider and Clay Smith split duration cams exist for this purpose.

4.The pin for the old rope seal, if equiped, needs to be removed, and the Summit rear mani seal goes right on in. The procedure is detailed in the 1981 to 1982 B code 3.3 Ford service pages, see http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 816068.pdf
 
thanks xctacy and rbohm.

In Australia, we have very brave people who have tried some excellent non Ford parts, and gotten away with it, but you don't have the same options in US or Mexico.

Well in fact i have less options than US six lovers haha, at least here in Mexico for now i don't know any other than me haha, maybe I'm the only crazy mexican trying something different from the classic and easy V8 swap, but i want to be different anyway ;)

The SI valves are really your only option, you could cut down GM L6 or 300 I6 ones, but you then have a legion of issues with valve guides, retainers and you risk a lot of problems.


I'll do the efforts to get the valves from classic inlines then :D i want to avoid the troubles of more machining hahaha, in the end will be more cheap if I import the valves. I ll get 1.46/1.75 valves better haha

As for the pistons i think classic inlines sells the "Sealed Power Cast Pistons" so the ones from autozone are the same, do you think that i can have problems with a normal daily driving at low rpm? i don't think i will go over 5800 a lot :P
 
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