kaiser":24xs9dod said:
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1.- I'm planning to install larger valves, 1.5&1.75. Originally I'm planning to buy the valves from classic inlines web store, but as some of you know i live at México city and i will have to pay the shipment and the taxes of my country as i do previously with other items no available at Mexico like the headers and the aluminum valve cover, camshaft kit, etc. And i was reading a little about here and there over internet and find that i can use simple Chevrolet valves (i don't know if they are the same of classicinlines), then if possible can anyone tell me what Chevrolet valves i have to buy at autozone for example

fortunately the part numbers from autozone mexico and usa are the same, and they have almost everything available, also i have to use 302 valve retainers with the stock locks right?
2.-Its almost the same, but for pistons, i think i can use the ford tempo or mercury topaz 2.3L HSC flat top pistons and rings, after checking the bore of my block, could be ok if i simple order the pistons and rings from autozone?
3.- What are Piston-to-Deck clearance by default on a 200 block, i need to know to plan my setup for CR because will be more easily for me to simple install the flat top pistons and mill the head accordingly, to get between 9.1/9.5 to 1 CR i ll be using felpro head gaskets
4.-Do you know if are available a rubber rear main seal? here all are from simple Nitrile and my felpro full gaskets set come with that seals
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f ... /make/ford says rubber but i don't know
For the records to complete my project i already have:
- 264/264h camshaft package with lifters from classic inlines,
302 springs
adjustable valve rockets from my 170cid or non-adjustable from the 200 buyed haha
holley 2300 carburetor
dual outlet headers
a top loader 4speed manual transmission
a lot of of shiny and vanity items like oil cooler, coolant tank and aluminum radiator, etc...
Thank you in advance and best wishes and rides
Unless there is a track record of part failure, support the US parts Classic Inlines or Summit sells. In additon, the Falcon Six hand book.
I differ from some of it, because of the info from a few old cheating racers down here how found the log head a very easy nut to crack with six 1-1/4" frost plugs and JB Weld....
The only issue I have is the four board members I've named whos engines suffered Silvorlite 1185 piston failure. I therefore
don't recommend that HSC piston for a performance under any circumstances.
I'm 100% behind Classic Inlines, if they sell 1185's, then they have a supplier deal worked out which will make good any instances of failure of that piston.
I have used a similar to Sivolite 3328H piston in 22.9 cc form in my LPG Cross flow, and have seen some very old, very large millage, very thrashed Australian 20 and 40 thou over 200's with this piston, my 1967 XR and my 1972 XA 200 both run this kind, and despite its unwelded skirt, its very, very tough. Its now a US sourced piston.
In Australia, we have very brave people who have tried some excellent non Ford parts, and gotten away with it, but you don't have the same options in US or Mexico.
As an example, in the past on our 250 2V's used cut down over size Yella Terra Diamond CNC valves from the 253/304/308 4.2 to 5.0 liter Holden V8, it allows us to use these taller 5.16" valves in 1.78 and 1.5" sizes, very close to being too big, but they allow you to put extended , up to 410 tou longer pushrods and space up the rocker shafts and use really long up to 1.9" installed height springs so you can slap in a big lift cam that can make more than the normal 470 thou before piston contact limit you have on a US 200. Our 250 use the common deep dish pistons from Duralite or ACL which are as little as 15.6 to as much as 27.9 cc, and that eliminates the prosepct of valve to piston clash. They don't fly appart at high revs like the US aftermarket Tempo pistons sometimes do. The GMH ( Holden) guys, with there little 179, 186 and 202 L6's used to employ 283 Chevy valve springs with about 275 thou specially shaved off the spring platforms, and used to use the aftermarket long valve 283 intake and exhaust valves. In each case, the valve guides needed to be K lined to the V8 size, and that takes care of all the spring bind disasters of the stock Ford I6 or GMH L6 rocker gear had. I myself have used bullet proof M110 280 E Benz valves and customized the rocker gear and use lash caps to make the whole valve gear Holden height, 5.16" That allows FE 427 style end supports for the rocker gear, as like the FE V8s, the same engine designers left the outer exhaust valves unsupported
You
don't have any of those options above, so:-
1. Since you have the excellent and reliable 264 Clay Smith cam, you might as well use the smaller valve guide valves, and use the 75 years of Clay Smith cam knowledge. The SI valves are really your only option, you could cut down GM L6 or 300 I6 ones, but you then have a legion of issues with valve guides, retainers and you risk a
lot of problems.
2. I support US pistons, but not in the instance of using any US HSC Silvolite 1185 pistons in a Ford Six, but instead use the US sourced 3328H 8cc dish 2.987" by 71 thou deep piston, its an an Aussie non cross flow 250 piston designed for extreme duty in cross flow 4.1's. Its a 255 style V8 piston. Despite what it says on page 33, its a better piston that the potentially flawed 2.3 HSC item. See
http://www.uempistons.com/catalogs/silv ... atalog.pdf
3. The default deck heigth is about 16 to 25 thou on the 200, the blueprint deck is 7.803 to 7.809 to get a zero deck with 1.51" piston compression heights and 4.715" rods with a 3.126" stroke. But FoMoCo made them as tall as 7.834"
I'm not like others here, I don't believe in decking a 3.3 or 4.1 block unless your really smart. I'm not smart enough, becasue I've seen cracks with decked blocks. The 200 needs room for piston and rod growth at revs, I'd personally always use an early 170 head with its nice thick deck and 30% higher air flow due to its chamber. When deshorded and equiped with the later large valves, and then after absolutely go nuts with a mill, you'll havea a great head.
Later 170, 200 and 250 heads have a blueprint thickness of 187 thou according to Ak Miller, and you can't take 120 thou of those without potentially seeing water. The early small logs are very thick, and you
a) can open the runners up with a good direct mount 2-bbl conversion. They only have 1.125" internal ports, but what you loose in air speed at the manifold, you win at the combustion chamber. You
can intensivley port them by opening six 1-1/4" holes in the top of the heads 'log' intake casting, and open all six ports out in the top long turn radius to almost 1 1/2" The short turn radus can stay as it is. The later big log head uses 1-1/4" frost plugs in the log head ends, and these can be punched back in the small log head after porting. The large log heads have the wrong shape, they are upside down LSx cathedral ports which create short side radius flow restrictions.
and
b) you can go shave it 120, right down to about 33 c chamber volume, or open and deshroud the chambers for the 1.75/1.5" vlaves, and sit at 48 cc and with a 25 thou piston short fall and another 71 thou below the valves with that 8cc piston, you won't make piston to valve contact, but will still be able to reach any target compression with a 45 to 50 thou composite gasket...9.06:1 or 11.63:1.
c) Since there are great exhaust systems and excellent flowing valves, you can ompromise on exhaust flow and valve size...you don't have to go to 1.5" exhaust valves, the seat to water gallery for these on stock iron heads has always been a bit thin, more so with Aussie heads than US ones, but still, be carefull to avoid water. The Schnider and Clay Smith split duration cams exist for this purpose.
4.The pin for the old rope seal, if equiped, needs to be removed, and the Summit rear mani seal goes right on in. The procedure is detailed in the 1981 to 1982 B code 3.3 Ford service pages, see
http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 816068.pdf