I can't say too much because you guys will build killer sixes before I do!
The key thing is to forget entirely about electronics and OHC's and DOHC's and factory turbos for the next five years. Everyone is trying to get the buts out of X-riger Blackwoods, and the best thing to do is avoid EA to AU's until the electronic industry gives customers what they want. I don't see any of that at present.
The best opertunities are the reworked Propane bomb!
The first thing is to get any good condition XD, E, or F. Don't deviate fro the stock discs/drum or disc/disc set=ups unless you need to for registration purposes, Forget complicated aftermarket systems, just rework the stoc set-up. Look at the maintenace, and get repaceement parts that are the same as the orginals. Don't scalpal the old Falcons becasue the cheapest part is the stock one.
If it is 3.3, get a 4.1 crank. If it is EFI, lay asside the EFI, and revert to carb, but keep the EFI gear..Get three Impco CA 125 or LPF 150 forklift carbs on it by adding two outer 1.75" flanges to the stock XD log type intake manifold.
Use two L-series converters, and keep the air con, power steering, and the stock auto shifter, if it has one. Most did.
Then add a cam which emulates the AU XR6 VVT cam for lift and duration. Stick with a wide lobe centre. Get carbon fibre pushrods and adjustable Phase 3 style 7/16" rocker posts with posilocks, and 1.8:1 ratio rockers. Forget roller tips unless you get a good price, or can't get the 1.8 ratio without it.
Redo the valves to DYNOED250 style Clevleland stainless items cut down to 1.96" Do basic port cleaning, but leave a good guide, a good seating margin, and foeget about the rest.
Then add an Anti Detonation Igniton (ADI) system using 49% methonal and 49% water, , 1% acetone, and a small spike of ethel methal ketone to stop bugs and particulates forming. Use the stock six port nitrous fogger nozels, and have the auxilary ciruit which is used for nitrous as the ADI cicuit on the street. The best option is to take the stock XF intake gasket and make a 19 mm alloy adaptor which allows the nitrous nozzles to fit at the same position the EFI injectors would sit. You can cut the pre EFI heads to fit the pocket that EFI engines had. This allows the nitrous, ADI, and fuel hit the back of the intake valve and cool it. That way, anytime you have to drive on the street, you can delete the nitrous circuit, and ensure the whollapers never t get you for illegal nitrous use on the street.
The pistons need to be Nismo 4.0 items, which are Subaru blanks made to the 3.612" Falcon turbo size, but forged. Then bore out the block to D-series Fod liner size, about 3.726" fomr memory, then sleave the block, and you can use all sorts of cheap high grade iron liners from anything from an early D-series Ford truck, to a Pug deisel or custom drillers pipe. Use the aftermarket 6.1" Chevy conrods. Dont mess about with anything else.
Then add an absolutely ugly J-tube on the stock cast iron header, and rig up a big tractor or truck T04.
Then build it to a low C/R or 7.5:1, and add the nitrous bottle only off the street.
There is no intercooler, and peak boost is 9 pounds, no more.
Rework a stock igniton unit with an external control module whic is tayloered to suit a 25 degree total advance under nitrous, 30 under just the turbo, and a stock 9 degree intial lead at 800 to 1200 rpm.
The XF knock sensor locked out totlal advance under some situations, so it s possible to make a set-up like this. Stick with the stock ingnito cap and body. If its XF, rework the external EST module by getting a good aftermarket unit which you can replace if it goes dead. Solid state ingition inits are failing, and car makers get payed crap loads in premiums. Telstar V6 systems are up to the 700 dollar mark, so spend on only a set-up which allows the correct advnace curve. XE systmes are the best, but don't ditch the stock unit, rework the controller.
The trick is to use the water, methonal, and LPG to create a low boost, high power engine that never has do do more than 5800 rpm, and only needs less than 5500 at the drags.
Despite the fact that a lot of my bablings look complicated, this one isn't. The car stays stock.
Only other changes are a mandatory Chevy or Ford 4-stage over drive trans, and a good aftermarket set of axles and diff gears. A set of 3.7 or 3.9 or 4.11's would do the job if you used some bigger rear tyres.
The trick here is that a stock 4.1 emulates an AU XR6, and could get about 200 hp with the triple carbs, piston and cam and head modes alone if it had 10:1 compression.
The turbo wouldn't give more than 280 hp on the engine on the street without the ADI, but on the track, you can boost it up to 9 psi with the nitrous, and get over 500 hp. The 280 hp isn't ruinied by having to drag 1.8 tonnes around like the BA's do. 280 hp with a 1390 to 1525 kg XD-XF would be fine for 1.4.7 second quarters if done right.
Is it possible to upload directly to this forum??
