Help With I-6

[Anonymous]

Please Help! I just purchased what was supposed to be a 1964 1/2 Mustang but it turns out it's a '65. Oh well I can live with that as I have always loved the body style. BUT, to add insult to injury it won't run and has no brakes. Okay I guess I am a little nieve and got took. 2 problems. #1 it starts but won't run or idle. #2 no brakes, the pedal goes to the floor!. It appears to have good plug wires, rotor, distributor cap and correctly gapped plugs and I took the fuel line off the carb and it pumps fuel out like crazy when cranked. It's a 200 six with auto trans. Could someone please help! Thanks, Andy from Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

 

[Asa]

have you actually tried to see if you have spark? or are you just commenting on the status of how the equipment looks?

as for the brakes, do you have fluid in the system?

if you could give more info, it would help

 

[addo]

^ Andy, that's his way of saying "Welcome to the Forum".

Everyone gets had on a car in their life at some time... We'll try to help you make the most of whatcha got.

Look under the car for signs of fluid leakage, also inside below the pedals. When my master failed, the fluid ran inside on the floor.

BTW, welcome to the forum... :roll:

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Asa]

oh yeah....


HI!!!!!!!

 

[xctasy]

Hi!!!!

Do a search of Ash427's posts. Sometimes, a classic is hard to work on at every turn, but don't give up! A Stang is a true classic, and sixes are becoming more of an asset than a liability. There is so much help here. I'm sure it will turn out okay!

Sometimes there seams to be no answer at all, but even with 2500 people here, it still takes time to work through things.

 

[CobraSix]

How do you know it's not a 64.5? they had a "5" as the first number in the VIN just like teh 65s. Technically, they all are 65s, Ford never made a 64.5. What is the 5th place hold? If it's a T, then you have a 65 6 cylinder, if it's a U, then you have a 64.5 170 6 cylinder.

to your problems:

1) Honestly, I would go buy a rebuilt carb. If you don't know the condition of your carb, don't even mess with it IMHO. a rebuilt 1V carb is $80 US. It will negate the carb as being a source of any problems. Generally, my advice upon buying a car that isn't running, get a rebuilt carb right away. It will solve a lot of problems, now, and later.

2) I would start by checking fluid level. Then top it off, and test. If still no brakes, try bleeding the MC and brake lines. If that doesn't do it, your MC is probably shot.

Slade

 

[rbohm]

8) pull a plug wire, insert a plug in it and ground the shell of the plug. have someone crank the engine and see what kind of spark you get. if you get a nice blue spark then the ignition system is working, and you can concentrate on the carb. i would however install fresh plugs and point as a matter of course.

as to the brakes, check the fluid level, but i suspect that you have a bad master cylinder.

 

[Lazy JW]

Howdy and welcome to the forum 8)
You mentioned that it starts but won't run. I take that to mean that the engine will fire but dies soon after. Does it die as soon as you let off the starter? If so, then you may have a problem in the "run" circuit of the ignition. I believe that your car has a ballast resistor in the run circuit to limit the amount of current flowing through the points in order to prevent premature burning. If this resistor is burned out or the wiring to it is bad, then you will lose spark as soon as you let off the key from the start position. A faulty ignition switch could cause the same symptom.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

I hope you got it for a good price....

welcome to the best, most helpful website on the web

 

[Anonymous]

As for more info on the problems #1 the motor will fire and run breifly but then just dies out. If I let the motor sit for about 60 seconds it again will fire, run for about 5 seconds and die again regardless of how much I pump the gas pedal. The fuel pump looks new and I followed the lines back to the gas tank and they seem to be in good shape. Strangely enough when the motor is warm (after about 2 dozen stalls) the motor will idle but if I try to rev it up it seems to "starve" for fuel and cut out again. I have pulled a plug and am getting good spark. #2 the brakes. Are they really that important, I mean they just slow you down! Just kidding there is fluid in the MC and when I pump the pedal it will build pressure eventually but looses pressure just as quick. I can't see any leeks but the car is grungy on the underside and it doesn't run well enough to take it to the car wash for a good de-grease.

It has "T" for an engine code so it's a 65 200 rite? I love this car and always wanted one and finally found one I could afford. It didn't have a battery in it when my wife and I went to look at it but the guy I bought it from assured me that that was all it needed to run. Also the front signal lights are there but don't work because the wires have been cut. Strange? The guy delivered it from his farm to my house in town here and it arrived later than when prommised and is missing the interior carpet and 2 hubcaps. Also strange. Unfortunalty the bill of sale says "sold as is". OK so life gives you lemons make lemonade! Thanks for all your support, Andy.

 

[Lazy JW]

I hope you're in this for the long haul, because this may take a while How old is the fuel? If it has been sitting for a long time, the tank really should be cleaned out thoroughly by steam cleaning or something similar. Trying to skip this very important step will just lead to grief, believe me. Blow out the fuel line, and replace any fuel filters. Then check the flow (volume) of fuel delivered from the pump while cranking. Until you get a good supply of clean fuel from the pump to the carburetor, there won't be any need for brakes Then do the electrical tuneup, points, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If the coil looks like the original, replace it too. Whew! When you get good fuel delivery and good spark, then you can get into whether or not you need a new carburetor or maybe just rebuild the old one. Good luck,
Joe

 

[CobraSix]

Sounds like you have air in the brake lines.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

i suppose to see how clean the fuel is u could pump some into a jar or get a clear fuel fileter to check...if the fuel that u get is clean then i'd say wait till the car is running till u clean out the tank (just my opinion, and i have'nt much experience) for sure get a rebuilt carb as i currently have 3 different carbs and the Carter RBA which i rebuilt, but haven't set up properly gives the same problem u describe....It will run but for only a little while and as soon as i try to give it gas, it dies...I also had a problem once with my coil/timing...first i thought it was the timing chain...it ran then slowly got worse then died....it was the high ignition coil..it died...also, the timing was way advanced and when i put on the new stock coil it wouldnt run..so i backed off the timing...i think my post is a little long...whatever...replace the carb, check the timing, do whatever these other guys tell you and enjoy your lemonade

Dave

 

[addo]

The "pressure builds with pumping, then drops away" is symptomatic of leaky parts. I'd swap the MC for a dual to start with, and work back from there.

 

[rbohm]

8) you fuel problem sounds like a clogged line or filter most likely. also if the carb hasnt been touched for awhile you might rebuild or replace it.

as to the brakes, the master cylinder sounds like it has an internal leak and it needs replacing. like addo said replace it with a dual m/c.