Engine block electrolysis

Interesting! sure seems like it would significantly alter the jetting. The design flow through the booster is nearly reversed. Unless I'm seeing the drawing wrong.
 
Interesting! sure seems like it would significantly alter the jetting. The design flow through the booster is nearly reversed. Unless I'm seeing the drawing wrong.
The way it works....instead of the tube squirting gas down the venturi...the tube is redirected upward and the gas hits the underside of the concave "umbrella" disk. The underside of the disk can have channels going from the center of the disk to the outer edge of the disk.

I think the gas would atomize better if the edge of the disk were very thin or razor like.
One type of disk is formed from a mold using Buna-N rubber. Another type of disk is made out of stainless (which I think is a better idea...being able to sharpen the outer edge to razor-like...what the heck do I know lol)
You can download the full patent here if you like:


My thoughts.....this really was used by a few people in the 70's....and after almost all cars were equipped with F.I. and ECMs by 1990....the powers that be decided to release the patent figuring no one would be interested in it.
Heck....I could be wrong...maybe.

I know gas vapor in the carb body is a bad thing (vapor lock)...but gas vapor in the manifold...can't see how that would be bad.
Except for a backfire......where the heck did that manifold and carb go?

I thought about posting this info under the "Carburetor" thread...but didn't want to get laughed off the forum.....yet.
 
The way it works....instead of the tube squirting gas down the venturi...the tube is redirected upward and the gas hits the underside of the concave "umbrella" disk. The underside of the disk can have channels going from the center of the disk to the outer edge of the disk.

I think the gas would atomize better if the edge of the disk were very thin or razor like.
One type of disk is formed from a mold using Buna-N rubber. Another type of disk is made out of stainless (which I think is a better idea...being able to sharpen the outer edge to razor-like...what the heck do I know lol)
You can download the full patent here if you like:


My thoughts.....this really was used by a few people in the 70's....and after almost all cars were equipped with F.I. and ECMs by 1990....the powers that be decided to release the patent figuring no one would be interested in it.
Heck....I could be wrong...maybe.

I know gas vapor in the carb body is a bad thing (vapor lock)...but gas vapor in the manifold...can't see how that would be bad.
Except for a backfire......where the heck did that manifold and carb go?

I thought about posting this info under the "Carburetor" thread...but didn't want to get laughed off the forum.....yet.
No, it's better being posted on your thread, or start a new one.
The only thing I can say to it is: in my experience with flowing fluids (extensive- water and air), I would propose that a sharp edge will tear the gas apart less than an edge with a rough lip. As the transition of fuel past the edge of the disk into the airstream occurs, the less "organized" the fuel is at the moment it strikes the air, the better. Coming off the disk in a smooth undisturbed stream vs coming off the disk having to have just tumbled over a lip. The lip seems better for breaking it up. Smooth is for those fancy water fountains. If water fall off the face of a smooth curved surface it stays in a sheet much longer than if it is tumbling when it falls.
The area directly under the traditional booster which feeds fuel acts to pull the fuel outward, increasing mixing and atomization. The disk design- just looking at it- seems less efficient at atomization. . . just surmising. .
 
No, it's better being posted on your thread, or start a new one.
The only thing I can say to it is: in my experience with flowing fluids (extensive- water and air), I would propose that a sharp edge will tear the gas apart less than an edge with a rough lip. As the transition of fuel past the edge of the disk into the airstream occurs, the less "organized" the fuel is at the moment it strikes the air, the better. Coming off the disk in a smooth undisturbed stream vs coming off the disk having to have just tumbled over a lip. The lip seems better for breaking it up. Smooth is for those fancy water fountains. If water fall off the face of a smooth curved surface it stays in a sheet much longer than if it is tumbling when it falls.
The area directly under the traditional booster which feeds fuel acts to pull the fuel outward, increasing mixing and atomization. The disk design- just looking at it- seems less efficient at atomization. . . just surmising. .
Thanks for the heads up on posting. Not really good on the edict when it comes to forums and not into social media much at all.
As far as the disk edge...one way to find out for sure.
I get what you're saying about smooth for the water fountains....but the downdraft and vacuum might have a different effect.
I'd like to play around with it but won't be getting around to it for some time. I might have to end up selling the house next year.
Not sure where I'd go to but out of ill-inois for sure. Property tax and water/sewer are way too high...just can't afford it here any more.
 
Thanks for the heads up on posting. Not really good on the edict when it comes to forums and not into social media much at all.
As far as the disk edge...one way to find out for sure.
I get what you're saying about smooth for the water fountains....but the downdraft and vacuum might have a different effect.
I'd like to play around with it but won't be getting around to it for some time. I might have to end up selling the house next year.
Not sure where I'd go to but out of ill-inois for sure. Property tax and water/sewer are way too high...just can't afford it here any more.
No luck with the compression test...thought I could spin the crank with an impact wrench - no go. With all the plugs out it turns by hand like it should. Never tried a C.T. without a flywheel and a starter before. I'll go with my first plan and open her up...48 years old it could probably use a little freshening up.
 
ive been using similar process mainly smaller parts.

- make sure your parts don't touch, i melted down a battery that way, normally I use a charger now but it can blow the charger, you might add a fuse.


bolting the electrode can work or sometimes Ill solder a wire to the item, otherwise if its just contact by wrapping the contact gets lost, bubbling stops.

I use baking soda for a scrub down, after or in between, its cheap and cleans nicely.

generally I leave it a few sessions checking back on progress. the parts clean better if they are near to the electrode so moving then about helps.

I lay a plastic basket full of holes, from a berry farm inside a tote bin that isolates my parts from electrodes int he bottom.

be really carful about stainless, you mentioned noxious gasses and Ive read people using stainless for the electrode, thats dangerous, the fumes produced by stainless can be a factor so I wouldn't put anything stainless in the tub. galvanized, not sure.

ive done it using muriatic acid, talk about bad fumes, it works but the stuff is dangerous and very noxious gases come off.. they will rust anything surrounding too. parts also start rusting immediately after they are out of the bath. muriatic acid also eats aluminum

I did do a lot of small parts that way though, it'll remove rust and paint and it leaves the metal etched. id neutralize it with baking soda, warm it with a torch to drive out moisture then use epoxy the epoxy latches onto the deeply etched metal and grabs so it doesn't rust again.
electrolysis seems a lot less dangerous so far as the chemistry involved but it could give off some nasty poisonous vapors

I bought some pickling paste, it is used to remove rust and only commercially available. Its a very strong acid. I do not recommend it. - too hazardous. I put some coated shiny new washers in there and it gave off bad fumes and started getting hot and smoking. probably also giving off nasty chemical vapors.

another method I want to try you can get a cheap setup it connects to a pressure washer and puts sand into the water stream, so it's wet sandblasting the item. you have to contain the debris somehow.

I'm not pulling my engine but thought I might brush on some of that rust inhibitor, maybe paint later but without engine removal. ive been using it with a little brush on places where rust is appearing but I don't have time to do actual bodywork. it seems to still work and the rust seems to not start back up even with no other coating. you are supposed to wash it off after, then paint,, but I've been leaving it, I can just do a few applications, in summer, then I can clean and paint stuff, too cold now. over winter I can still brush a little of it on in rusty places.. it seems ok to do that.. my truck is white so Id get rust stains running down below any rust.. it seems to help to simply brush on some rust converter like on a scratch or rusty bolt head,, and walk away, Ive been using rust check brand. in some spots Il take a knife and get under the paint as the rust is creeping, then just apply the converter.. when its warm and rust is more under control I'll do some spot paint repairs.

my floor developed a hole, I went at it with an angle grinder and sanding disk , roughly removed loose rust, used rust converter, then washed it down and dried, then I used fiberglass but instead of polyester resin, epoxy resin. for my hole I made a stainless plate and bolted that then used fibreglass on top leveled it out, worked fine no more big hole.
I have rusty rims and just had new tires mounted, can I put the whole tire and rim into a electrolysis bath? dismounting and re-balancing is a couple hundred.. I just want to paint the rims, doesn't need to be perfect.
 
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I got throught he last few years of dyno testing by mounting studded snow tires, then they just did the idle test, they don't like studded snow tires on the dyno emissions testing then ended . I could usually pass the idle test by making it run lean and at a fairly high idle, an unnoticeable hole in the exhaust made some of my cars pass with really low numbers. I remember trying every gimmick just in an attempt to pass my own car, to insure it to get to work.

I'm sure many jury rig their dashboard warning lamps. maybe just make it come on during key on and go off when running. just so an idiot light doesn't cause you to fail your test.
 
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