HELP
- Thread starter gycogburn
- Start date
All the 170's, 200's and 250's with C4's after about 1971 got a really good Allen bolted kickdown lever which is the best in the world. When you bolt on a 5200 or 32/36, you can't use the stock Pinto/Capri C4 or C3 kickdown raided from the donar car of the carb, as the carb is aways on the wrong side, and the kickdown rod for the post 1971 head has to move across the engine bay, and the C3 or C4 or C5 kicdown lever used from the later vehicles. The 5200 has the 1st and 2ndry barrel reversed, the electric, water or manual choke on the other side, and the actuation is opposite to the 32/36 and Weber 38. This means you have to figure out what way the carb has to be mounted to copy the rod or cable accelerator. Case 1 is the stock kickdown rod and rod accelerator, a very good set up. Case 2 is the Fox body rocker cover stirup mount, which is also good, but has a few limits on what direction you can mount the carb.
Since the earlier Fords use the rod operated carb linkage, and the kickdown lever runs off the accelerator rod, we need to use the type that suits.
When we put a 1978 Fox or Granada head on a pre 1971, then the carb actuation needs to copy the earlier Case 1, the earlier rod set up, and move the rod kickdown as per the 1962 to 1968 Ford i6's, OR adapt the stock Case 2 Fox cable and then rock the stock kickdown rod.
In Case 1, the carb needs to sit like this, or some position like it. It can be parallel with the head, or, if you able, 90 degrees to it, but the kickdown lever needs to run of the rod.Care of Mr Salazar, aka bigredraza
The lever operated early round bodies hold the key
The 32/36 carb linkage and secondary position is reversed when compared to the 5200 Holley Weber version. That allows the linkage to work when its arched over the log manifold. Albert Pennello used the 5200 Holley Weber, which is a handed 32/36 DGA Weber. His Clifford set up was like this,
http://www.albertpenello.com/mustang/throttlearm.jpg
Cliffords adaptor eliminates the 16 dgree slew, but the linkage with the 16 degree slew, and the reversed image 32/36 versions on the Weber, allows the linkage to canterlever off the centre of the log like it was made to be.
Landons Stovebolt adaptor put the carb on a 16 degree pitch when used without the stock water heater intermediate part, and it then lost the pivot point.
http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falc ... adap01.jpg
In Case 2, the 32/36 has to be placed with its two barrels at a 90 degree angle to the line of the head so the stock Fox accelerator cable pivots the throttle, and the kickdown lever can run off the stock linkage. The bolts on the head tend to make the adaptor sit on a 16 degree slew.
Since the earlier Fords use the rod operated carb linkage, and the kickdown lever runs off the accelerator rod, we need to use the type that suits.
When we put a 1978 Fox or Granada head on a pre 1971, then the carb actuation needs to copy the earlier Case 1, the earlier rod set up, and move the rod kickdown as per the 1962 to 1968 Ford i6's, OR adapt the stock Case 2 Fox cable and then rock the stock kickdown rod.
In Case 1, the carb needs to sit like this, or some position like it. It can be parallel with the head, or, if you able, 90 degrees to it, but the kickdown lever needs to run of the rod.Care of Mr Salazar, aka bigredraza
The lever operated early round bodies hold the key
The 32/36 carb linkage and secondary position is reversed when compared to the 5200 Holley Weber version. That allows the linkage to work when its arched over the log manifold. Albert Pennello used the 5200 Holley Weber, which is a handed 32/36 DGA Weber. His Clifford set up was like this,
http://www.albertpenello.com/mustang/throttlearm.jpg
Cliffords adaptor eliminates the 16 dgree slew, but the linkage with the 16 degree slew, and the reversed image 32/36 versions on the Weber, allows the linkage to canterlever off the centre of the log like it was made to be.
Landons Stovebolt adaptor put the carb on a 16 degree pitch when used without the stock water heater intermediate part, and it then lost the pivot point.
http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falc ... adap01.jpg
In Case 2, the 32/36 has to be placed with its two barrels at a 90 degree angle to the line of the head so the stock Fox accelerator cable pivots the throttle, and the kickdown lever can run off the stock linkage. The bolts on the head tend to make the adaptor sit on a 16 degree slew.
I'd talk to Mike first up. He probably has some people stateside who can look into it for you. He has suppliers who are keen to help out. In my opinion, if the Case 1 and 2 options don't work for you objectives, then perhapst the excellent quality Locar kickdown is a universal application which will probably sort out most of any crap you have to deal with.
Im a foreigner, so its hard to suggest the two best 'other' alternative options we have down here, but I'll do so.
Option One over in the Ford world over seas, a nice cable kick down was used on some C3's, you can use the 2000 cc, 2300 V6 or 2800 V6 Cortina/Pinto/Capri kickdown cable for 1974 to 1988 foreign market C3's, but its probably too hard to find in the US. Some of your import Lincoln Mercury dealer Capri 2800 engines got the C3 auto, and had a cable kickdown, but I'm not sure how easy it is to find a junked one and grab its cable. The 1979-1980 US Pinto and 1974-1978 Mustang II and first year 1979 Fox Mustang and Capri got that Z code 93 to 109 hp engine with a C3 or C4, but I'm not sure what kickdown it ran.
Option Two is sourced from three different lines of product. Ford Cortina 4 cylinder (69 to 83) or six cylinder, Aussie 1968 to 1993 Falcon six, or early AMC from 1969 to 1973 with the Borg Warner 35 kickdown, also used on AMC's with the 232, 258 I6 and 304 V8 engines with the Borg Warner 35, 40 or 42 automatic from 1968 to 1972.
I've got one, mine works off the stock 1973 Ford Cortina Borg Warner 35 Automatic throttle cable, and pulls a cable kickdown in just like on the cable kickdown C4's used on some US Windsor 255/302 and early 351's.
The Aussie Ford Falcon uses a kickdown cable, it fits the 32/36 and works brilliantly on the cable operated C4
So your best bet is to find a Capri 2800, C3 or C5 automatic Bronco II, Ranger or Aerostar 2.8 V6, and see if it has a cable kickdown, and take its linkage off it. Some times, converting to a cable technically requires a whole specific bell housing which holds the cable line like a clutch linkage, or cobbling up a special steel tab the same thickness as the seperator plate that does the same job.
Im a foreigner, so its hard to suggest the two best 'other' alternative options we have down here, but I'll do so.
Option One over in the Ford world over seas, a nice cable kick down was used on some C3's, you can use the 2000 cc, 2300 V6 or 2800 V6 Cortina/Pinto/Capri kickdown cable for 1974 to 1988 foreign market C3's, but its probably too hard to find in the US. Some of your import Lincoln Mercury dealer Capri 2800 engines got the C3 auto, and had a cable kickdown, but I'm not sure how easy it is to find a junked one and grab its cable. The 1979-1980 US Pinto and 1974-1978 Mustang II and first year 1979 Fox Mustang and Capri got that Z code 93 to 109 hp engine with a C3 or C4, but I'm not sure what kickdown it ran.
Option Two is sourced from three different lines of product. Ford Cortina 4 cylinder (69 to 83) or six cylinder, Aussie 1968 to 1993 Falcon six, or early AMC from 1969 to 1973 with the Borg Warner 35 kickdown, also used on AMC's with the 232, 258 I6 and 304 V8 engines with the Borg Warner 35, 40 or 42 automatic from 1968 to 1972.
I've got one, mine works off the stock 1973 Ford Cortina Borg Warner 35 Automatic throttle cable, and pulls a cable kickdown in just like on the cable kickdown C4's used on some US Windsor 255/302 and early 351's.
The Aussie Ford Falcon uses a kickdown cable, it fits the 32/36 and works brilliantly on the cable operated C4
So your best bet is to find a Capri 2800, C3 or C5 automatic Bronco II, Ranger or Aerostar 2.8 V6, and see if it has a cable kickdown, and take its linkage off it. Some times, converting to a cable technically requires a whole specific bell housing which holds the cable line like a clutch linkage, or cobbling up a special steel tab the same thickness as the seperator plate that does the same job.
