Hole in My new to me block--- Sugestions?

Go ahead and weld it since its not any good with a hole in the block. But before you begin to weld on the block get a junk cast iron head or something of the same material and practice welding on it first. When you weld cast iron, you want to pre heat the area your welding uniformily and no hotter then 1400 degrees feirnheit. When welding cast iron make sure to keep welds minimal. Also hit the weld with a peening hammer after welding. Once you have finished welding cover the area in insulation or burry it in sand. All of these steps are taken to minimze any stress/cracks that can occur when heating/welding cast iron.

-curtis
 
Their is no pre-conceived plan. Thats why I am still waiting and wondering if someone has done this and what they have done. If I had another engine I would use it. But this is not impossible I am sure or going to be that hard. I found the piston - $6. I found the gasket set $21.00. Now a rod. And so rather than waste something that may do just fine, I want to repair for now. Nobody has the repair advice I am looking for yet. I already knew the scrap was an option.

So far the books how to on stitching is the best advice.

When i can get a deal on a block i can work with i will to.
 
Inline6Merc":375u1znz said:
Go ahead and weld it since its not any good with a hole in the block. But before you begin to weld on the block get a junk cast iron head or something of the same material and practice welding on it first. When you weld cast iron, you want to pre heat the area your welding uniformily and no hotter then 1400 degrees feirnheit. When welding cast iron make sure to keep welds minimal. Also hit the weld with a peening hammer after welding. Once you have finished welding cover the area in insulation or burry it in sand. All of these steps are taken to minimze any stress/cracks that can occur when heating/welding cast iron.

-curtis

Thank you. Do you think it should be filled in or a plate over the hole drilled and skrewed as the book mentions and then welded around the edges?
 
Inline6Merc":19ovkv0p said:
Go ahead and weld it since its not any good with a hole in the block. But before you begin to weld on the block get a junk cast iron head or something of the same material and practice welding on it first. When you weld cast iron, you want to pre heat the area your welding uniformily and no hotter then 1400 degrees feirnheit. When welding cast iron make sure to keep welds minimal. Also hit the weld with a peening hammer after welding. Once you have finished welding cover the area in insulation or burry it in sand. All of these steps are taken to minimze any stress/cracks that can occur when heating/welding cast iron.

-curtis

Hes looking at buying cast iron welding rods instead of the typical nickel rod solution.

Supposedly the cast iron welding rods work much better and dont crack.

BTW if that works out give a shout. Those cast iron rods might be the ticket to welding a intake flange on a log head with the intake milled off.

At this point there is zero dollars invested in the block and only your time to waste.

Only outlay is $20 for the welding rods. I spend that much going out with friends on Saturday nights.
 
I would cut out a piece of metal and braze a rod in the center. then fit the piece of metal in the block and pull it tight, using the brazing rod. then tac it in place and continue welding around it. Then just cut the brazing rod off. See if this helps at all:


curtis
 
Anlushac11 brings up a point. Since the rod you plan on using isnt nickel rod, the way of using it could be diffrent then what i suggested. Also another good way is to braze it. I brazed flanges on my head and have been running it for over 2 years know with no cracks. just a thought. Your best bet is to get a junk cast iron maniflod, block, or head and practice with diffrent methods/rods.
 
Thanx. Finally someone hears the question. I will try it from the inside if I can. I'll have to see if there is room with when the crank cycles. Cool, the brazing may be cheeper than the Super rods. This time of year $1 is a lot in the concrete world. All time and no pay.

lol. You even drew me a picture curtis!

I'll let ya know how it turns out. I am getting a engine stand in day or so from my freind and then I will go to town on it.
 
Inline6Merc":2ll5874e said:
dont try and weld from the inside. you always want to weld comfortably. so weld from the outside.

I mean the plate on the inside ehh. :nod:
 
So you your welded block must be junk too??? Sounds like its getting you by.
:)
 
Hey fellas calm down. Just imagine if you lived in the mid west during the early part of the 20th century. when a piece of farming equipment broke they repaired it themselves and it lasted another 50 years. Sometimes you just have to make dew with what you have.
 
I prefer to repair. Just my pref.

But i drive in the mountains a lot. When things go bad you fix it there or walk. Not always bolt on solutions. So if its junk to one, its probly treasure to me still. I fixem and run them into the dirt. Works for me if it works.

Hey any body got a aussie head with scratch paint??? I'll buy it
 
My welded block is junk. As soon as it stops working, it's headed to the recycler. Do what you want to do, I am just letting you know that I think it's a poor choice given the options.

Be sure to come back after you have tried to weld it and update this with pictures. We will see how well this works out for ya. Consider it a challenge :)
 
Copy that. I think I'll get the pic ont the page here in a few minutes. I'll show it to you at the fsp meet if it works. If it dont I'll show ya the new on on the fourth of never when i find one. I already considered it a challenge. :LOL:

Hey how much boost do you have? where is your patch job?

The pic is on the googlepage. Since its a dollar size hole I think I'll try the suggestion to braze it but using a silver dollar. Then I can name the steed old dollar like the dukes horse.
 
P1010052-large.JPG




Now that's a hole!

You could always just use it for a turbo oil return :)

I've had it as high as 10, but I running about 3 right now. I haven't gotten around to getting the boost controller stuff worked out.

I had just barely gotten it running when I moved 400 miles to an apartment with no garage. Haven't really gotten back to it yet.
 
Its not somewhere by water jackets or anything. Thats why i am not worried to try it. I need to get to work on it to see what all is going on interal. I would like to know what the kids et was. To bad the turbo is on the other side.

It looks like a freeze plug hole. My other one runs fine with those. The cummins that was repaired at my old mans railroad ran fine with some goop repair they did on the water jacket. so this one I hope will be easy. It will save me some doe if the brazing seals it up.

I am also in the process of figuring out what to do for a turbo. I will make everything I can. I am looking for more info on custom ground cams.
 
IF I were to try to weld that closed, I would grind a piece of 1/4" plate to work as a patch. I would then TIG it in.

How thick is the cast at that point?
 
Where I live, there are no small sixes in the yards-not sure what i would do either-isn't this "ingenuity" what makes us into hotrodders? I have seen a few heads welded up around here with good results and given the pressure the head is under compared to a low spot on the block....I'm bettin it'll work just fine if done properly-then the car will have an even better story-don't think it's worth being a point of argument for anyone. either it works or it don't. Sounds silly, but a trip to the local library may be in order-lots of good info on welding. Too bad you don't live by the lake like I do, there are ship repair places around here that can do wonders.
 
I dont have a tig. Although I may build one. http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml

Now you see how much of a do it yourselfer i am. I even built the roof rack mounts and rear shock mounts for the bronc. I figure if i save $ I dont have to make it.

I think its about 1/4'' at the thinnest. it gets real thick by the bell area.

It has so much iron (THICK) around it i think curtis' suggestion will work fine. In fact i dont think I could stitch and skrew it if i wanted to. I'll get a pic when i get the pan dropped. (need the motor stand.)
 
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