Hole in My new to me block--- Sugestions?

JOHN G":2440absm said:
Sounds silly, but a trip to the local library may be in order-lots of good info on welding. Too bad you don't live by the lake like I do, there are ship repair places around here that can do wonders.
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Actually i do use the library a lot. Fixed my boat with their book.

I do live by a bunch of lakes. Thats not a bad idea. My dads a machinest for the railroad and does crap like this on locomotives to get the rolling to the shops. Guess who'll be doing the brazing???
 
I guess since the block isn't aluminum, this stuff wouldn't work.

http://durafix.com/

But I don't know anything about welding or metal and how different metals bond to each other. Might be worth a try.
 
I just started reading this post.So the previous owner threw a rod and then drove the car home on 5 cylinders.You're not concerned about metal fragments that scored the inside of the engine,the cam journals,the cylinder walls,wiped out all the bearings and bearing surfaces inside the motor,the extreme heat that built up as a result of "Grenading" this motor.Not to mention that this motor was obviously getting beat on before this happened.
I had a buddy that had to get his engine sleeved on two cylinders,It was a good amount of money and machine work involved.In the end it was worth it as it was the original numbers matching block to his 1970 Boss 302.........
That said Time is money,Fixing this may save you some money and it is a challenge,But it will cost you time and what happens when you put this back together and have low oil pressure(wiped cam bearings),A knock (worn main bearings,bent heat warped crank,etc.).Remember this particular part was the first part to fail,So how far behind it were the other parts? I think that straight sixes are awesome engines,they run forever,unfortunately or fortunately they are not rare which means you would save yourself alot of time,money,and grief if you located a different short block.Sorry for rambling I'll shut up now.
 
:D Many years ago a friend had a similiar problem with a portable irrigation pump.He did a field repair on it that lasted about 10 years until he replaced the whole unit.
What he did was to use two washers that were a bit larger than the hole,a bolt and some sealer.
One washer on the inside well coated with sealer and one on the outside also well coated with sealer and then tightened the bolt.It never leaked in 10 years and the people that bought the pump used it for anothe 5 years until a radiator hose blew and the engine overheated and siezed up.
Leo
 
I need an engine stand. When I get it this week I will look at it. Maby the oil filter did its job??? I dont know till i open it up. Its below zero in my garage but I do wanna get to it soon. I will post pics.
 
When an engine throws a rod,The oil filter really can't do it's job as there is scrapnel all over the inside of the engine,Not to mention the heat.Trust me microscopic pieces scored every bearing and surface inside the engine.I know everyone lists the story of how their friend fixed a cracked block with Bubble Gum.Well for every half a$$ repair that worked there are 1000 that didn't.Considering I see people advertising for free six cylinder engines,I think you're wasting your time.Just go find another block and chalk this off to a lesson learned.
 
CAMDEN289":1oyxcjfl said:
and chalk this off to a lesson learned.
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I got a free duii out of the deal at the least. Also nascar wires, a starter, water pump, valve cover ect. I did drive a vw for a few years that had thrown a rod. It did fine but It didnt blow hole in the block. I did finally get a response to my add for another motor. i just have to find a ford 9 for his mustang and I get the old motor he swapped for a 302. I will probly still drive this motor-if I can-while I build the new one. Stay tuned for the video.
 
bronco6banger":17uzhf6c said:
... My dads a machinest for the railroad and does crap like this on locomotives to get the rolling to the shops. Guess who'll be doing the brazing???
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It will be just fine, brazing is the perfect solution to this problem. A VERY thorough cleaning is in order, of course.

Small Ford sixes were NEVER very popular around here, dunno why. I can personally name only ONE person I have ever known around here who drove one. Plenty of Slant Sixes and Chebbie sixes but Ford just didn't sell many of them in this region. Junkyards are therefore pretty empty of useable cores.

Good grief guys, ya'll ain't never heered of automotive REPAIR? Reckon these city boys would freak out if they saw some of the stuff I've done in the past to keep running :roll:
Joe
 
Lazy JW":226xtr2x said:
bronco6banger":226xtr2x said:
... My dads a machinest for the railroad and does crap like this on locomotives to get the rolling to the shops. Guess who'll be doing the brazing???
Click to expand...

It will be just fine, brazing is the perfect solution to this problem. A VERY thorough cleaning is in order, of course.

Small Ford sixes were NEVER very popular around here, dunno why. I can personally name only ONE person I have ever known around here who drove one. Plenty of Slant Sixes and Chebbie sixes but Ford just didn't sell many of them in this region. Junkyards are therefore pretty empty of useable cores.

Good grief guys, ya'll ain't never heered of automotive REPAIR? Reckon these city boys would freak out if they saw some of the stuff I've done in the past to keep running :roll:
Joe
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Well, there is repair and then there is redneckery.

The #1 problem with "fixing" the a hole like that in a block is that there are, as pointed out before, numerous other things likely wrong with it.

It's like if you broke a tie-rod... sure, you COULD weld it back together - but a much more intelligent decision is to pony up the 20$ and buy a new one.
 
Joe, i agree with you there is nothing wrong with doing a "redneckery." repair.
Just make sure the rest of the block is not damaged & some machine work may be nesessary after the repair, such as checking for needing line boring & decking.
If you can't locate another block you got to do what you gotta do. Bill
 
Reckon poor people have poor ways :roll: It's winter here in Idaho, the concrete business is a bit slow as our original poster noted (ever pour concrete in below-zero weather) and getting a fresh block from Kalifornia isn't an option. People fix cracked blocks every day; this isn't like a new idea. We frequently braze broken castings in the sawmill maintenance business, saves lots of dollars. This is a perfectly viable option, one that I would no qualms doing on my own engine. But then one of the primary reasons why I run Ford sixes is for economy, and there is much more to economy than mere gas mileage.
Joe
 
I guess the city slickers just dont comprehend it. Theyre are none available. especaly for 20 bucks. This is not san fran. I walk the junk yards and find 300's but no 250s.
And even the railroads here do similar repairs on theyre equipment all the time. My dad is a machinest for the railroad and has done many repairs to get locomotive rolling and on their way. We thought it would be good to see what others have done to patch the holes since we have never personal patched a hole in a small motor. so here are some things to thing about for ya all that think it cant be done. The next time you buy from an auction, Inspect the vehicle very close. The railroad has had vandels actual shoot the service trucks with rifles. These are then patched with some goop probly like jb weld and ran for a while and are sold at auction.

One example is the "freinds of the desert" who didnt like the railroad running through nature. So they filled the truck full of holes and it was patched, run, then sold.

On doing some research I also found complete sections on enging block repair. What I got here is looking more and more like nothing. which is good because I am broke.
So just because some can only bolt things up, thats good for them. Keep on bolting up.

Also about a rod coming apart. The peices of metal that fall to the bottom and clog in the filter are no worse than the dust and dirt that makes it in the engine from crappy filters. For those who actually answered the question I had: thank you. For those who have $20.00 motors: I'll give ya $21.00 for one.

Btw I am looking for a 250 connecting rod and piston. If ya wanna sell a spare please pm me. At 1/6th the price of a $20.00 engine would be great. :LOL:
 
bronco6banger":38rr85ho said:
On doing some research I also found complete sections on enging block repair. What I got here is looking more and more like nothing. which is good because I am broke.
So just because some can only bolt things up, thats good for them. Keep on bolting up.

Also about a rod coming apart. The peices of metal that fall to the bottom and clog in the filter are no worse than the dust and dirt that makes it in the engine from crappy filters. For those who actually answered the question I had: thank you. For those who have $20.00 motors: I'll give ya $21.00 for one.
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We all have to strike a balance between doing it right, and doing what we can. None of us has limitless resources.

This particular situation falls on the dumb side of doing what you can.

You have a motor that threw a rod through the side of the block. In order to get that motor a reliable runner again, you are going to need to AT A MINIMUM replace all the bearings, that particular piston and rod, as well as fix this hole in your block. You will also need to re-hone the cylinder that your are putting the new piston + rings into.

And that's if you get lucky and don't find any other damage (which I doubt, rods exiting the side of the block tend to do things like score cylinder walls and/or damage crank journals on the way).

So, Assuming your luckiest case, you need to find a "new" piston/rod. Now where do you suppose you are most likely to find that? In a 250 block. So why would you keep the current block ?

In the more likely case, you will open that motor up to find massive damage in addition to the normal wear and tear of years of operation - at which point the only way to get it back to running properly is a full rebuild. Once all the machine work costs in that are involved, even if you had to pay 100$ for a non broken block, it wouldnt increase the overall cost of the project by a very large percentage. At this point it is truely stupid to try and repair your block.

It's not a "city slickers" thing, or a rich/poor thing - it's just a common sense thing. You are going to have to dump X dollars to get a running engine. Why dump that money into a known damaged block when you have the option of dumping it into a good block? (I know you keep saying you can't find one, but seriously... I could go to the yard, pull you one and ship you the shortblock for less than 200$. Put a wanted ad in the classifieds and on craigslist and I bet you come up with one faster than you think.

And trust me, plenty of people giving you similar advice on this thread are WAY beyond the "bolt it on" modification crowd. Take a look around...

But.. if you are just trying to slap together some junk parts and you think that's gonna make a good enough motor for you - then you are on the right track. Might want to find the pieces of rod & weld that back together too. I hope you've got AAA.
 
Personally,I think this post is starting to remind me of the time I tried to teach my pet pig how to sing.All I did was waste my time and piss off the pig.......I'm sure when the rod broke it threw no debris into the engine, the parts did not get glowing red hot,and the crank didn't get bent,etc. For what's it's worth people on this forum who have been there done that are trying to save you some time,money,and grief. On that note as stated before remember that rod failed first,how far behind it were the rest of the parts? Please let us know how the repair goes.
 
Well, if he doesn't bother to PROPERLY CLEAN the block I reckon he's in for some trouble all right. Has anyone here actually observed an engine block in the process of being re-bored? Now THERE is some serious debris :eek: All those little metal cuttings just go literally EVERYWHERE, and if you don't bother to properly clean it you're still in for big trouble regardless of how much you paid for the block.

I once knew a fellow with a Keith Black Hemi in a drag boat that was pretty much a solid mass of patches. He kept welding it back together (he was a pretty good welder) but he always seemed to get too happy with the nitromethane :LOL:

Joe
 
Sure, and if I had a keith black hemi block I would do the same. Ask your friend if he would have put the same amount of effort into a 2 bolt sbc...
 
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