Holley/Weber 32/36 Jetting Tips

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Anonymous

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Just thought I'd share some notes with everyone considering the Weber DGV carburetor (aka 32/36). Most of these notes are personal observations as well as information I've found through technical research of the carburetor itself.

The Holley/Weber 32/36 carburetor is a great carburetor but can be a little tricky to set up correctly with a 6 cylinder engine. For those of you who don't know, the 32/36 was originally designed for a 4 cylinder engine. This is not to say that is will hinder any potential performance or fuel economy when used in conjuction with your inline 6 cylinder engines. Only a few changes or rather adjustments will more than likely need to be made for your particular application.

Jets. With a few minor changes to the stock jets, this carburetor will give you the performance, as well as fuel economy, that most others cannot deliver. Notice I said stock jet sizes. More often then not, rebuilt Webers don't necessarily have stock jets installed in them during the rebuild. So, before you purchase any replacement jets, it's best to see what you have to determine what needs to be replaced. Each jet is stamped with the number on top or on the side of the jet themselves. They are a little difficult to see but a magnifying glass can rectify this problem.

Here is a list of jets and their associated technical names that should help you in determining the right set-up for your engine.

4 cylinder
Primary Main Jet 140
Secondary Main Jet 140
Primary Air Corrector Jet 170
Secondary Air Corrector Jet 160
Primary Idle Jet 060
Secondary Idle Jet 050
Pump Jet 050

6 cylinder
Primary Main Jet 160
Secondary Main Jet 160
Primary Air Corrector Jet 190
Secondary Air Corrector Jet 180
Primary Idle Jet 075
Secondary Idle Jet 065
Pump Jet 060


The first list is comprised of the stock jet sizes as originally intended by the manufacturer. Remember, these numbers are based typically on a stock 4 cylinder engine displacing no more than 151 cubic inches.

The second list was developed from a group of off road enthusiates, namely individuals from the Jeep crowd. Typically their engines are 6 cylinders with displacements of 232 cubic inches or more.

I have found the latter jet sizes to work very well(save one size small on the air jets 185 & 175 vs. 190 & 180) with my inline 200.

Lastly, I would like to emphasis the need to make adjustments with your jets in order to determine the correct ones for you. Typically, with more engine modifications, larger jets will be needed.

Hope someone can benefit from this information. You have any questions regarding the tuning proceedures, I have a copy of the manufacturers proceedures.



-Chris
 
HELLO CHRIS

.....THAT IS A GOOD AMOUNT OF GOOD INFO. I JUST THOUGHT IT SHOULD HAVE ONE RESPONSE.... SO THANKS,... GOOD JOB!!!

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL
 
Can you post the spec sheet for the manufactures recommendations?
 
matt_hue":y3pucmjp said:
Can you post the spec sheet for the manufactures recommendations?
Click to expand...

The following write-up is from Weber.


SET UP ADJUSTMENTS

Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.

All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)

Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.

Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 2 full turns.

TUNING

BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.


Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.

The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.



-Chris
 
Cool stuff ya'll.
I am a long way from getting to doing the motor on the wifes 65 stang, but I will use these notes when I get there. Motor comes near the end by the way, my favorite part to work on, delayed gratifcation..lol.
 
This is great information, I just completed the upgrade to the weber 32/36. Wow What a difference. Now, I learn from you there is a chance it can do even better! first a couple questions, can I get the jets from Stovebolt or Autozone? Next, are all the jets the same, except for size of course, I mean here is the "main jets" the same as the "corrector jets"?

Finally, How hard are they to change out?
thanks for you time and effort.
GJT
 
GJT, you can get the jets from several internet sources but I prefer Stovebolt. Not only is he very knowledgeable regarding the Weber carburetor but he has a pretty good buy back plan. His jets may cost 8 bucks a piece, which is a little high, but he will buy back any jet for 5 bucks.

To my knowledge, Autozone will not have the jets.

The jets are different in size. One example are the main jets and the air corrector jets. They are different in size and will not interchange. As far as changing out the various jets, quit easy. You don't even have to remove the carburetor but you will have to remove the top of the carburetor to access the main jets located in the fuel bowl (there are two at the bottom of the bowl).

If you don't have a schematic diagram, I think I can post one if you need it to locate the various parts. Let me know and I can probably email it to you as well.
 
Chris,
thanks for the info, I agree, Tom Langdon at Stovebolt is very helpful and user friendly. Tom actually returned my call, while he was on vacation, then called me when he returned home, so I could order my carb and adapter.
I will order the jets from him, even if he does charge a little more.
I will have to let you know about the schematic, but right now I don't think I have one.
GJT
I
 
Here is a scan of what I have on file.

32_36page1.jpg


32_36page2.jpg


They may be hard to read. Try http://www.racetep.com/weber/32_36DGAVEV.pdf if you can't read the above.
 
Who else is running the 32/36? Good Luck? How about with it on the Aussie 2V?
I have a ported Aussie 2V and the Weber sitting in the wings right now.
 
chris, can you also post directions on the linkage you did. I think that wa s one of the best

Is taking a carb apart hard? will Tom build it with certian jets you ask?

Chaz

ps...I misssed the end ofg that acution for the adaptor so no hurry
 
Working out the tuning of the 5200 on a '71 170 with milled&built 250(D7) head/headers. Ran great with a YF and I'm trying to get the 5200 figured out. I've been following closely the parallel threads on this subject.

I have a question about availability of the alternate jets other than main jets.
I was reall interested in stang200's actual jet "guide". Are those other - air bleed/idle jets and "pump jets " readily available?.


With 5200, once warm it idles and runs real well responding to accelerator until secondary opens and then just bogs.

Too rich or too lean?. Probably too lean...

I opened up to calibrate float, drill secondary to .060 as advised and list the other jets:

Idle jets-------- Primary = #70 Secondary = # 30
Air bleeds------ # 170 # 185
Main jets # 132 # 140 ( drillled to .060)

The secondary enlarging didn't help, do secondary idle jets affect acceleration or open secondary?

Powerband
 
Chaz, the linkage will differ from Mustang to Comet to Maverick, etc and possibly from year to year because of the vehicle changes (i.e., size and emissions equipment). But, the linkage modification is pretty straight forward.

The parts I used for a single Weber adaptation are:

Alum. bar stock aproox. 3/4" - 1" in width and 1/8" in thickness length - you determine



Powerband, the "bogging" seems to be a big problem with a rebuilt Weber. Most of the time the secondary idle jet is too small. According to Tom, it should be roughly 80% in size as compared to the main idle jet. Also, make sure your choke is set correctly.

I think I ended up with a #70 as my main (primary) idle jet and #65 as my secondary idle jet. Also, I reduced the size of my main jets from 185 and 180 respectively to 165 and 160 IIRC. And my air jets ended up being 180 and 170. Before this change my spark plugs indicated a potentially rich mixture.

And yes, these jets and pumps are readily available from just about any authorized Weber dealer. Or you can get them for 8 bucks a piece from Tom. Most of the other dealers that I've seen sell a kit with all that you need to jet the carburetor for your specific needs. You just have to decide what those needs are before buying.

Whatever you do though don't give up too quickly on this carburetor. It can be "sticky" at first but once you understand the nature of the device, it's pretty much "set and forget". It's just the "setting" part that can be a bear.
 
Chaz, the linkage will differ from Mustang to Comet to Maverick, etc and possibly from year to year because of the vehicle changes (i.e., size and emissions equipment). But, the linkage modification is pretty straight forward.

The parts I used for a single Weber adaptation are:

Alum. bar stock aproox. 3/4" - 1" in width and 1/8" in thickness length - you determine.

(2) 3/16" dia. X 3/4" P.H.M.S. (pan head machine screw)
(4) nuts for the above screws
(2) lock washer for the above screws

(1) 1/4" dia x 3/4" S.S.M.S. (stainless steel machine screw)
(1) lock washer for the above screw
(1) nut for the above screw

Modified 3/4" x 3/4" alum. angle approx 2-1/2" long. One leg cut short (see picture).


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/redone/E3.jpg



Powerband, the "bogging" seems to be a big problem with a rebuilt Weber. Most of the time the secondary idle jet is too small. According to Tom, it should be roughly 80% in size as compared to the main idle jet. Also, make sure your choke is set correctly.

I think I ended up with a #70 as my main (primary) idle jet and #65 as my secondary idle jet. Also, I reduced the size of my main jets from 185 and 180 respectively to 165 and 160 IIRC. And my air jets ended up being 180 and 170. Before this change my spark plugs indicated a potentially rich mixture.

And yes, these jets and pumps are readily available from just about any authorized Weber dealer. Or you can get them for 8 bucks a piece from Tom. Most of the other dealers that I've seen sell a kit with all that you need to jet the carburetor for your specific needs. You just have to decide what those needs are before buying.

Whatever you do though don't give up too quickly on this carburetor. It can be "sticky" at first but once you understand the nature of the device, it's pretty much "set and forget". It's just the "setting" part that can be a bear.
 
see Chris, you are a member for life

man doesnt even own a mustang/ford...yet he STILL helps

question though...does the linkage move front to back or up and down?cause the accel rod goes forward...does it have to convert to up and down?

does that question make sense?
 
Question makes sense to me, but then again I'm alittle different. :roll: ;)

When I had my '66 Mustang, the part of the accelerator arm in the engine compartment moved up when you pushed down on the gas pedal.

Like I mentioned previously, the movement action of the rod will more than likely differ throughout the production years. But if anyone is needing some help or pointers, I'll do my best to help. Posting pictures ALWAYS makes a big difference.

Speaking of lifetime member, I need to get that donation in for this year to Jack. I'm getting behind on my commitments. :D
 
Some little guy at Dexters Lab spent hundreds of hours calibrating jets to flow a certain rate. Unless you can't find some jets, avoid redrilling.


When drilling jets, don't expect

a) the jet to flow any more than the stock jet undrilled

b) any two jets drilled to have the same flow rate.


If it was Holley (Weber) 32/36, Bresal (Spain) or Autolite, the Pinto 2-bbl carb had a main and secondary jet diameter which has two black cuts (chamfers) at about 45 degrees to ensure the gas flows out evenly. When you redrill the jet, you remove the cut, and the fuel flow becomes less stable, and developes vortices which impead the flow of the gas.


If a 40 call size jet does 185 cc per minute at it's test pressure, then it may do only 165 cc per minute if it is redrilled. If you drill it much bigger, the flow rates will then increase, but the jets then tend to atomise the fuel poorly, often puddling. A set of standard Holley or Weber jets are available in many different sizes, as the carb was used in many different applications, and the jets form a 38 DGAS or European Cortina are often available from Peirce (Weber agent). The Holley 5200 is a newer carb, so jets should be around from Holley. There are even close limit jets which are used on the 1980 to 1983 2300 versions (Ranger, Capri, Mustang, Cougar,Bobcat, Pinto) before it got replaced with the 1-bbl carb.

A practical example of how counter productive jet drilling is was on a three jet vegetation or high pressure spray bar I had to calibrate. Due to lack of avaliabilty of the correct jets, we were forced to redrill them to get a target spray application. The upsized jets never did flow the same rates as each other, and they often flowed a lot less with a slightly larger drilled opening. Savagely re-drilling them, they flowed much more, but no two were alike, and they tended to pool and form large droplets.
 
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