Holly Terminator-X on a ford 300

And just to be sure before I order anything else, these springs will work fine correct? Also they were sold out of my $10 injectors so I need to find another good deal. IMG_0293.png
 
The stock EFI exhaust manifolds work very well as a turbocharger manifold.
The Melling VS2215 is the correct valve spring and will work on the exhaust valve with the intake retainer and .050" up locks.
Yes, I would replace all 12 springs with the new Melling springs.

You will have to make sure that the Melling spring has an installed height of no less than 1.650"

What size injectors are you going to buy?
 
Last edited:
The stock EFI exhaust manifolds work very well as a turbocharger manifold.
The Melling VS2215 is the correct valve spring and will work on the exhaust valve with the intake retainer and .050" up locks.
Yes, I would replace all 12 springs with the new Melling springs.

You will have to make sure that the Melling spring has an installed height of no less than 1.650"

What size injectors are you going to buy?
I’m not sure what size injectors. I just read on here that the Crown Victoria 4 hole injectors were a good upgrade and 19lbs vs the stock 12lbs. So I looked at Crown Vic injectors on Rock Auto and it said they had 7 of the brand new ones in stock for under $10 each so I tried to buy 6. I figured at that price even if they were wrong it wasn’t a bad deal. I figure the Holley would be able to tune a “too big” injector to work, up to a certain point. If you have a recommended injector I’ll look into ordering that. Also, do you have the distance between the three bolt holes on the 96 balancer? I’m considering trying to make up a cad file for a 60-2 trigger wheel and ordering it custom from Xometry. Then if it works I can just post on here so that anyone else who needs one can just use that file and order a bolt on piece.
 
An injector for just under a 300 hp turbocharged engine will be about 32 lbs/hr.

I do not have the bolt pattern dimension for the 1996 balancer wheel mounting holes.
You will need to get the balancer first to get those measurements.
 
An injector for just under a 300 hp turbocharged engine will be about 32 lbs/hr.

I do not have the bolt pattern dimension for the 1996 balancer wheel mounting holes.
You will need to get the balancer first to get those measurements.
Oh wow that’s bigger than I expected. What do I search for to find the proper size injectors that will fit but different flow rates?
 
Colors of various Ford Injectors and their application.
ford-injector-guide.jpg



I bought a set of FJ760 injectors from Rock Auio. They're green and intended for a Lightening pickup, so I assume they're 42 lb/hr. And they are high impedence which Microsquirt and probably Terminator x wants.
 
will I be able to completely remove my current ECU and engine harness after this or will it still be needed to run anything else? My truck is a base 1995 F150 XL and I think the only option that was added was AC.
If you have auto trans you will have to add a controller. On a '90 the stock ECU does not shift the trans if the stock TFI distributor signal is dismantled. Not sure about your vintage.
 
Colors of various Ford Injectors and their application.
ford-injector-guide.jpg



I bought a set of FJ760 injectors from Rock Auio. They're green and intended for a Lightening pickup, so I assume they're 42 lb/hr. And they are high impedence which Microsquirt and probably Terminator x wants.
Thanks for the info, that’s super helpful. Is there a disadvantage to getting bigger than needed injectors? I see the 42# Motorcraft for $67 but I’ll never need injectors that big. I’m looking for the 30# but they’re all like 2 from this manufacturer and 3 from another, and I’d prefer them to all be the same.
 
If you have auto trans you will have to add a controller. On a '90 the stock ECU does not shift the trans if the stock TFI distributor signal is dismantled. Not sure about your vintage.
I have a manual so no concern about the trans. I see the Terminator has 2 wires for the AC to kick it on and cut it at wide open. Is there any other control the ECU has over the AC or is it a separate module I won’t need to worry about?
 
I have a manual so no concern about the trans. I see the Terminator has 2 wires for the AC to kick it on and cut it at wide open. Is there any other control the ECU has over the AC or is it a separate module I won’t need to worry about?
I'm weak on the electronics side, but as far as I can tell the ECM has no control over the AC compressor on my '90 f150 which I converted to carb. All dash functions work as before. The factory ECM is still in place and unmodified except the cut circuits to the engine EFI and TFI. So truthfully IDK what control it has over AC. . Personally, I'd leave the ECM, just make the mods you need and leave the rest. Unplug the CE light at the dash.
 
Ok boys, what do you think about these injectors? 8 30# Injectors for $180 is a good deal and should get me where I want to be. Do I need the OBD1 clips for the extra $40?

 
Ok boys, what do you think about these injectors? 8 30# Injectors for $180 is a good deal and should get me where I want to be. Do I need the OBD1 clips for the extra $40?

They look like nice injectors- Bosch is always good. . What fuel pressure does the Terminator suggest? I assume you're aware that the 300 runs 60 PSI factory. This is because of the exhaust heat on the same side as the injectors, to help prevent vapor lock when refiring hot. It will do fine @ 45 but you may have some stumbling for a few seconds after a hot-soak. In the hot climate where I live the stock EFI did have brief (5-10 seconds) vapor lock in the hottest weather restarts with factory fuel pressure.
 
The 1965 to 1984 heads have 4.810" long valves while the 1985 to 1996 heads with pedestal mount rocker arms have shorter 4.750" valves.
The 4.750" long exhaust valve also has a rotator style retainer that uses a very short valve spring and the keeper groove in that valve stem is lower than the groove in the intake valve stem.
What we typically do is use the intake valve spring and intake valve retainer on the exhaust valve and use .050" up locks to move the retainer on the exhaust valve upwards, so it is even with the height of the intake valve retainer.

The Melling cam is a drop in for the 1965 to 1984 engines.

Here is a source for the intake retainers.

Here are the .050" up locks
Will these retainers from Rock Auto work? They’re listed as being for intake and exhaust and the only ones available. I ordered the keepers you posted but the website for the retainers wants $21 for shipping which I think is a little outrageous for 6 spring retainers that will fit in a $6 flat rate envelope.

IMG_0313.png
 
Will these retainers from Rock Auto work? They’re listed as being for intake and exhaust and the only ones available. I ordered the keepers you posted but the website for the retainers wants $21 for shipping which I think is a little outrageous for 6 spring retainers that will fit in a $6 flat rate envelope.
Yes, they are the same retainers as the ones from Goodson.
 
They look like nice injectors- Bosch is always good. . What fuel pressure does the Terminator suggest? I assume you're aware that the 300 runs 60 PSI factory. This is because of the exhaust heat on the same side as the injectors, to help prevent vapor lock when refiring hot. It will do fine @ 45 but you may have some stumbling for a few seconds after a hot-soak. In the hot climate where I live the stock EFI did have brief (5-10 seconds) vapor lock in the hottest weather restarts with factory fuel pressure.
I am aware of the higher PSI. Pmuller9 recommended 32 pound injectors for about 300hp which is probably more than I’ll hit. And I’m sure he accounted for the higher PSI. I live in South Carolina so it gets hot in the summer, I’ve never had vapor lock in the 6 years I’ve been driving this truck. Will I need to install an aftermarket regulator to bring the pressure down to the like 42-45 the Holley wants?
 
I am aware of the higher PSI. Pmuller9 recommended 32 pound injectors for about 300hp which is probably more than I’ll hit. And I’m sure he accounted for the higher PSI. I live in South Carolina so it gets hot in the summer, I’ve never had vapor lock in the 6 years I’ve been driving this truck. Will I need to install an aftermarket regulator to bring the pressure down to the like 42-45 the Holley wants?
When you add a turbocharger, you will need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.
 
When you add a turbocharger, you will need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.
Ok that’s good to know. But for now, the 30lbs injectors I posted will work just fine with no need of a regulator right? And the 30lbs injectors will get me in the high 200hp range once turbo? I’m not looking to replace the pistons and rods with forged stuff unless I need to so probably only looking at like 8-10 psi.
 
Ok that’s good to know. But for now, the 30lbs injectors I posted will work just fine with no need of a regulator right? And the 30lbs injectors will get me in the high 200hp range once turbo? I’m not looking to replace the pistons and rods with forged stuff unless I need to so probably only looking at like 8-10 psi.
That's correct.
You will need to be extremely conservative with the ignition timing under boost in order to keep the cast pistons form cracking.
Even without boost the max timing under load with the EFI head is 28 to 30 degrees.
 
That's correct.
You will need to be extremely conservative with the ignition timing under boost in order to keep the cast pistons form cracking.
Even without boost the max timing under load with the EFI head is 28 to 30 degrees.
Ok that’s good to know. Maybe I’ll put the turbo plan off another year and plan for a rebuild too. I’ll come here for piston and rod recommendations when that time comes.
 
Back
Top