Honing cylinders, bad idea?

350kmileford

Well-known member
So I picked up a block from grocery getter not too long ago. The block has a 'remanufactured' tag on it. The cylinders still have slight hone crosshatchings in them. I found out today that it is bored to 3.72". Now I don't plan on getting it bored, but I will be putting new rings in. Is it possible/a good idea for me to simply get each cylinder honed again? If that is a good idea, could I just pick up one of those berry hones and do it myself, or does the pattern of the hone need to be very precise?

I am basically looking for the best method of breaking in the rings, if anyone else has suggestions I am open.
 
it is a really good idea to hone it. all you need to hone is the honing tool i would get a ball hone.(youll have to buy one for your bore size)as your honing you need to lube it with diesel. i used about 2 QT per cyl. you can re-use the fuel. i stuck a pan below my motor when i honed it.IIRC your looking for a 40* crosshatch. some one what to correct me if im wrong?
 
What was said is true.
If you just plan to use cast rings then a 280 hone is ok.
If you plan to use moly or plasma rings use at least a 500 grit hone.
With the moly's too rough a bore just scrapes the moly coating from the rings.
Keep the bore slick when using the moly's & they will breakin very fast.
Make sure you wash the freshly honed cylinders with a detergent soap.
 
I am going to have a shop hone the cylinders, remove the old cam bearings, hot tank the block and install the new bearings.
 
Do yourself a favour and remove every core plug from the block beforehand. Both ends of the main oil gallery, back of the cam bore, all five on exhaust side of the block, water passage under the bellhousing contact area.

Also chip out as much corrosion as you can from around the insides of your water jacket. Use (lightly) a hammer and small flat screwdriver.

Otherwise you will get to find out just how dumb the rebuilders can be. Give them nowhere to hide when cleaning the block... I would also have them install the new cam bearings after your taken the block back to final clean it yourself (post-honing).

That's assuming you have compressed air and a supply of wax/grease remover. I use a new 1" paintbrush with polyester bristles, and a couple of smaller bristle brushes, plus make my own "pull-through" tools for cleaning the long galleries. Used with copious amounts of solvent and then blown dry immediately with compressed air, it gets things acceptably clean. Protect the bores with motor oil (not WD-40) wiped on with your hand. This reduces lint contamination. It will also test if you removed all the sharp edges! :shock: :P

Besides "breaking" sharp edges, check for gouges in gasket surfaces and wipe with a smooth file to remove them. Chase/clean all threads (with a chasing tool and solvent, not a tap) to the point where you can shine a light down the hole and see shiny metal at the end.

For a novice, I'd suggest 4-6 hours of cleaning to get the block sorted. Now you can take it back for the cam bearings. A second flush and brush afterwards (nowehere near as thorough as first time) will be needed in case any fine shavings are released by the install process.

Then mask off the gasket faces to apply your engine paint. If you are not sure how much to mask (eg, for fuel pump) mask the whole area, poke a hole through to set the item against the block and trace its perimeter on the tape. Now cut the excess tape away with a utility knife.

I know all of this seems a bit thorough; maybe almost histrionic. But I've been on the receiving end of incompetence enough times to no longer trust people with oddball motors (and this includes sixes in many situations). They have no respect for what you're doing.
 
Like I said the block has been recently remanufactured. THe Welsh plugs still look brand new and there's no real corrosion buildup. I was almost contemplating not getting it tanked.
 
You're too trusting. I've "been there" and speak from bitter experience.
 
the corrosion won't be on the ft side of the freeze plugs but on the back. I use brass my self. 80 bucks for a clean block is about right. its the other machine work that is expensive. let them do all of it and you have some assurance its done right. some.
 
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