A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi all,
Thanks in advance for your replies. I have the stock block in my 65 mustang and am installing a 1980 250 head, plus some performance goodies. Tonight I hope to button it up and before doing so, wanted to check here for insights on whether I did something wrong or forgot something.
I have a custom grind comp cam (.466/.502 @ 1.60 ratio) installed, with FSP lifters, pushrods, and Yella Terra full roller rockers (1.73:1), crane springs (80#/150#), retainers, locks, teflon valve stem seals. The head was milled .055 and given the full Extrude Hone treatment so all cylinders have identical airflow. Intake cfm is up 30% over factory and exhaust up 40% over factory. The intake log was built up then machined flat for a Holley 2v 350 cfm carb. I had the oil fee hole in the rocker shaft pedestal tapped and plugged, since the oil feed is now up through the lifters and pushrods. I also have the australian made FSP timing gear/chain set with the crank gear set 2 degrees advanced. The head has a 3-angle valve job and was vacuum tested to confirm the valves seat. The seats are hardened and there are bronze valve guides. I am using a FelPro head gasket because the Corteco gasket sold to me (with a compressed thickness of .038) was for a 240/300. I'd like to use a head gasket with a smaller compressed thickness, as I understand the FelPro is .055, which kills the 10:1 compr. ratio I was aiming for. I am using new ARP headbolts with hardened steel washers. I'll use thread sealant on the end passenger side bolts.
Is there anything I should consider before installing the head and oil pan? Have to say that installing the cam is pretty easy with the oil pan dropped. I was able to reach into the block and support the cam as the journals fed into the bearings.
One issue: When the cam thrust plate was installed, I was able to pull on the cam bolt and pull the cam back almost 1/4inch. The cam sprocket seems to sit forward of the crank sprocket as there is a slight angle on the timing chain. Consequently, when I turned over the engine with a breaker bar, there was an occassional tick as the chain hit the oil slinger. The machine shop says to install the head/rockers/push rods and the cam might walk backwards a bit and re-align the chain. If not, the suggestion was to slighten flatten the oil slinger so that the timing cover seal won't push the oil slinger back into the chain. I am concerned about this, as well as plugging the oil feed in the rocker pedestal. The Yella Terra rockers are shaft mounted in pairs; two to a shaft.
What do you think? Do I have any problems? Any suggestions on going forward from this point?
Thanks!
Thanks in advance for your replies. I have the stock block in my 65 mustang and am installing a 1980 250 head, plus some performance goodies. Tonight I hope to button it up and before doing so, wanted to check here for insights on whether I did something wrong or forgot something.
I have a custom grind comp cam (.466/.502 @ 1.60 ratio) installed, with FSP lifters, pushrods, and Yella Terra full roller rockers (1.73:1), crane springs (80#/150#), retainers, locks, teflon valve stem seals. The head was milled .055 and given the full Extrude Hone treatment so all cylinders have identical airflow. Intake cfm is up 30% over factory and exhaust up 40% over factory. The intake log was built up then machined flat for a Holley 2v 350 cfm carb. I had the oil fee hole in the rocker shaft pedestal tapped and plugged, since the oil feed is now up through the lifters and pushrods. I also have the australian made FSP timing gear/chain set with the crank gear set 2 degrees advanced. The head has a 3-angle valve job and was vacuum tested to confirm the valves seat. The seats are hardened and there are bronze valve guides. I am using a FelPro head gasket because the Corteco gasket sold to me (with a compressed thickness of .038) was for a 240/300. I'd like to use a head gasket with a smaller compressed thickness, as I understand the FelPro is .055, which kills the 10:1 compr. ratio I was aiming for. I am using new ARP headbolts with hardened steel washers. I'll use thread sealant on the end passenger side bolts.
Is there anything I should consider before installing the head and oil pan? Have to say that installing the cam is pretty easy with the oil pan dropped. I was able to reach into the block and support the cam as the journals fed into the bearings.
One issue: When the cam thrust plate was installed, I was able to pull on the cam bolt and pull the cam back almost 1/4inch. The cam sprocket seems to sit forward of the crank sprocket as there is a slight angle on the timing chain. Consequently, when I turned over the engine with a breaker bar, there was an occassional tick as the chain hit the oil slinger. The machine shop says to install the head/rockers/push rods and the cam might walk backwards a bit and re-align the chain. If not, the suggestion was to slighten flatten the oil slinger so that the timing cover seal won't push the oil slinger back into the chain. I am concerned about this, as well as plugging the oil feed in the rocker pedestal. The Yella Terra rockers are shaft mounted in pairs; two to a shaft.
What do you think? Do I have any problems? Any suggestions on going forward from this point?
Thanks!
