He would be looking at grind number H-264-12-B which has a 112 degree LSA.
The website may not show it and may require a call directly to Clay Smith Cams.
All Small Six 200 inline 6 Camshaft
- Thread starter B’s Stang
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
The website may not show it and may require a call directly to Clay Smith Cams.
AK Miller 55 years ago told me the reason why that most small six cams are off but I do not remember exactly why any more. I just always check. If I find one that degrees right I assume that I made a mistake and recheck that I did. I use the open and closing events as on the cam card for the exhaust and then the intake, then I slide down and check #6 to see if crank is still O at top dead center and then check intake and exhaust timing.
I like the cam that you have posted Frank. Looks like a good option. Is the 110* lobe ok for a general build. I would assume it wouldn’t impact idle that much?
I gonna check out the one pmuller9 posted as well.
Each degree of LSA change changes overlap by two degrees. LSA affects idle the most. 214* duration @.050 at 110* LSA is the same overlap as 218* @.050 and 112* LSA. That is pretty high duration, will have a slight but definite lope. A tight LSA improves lower RPM response and torque. A tight LSA makes a worse idle and less vacuum, but torque comes in quickly when throttle is applied.
Personally I would go with a bit less duration with the auto trans and 1V log intake. The H-264-12-B posted by pmuller above is better for this application IMO.
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I called Clay smith camshafts and they said that they have discontinued the H-264-12-B. They do have a close to stock but upgrade to the old, H-256-0-B. It has a 110* and the guy (Nick) said that this is a good pair for my engine and application. What do you guys think. Should I go 256 or go 264 with a 110*.
Also the 256 they said is good for use with an efi system while the 264 is their best calling can for the inline 6.
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The 256 is a good match with your 1 barrel and log intake. Off the line torque and throttle response will be strong. The 256 makes more compression than the 264.
I’ve been watching this discussion with interest. I’ve got a small 6 with a Clay Smith camshaft, silv-o-lite pistons, header, HEI ignition. A sniper would be a nice air/fuel management upgrade but mine has a Weber 2V on it with the funnel adapter.
I would think based on what you’ve described, the H-264-0-B or the H-254-0-B would be good choices. Being an automatic, you don’t want a cam that is too choppy or it’s just going to be a little frustrating in traffic, sitting at stop lights with a lopey idle and the 254 and 264 claim to have a good idle for auto transmissions and decent vacuum for transmissions and brakes.
@Frank On paper the H-254-0-B seems like a great no fuss camshaft for a small 6 with typical stock-ish compression, non-ported head, standard valves and springs with the Sniper, HEI and a header. What do you figure the OP would need to have in mind to warrant the longer duration of the H-264-0-B?
@B’s Stang Are you planning more performance upgrades for the future or is it just going to be bolt it together and enjoy driving.
I would think based on what you’ve described, the H-264-0-B or the H-254-0-B would be good choices. Being an automatic, you don’t want a cam that is too choppy or it’s just going to be a little frustrating in traffic, sitting at stop lights with a lopey idle and the 254 and 264 claim to have a good idle for auto transmissions and decent vacuum for transmissions and brakes.
@Frank On paper the H-254-0-B seems like a great no fuss camshaft for a small 6 with typical stock-ish compression, non-ported head, standard valves and springs with the Sniper, HEI and a header. What do you figure the OP would need to have in mind to warrant the longer duration of the H-264-0-B?
@B’s Stang Are you planning more performance upgrades for the future or is it just going to be bolt it together and enjoy driving.
Awasson, I'm shooing from the hip on the samll6. Can't answer that cam duration question without knowing the total duration of the stock cam which I don't. Need that baseline to figure from.
Fair enough. I just wondered if @B's Stang would be better off with the longer duration can if more mods were in the works or is the 254 was the one size fits all solution.
Regarding stock cam duration, It doesn't give all of the info you'd need but I really like this post from @xctasy from 20 years ago on the subject: https://fordsix.com/threads/stock-camshaft-specs.29513/#post-213481
The main point to take away from extacy's post is that the a'market cams have quite a bit more .050" duration, while +/- 252* total is close to stock. This increases cylinder filling in the lower rpm bands, which also results in slightly more dynamic compression, increasing torque further. While the overall rpm powerband remains near stock.
For higher rpm HP gains, a longer cam would be beneficial. So long as the intake is stock increased total duration is not going to attain full potential since HP is attained with RPM. As intake restriction is reduced by modifications, increasing cam duration is a good matching move.
Since B'stang is staying with the stock intake/1V TBI the 252 cam is a solid match. the longer cams will work also though, it's his call. Properly tuned, the 252/ Sniper/ correct ignition curve may be improvement enough to not want to go any farther.
It sure is a shame y'all are restricted by the cast intake!
Yes, @xctasy's post is really informative and also yes, the takeaway on the stock head/intake really is a problematic "feature" of the engine. If my Mustang was a utilitarian daily driver, I think it would be less fun because of the extended warm up time before it really behaves and the performance that lies in it that you kind of have to tease out of it. It's fun on the freeway and onramps and curves though. Not so great in typical city traffic.
With all that in mind and from my recent call with Clay Smith about the camshaft I have regarding the log head, I think you're right that the H-256-0-B is the least fussy camshaft upgrade. It'll give @B’s Stang a little kick in the pants without being difficult to dial the tune in, making drivability more enjoyable.
Besides, if you decide that you want to get some rreal performance by upgrading the head to a Aussie 2V or a VI Aluminum head, the camshaft upgrade to a bigger grind isn't a huge leap in effort because almost everything is apart anyway.
Thank you guys so much for helping me through this process of choosing a cam. I agree that the 256 is probably the best option considering its stats and the fact that the website says it would work best with the efi system, which is my plan. I want a reliable mustang that will give me great gas mileage for an old mustang. I don’t have like crazy performance mods planned for this Mustang. Just like exhaust headers and a new exhaust, along with the efi and ignition system. Hopefully my engine is ok, I have posted a few other posts regarding the problem I have been having with my car so far.
They sure do. On the cam info page, they'll have recommended items and the lifters will be recommended.
For our engines with traditional rocker arm assemblies, you want non-oiling.
As long as the push rods are straight and don’t exhibit wear (galling), you’re good to go. Take the push rods and roll them on the work bench to make sure they aren’t bent. Rockers are a bit more involved in determining if they have excessive wear of the shaft but I would imagine yours should be good as, I think, you said the engine was rebuilt not that long ago.
