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Anonymous
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matt1967":3arsis4v said:
No, too restrictive. Try none for now, with 2.5" pipe all the way out the back.
You can add a 2-1/2" glasspack later (I mean 2.5 " all the way through, not necked down)
how about this turbo?
- Thread starter matt1967
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No, too restrictive. Try none for now, with 2.5" pipe all the way out the back.
You can add a 2-1/2" glasspack later (I mean 2.5 " all the way through, not necked down)
thanks for the help. with advance auto's pre bent exhaust peices ( only thing there good for ) I can do pretty good exhausts. maby I'll get a second hanger and run 2 tailpipes with a Y. I replaced the back half of the exhaust back with 2", but the front half has some leaks so going bigger is no problem, has to be replaced anyway.
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I get stainless scraps from the local muffler shop for free!
Many cadillacs, etc use stainless pipe.
parts store bends = junk
Many cadillacs, etc use stainless pipe.
parts store bends = junk
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matt1967":30ydwcek said:
The tubing in parts store bends is much thinner than regular tubing, is poorer quality steel and yes, the crimps don't help. Also, the galvanising on it makes it harder to weld and the fumes from doing so are extremely poisonous.
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matt1967":3p60aqhd said:
Need pics
also, I know now that the oil return line should run directly into the oil pan, and I will run a cooler after the turbo, but how do I drill the hole for the weld in bung without getting metal shavings throuout the engine? could I run a very strong magnent ( hard drive magnent ) across the bottom of the oil pan tword the drain, then drain it all out?
as for the cooler I dont think your supposed to run anything after the turbo because you want the least restriction as possible... it should be a straight shot to the top of the pan above the oil level and should be going down from the turbo if I remember correctly... no uphill battles...
right, these turbo's are gravity drain so the drain has to be lower than the turbo, which is easy enough. you don't think a cooler is nessary? I thought a cooler was not recomended to be put in b4 the turbo, which makes sense because of restriction, that's why I was thinking after the turbo.hasa68mustang":28pojrsb said:
I think I misunderstood what you said... as in you would run one but not after the turbo drain. sorry 
I also wanted to run a cooler, I ogt one with my $100 probe setup but never ran it... I think I am going to end up doing something with the car for my senior project so I am having good expectations for this year!
I also wanted to run a cooler, I ogt one with my $100 probe setup but never ran it... I think I am going to end up doing something with the car for my senior project so I am having good expectations for this year!I was thinking about running 1 for cooling purposes ( oil is 60% of the engines cooling capacity ), it depends on how much I have alloted for the Turbo, I'm pretty shure I'll have $600 set aside for it, maby I'll buy a new 4 core aluminum radiator and run it with the turbo.
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Anonymous
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1) I had (at one time) two of those exhaust housing with the swing gate still on, but sold both on ebay for $1 each.
2) Do not put anything in the path of the oil drain.
3) A restrictor to the oil inlet on the turbo is actually a good idea.
4) Do not waste money on an oil cooler unless you find out later you need one. Oil works best right at 200* F. Do not cool the oil going into the turbo.
" ( oil is 60% of the engines cooling capacity ) "
5) That is NOT correct. More like maybe 20%. Oil sends its heat into the cooling system!
2) Do not put anything in the path of the oil drain.
3) A restrictor to the oil inlet on the turbo is actually a good idea.
4) Do not waste money on an oil cooler unless you find out later you need one. Oil works best right at 200* F. Do not cool the oil going into the turbo.
" ( oil is 60% of the engines cooling capacity ) "
5) That is NOT correct. More like maybe 20%. Oil sends its heat into the cooling system!
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Anonymous
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matt1967":2q3u6cvx said:
Piece of cake!
Most common method:
1) Get a tapered center punch. It needs to have a pretty big diameter.
2) punch hole in pan big enough to run your thread tap through (what size NPT tap do you have?)
Make sure you don't punch the oil pump!! (Or oil pick-up tube, crank, etc).
3) use a small shop vac (blowing side) to pressurize the crankcase through the oil fill hole with air while you thread. (I just "threaded" the plastic hose into the hole. Make sure inside of hose is clean, LOL!) Air compressor won't work because not enough flow.
Make SURE you wear safety glasses, since there will be a LOT of air coming out of the hole as you tap and spraying metal chips in your face!
When tapping, 1/2 turn forward, 1/4 turn back....1/2 forward, 1/4 back etc etc etc
matt1967":xa1lyb6k said:
On an air cooled Porsche or VW, maybe.
thanks guys. any idea of where I could get the wastegate/ flapper valve? available new? as for the oiling, I found a high performance electric oiler kit for the buick 3.8 turbo's, has a pump, resivore and filter and runs of 12v. is this somthing I should consider?
as for the 60% of the engines cooling coming from the oil, that's actully ASE's figures. I take an vocational Auto class and that is somthing we had to learn. hard to understand but you have to look at everything as part of a whole, rather than just the big picture to understand why it's actully true. the oil cools the main components such as pistions, crank and the like, it does transfer it's heat energy to the coolant, but the coolant as itself cools less than the oil, shure it plays a part in cooling the oil but in the way that it was figured, it is the 60% and the coolant is the 40%, looking at it in the big picture, we think of the coolant as the only means of cooling. still hard for me to understand how, but figured like that, it makes sense to me.
as for the 60% of the engines cooling coming from the oil, that's actully ASE's figures. I take an vocational Auto class and that is somthing we had to learn. hard to understand but you have to look at everything as part of a whole, rather than just the big picture to understand why it's actully true. the oil cools the main components such as pistions, crank and the like, it does transfer it's heat energy to the coolant, but the coolant as itself cools less than the oil, shure it plays a part in cooling the oil but in the way that it was figured, it is the 60% and the coolant is the 40%, looking at it in the big picture, we think of the coolant as the only means of cooling. still hard for me to understand how, but figured like that, it makes sense to me.
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matt1967":j9gffsq8 said:
Why?
I guess that answers that questionLinc's 200":j3cuygyl said:
was thinking just for the ease of putting it in rather than having to tap and make shure nothing got in the engine.. I got thinking tho, if I punched the pan, it would not have any shavings, and then I could weld on/ in the correct sized bung for the oil return. this work?
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Anonymous
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matt1967":17fkz8ru said:
Yes
