how bad can i hurt my engine

i have a bad cam/lifter the #3 cylinder's exhaust valve is not opening all the way. i had to drive it to work all last week like that. it drives fine as long as i dont go over 2500 rpm, then it starts backfiring, will my engine be ok if i continue to drive it carefully? oil psi is staying around 30, the temp is staying normal but im worried about warping the head or damaging the connecting rod, should i get a rental car or will my engine be ok to drive to work?
 
eventually that cylinder will shut down completely when teh cam lobe is completely worn away. not to mention the metallic debris that is floating around in your engine causing all kinds of havoc. if you have another car, start driving it until you can tear into your engine and fix some things.
 
If you have another car I'd drive it. However you have eating the cam lobe off most likely for thousands of miles.
 
80broncoman":rn2wcvad said:
If you have another car I'd drive it. However you have eating the cam lobe off most likely for thousands of miles.

true, but if this problem started suddenly, its also possible that the lobe got wiped when the bad running started. until the motor comes apart though and we get a look at the cam and lifter we wont know for sure.
 
well i have a cam/lifter kit coming from classic inlines along with arp head studs and a degree kit, ill put up some pics on my facebook when i do the tear-down and reassembly of the engine
 
who makes that, any brand names?
Thanks.
 
If you are going to completely rebuild the engine you have nothing to lose by driving it. Any material from the cam and lifter will be embedded in the bearings and if you are going to have the crank cut it doesn't matter much. I wouldn't want to head cross country in it, but to get to work and back should be fine. The cost if a rental car for a week or two could pay for the rebuild. Screw that. Drive it man! :beer:

How old is the cam? Was this a newer rebuild/installation?
 
Aahhhhh, I understand. Yeah, better not run it any more than you have to in that case then. If you lost a cam live and lifter there is likely to be some amount of bearing/journal damage. Don't be surprised if you lose a bit bit of oil pressure. Not to worry that thing will likely run for a loooong time that way.

A little cheap insurance is to change the oil a before the cam break in and follow the break in procedure. You'll be good. :beer:
 
yes i will be changing my oil, i think i will be using valvoline racing oil straight 30w along with some break in additives and high zddp assembly lube
 
i have seen some you tube videos where they would spray the cam with graphite then coat it in assembly lube, is that a good way to install the cam or will i be fine without it
 
no i only bought a cam and lifter kit, arp head studs and degree wheel, i figure if im going to pull the cam, i should do some upgrades while im at it
 
To answer the additive question I use a product called ZTTPlus I think it's out of Oregon. About $8-9 a bottle. It was indorsed by Dan Garlits. Don't have a lot of miles since the rebuild so it's too early to say how it works.
 
But you don't have to pull the cam to swap a lifter.
Don't get me wrong, any excuse to do a rebuild is a good one. 8)
 
64 200 ranchero":2cinzpc2 said:
i have seen some you tube videos where they would spray the cam with graphite then coat it in assembly lube, is that a good way to install the cam or will i be fine without it

no, while graphite is a lubricant, it is a dry lube, and it will cause issues down the road as the graphite will tend to clump together and possibly clog an oil passage. do not use a dry lube in the engine, unless it is one of those that is plasma sprayed on something like piston skirts.
 
quote="JackFish"]But you don't have to pull the cam to swap a lifter.
Don't get me wrong, any excuse to do a rebuild is a good one. 8)[/quote]

If there is little lift at the rocker arm, the lifter and/or cam is toast. If the lifter got soft, it killed the cam, if the cam lobe went out to lunch, then it wiped out the lifter.

I have to point out the fact that it is very unusual for a high mileage stock engine to suddenly eat a cam. You didn't say, but was this a recent rebuild? Did you check for a bent pushrod?
 
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