How do I polish Valve faces?

t-west

Well-known member
Hi all,

I just bought a '78 head w/ a 3 angle valve job, port divider, surface milled .030, but looking at the valve faces they look a little rough. Sure the handbook advises that one could polish these faces, but I'm not entirely sure what to use that wouldn't warp or otherwise damage them. I have a dremmel-type tool, a grinder with a wire wheel and a drill w/ coarse brass brush.

Does anyone have advice about which tool exactly I should use? I'm thinking Dremmel, but not sure which attachment.

thanks,
--tom
 
I often just chuck them into a drill and hold them against sandpaper. Start with 80 or 100 and use progressively finer grit until you get the finish you want. It makes a nice swirl finish.
 
Thanks, but . . .

How does one remove valves? (sorry, I'm sure there's an easy answer that I just can't find.)

--tom
 
I removed mine with a valve spring compressor (there are a couple of different kind) if you have the head off you can use the small one with two tongs inside and two tongs out side (sort of like a small gear puller with a handle that screws down on the retainer while the bottom two tongs hold it in place and the upper two tongs compress the spring as they are seated on the spring retainer) you can get them at most auto parts stores and some will loan them to you (e.g., autozone). You compress the spring, remove the key locks, pull the spring off and then the umbrella seals. I usually set the head on it's side and try to push the valves through and out the combustion chamber. If they are stubborn you may need a soft (brass or hard rubber) hammer and tap it a little on the end of the stem. Oh, removing your rocker arm makes it much easier. The key locks can be a little heard to get out especially if the center part of your valve retaineris stuck up on the locks. While you have it in the spring compressor gently tap the center piece at it's edge with a soft drift punch until it drops. Ocassionally if you can't get your fingers in to pull out the keys a small pen magnet helps.

Of course I am assuming your head is off the block? Wait for others to share with you how they did it. They may have a better way of doing it than I do...Oh, get Dennis and Davids Fordsix Handbook it is a lifesaver, and an absolute must for these small six cylinder engines.
 
Hi Tom,

Yup, I do just like Jack and use a drill. Take care to not put too much pressure on the valves stem when you stick it in the drill's chuck (if you got a hand tightening chuck - no problem). I've done them both ways: one, to clamp the drill in a vise and hold the sandpaper to the face (wear thick leather gloves). used the drill press and gently touched the face to the sand paper.

I also use coarse (80) to fine (400) sand paper, taking several steps of gradually finer sand paper.

You can probably rent a valve spring compressor at your auto parts store. If not, Sears has a "C" shaped compressor for about $30.

Since you've milled your head, be certain to use your Dremel and slightly round the sharp edges of the combustion chamber (gasket surface of the "D" shape).

Thanks, Darwin, for the kind words.

Good Luck
 
God, Im so glad my father has a valve grinder (and Ive done thousands of valves on that dang old machine). 90 miles to pure bliss.

Id go to a machine shop and see how much it would cost to have a slight refacing done. May be cheaper than you think. Also shows if valves are bent (since the valve sits in a seat that spins perfectly round, and rubs against a consistent cutter wheel).

Plus, theres only 12 that have to be done! Very simple, yet consistent and thorough job at the right shop.
 
I would check around at prices. I paid $20 to have 3 valve faces grinded and also the corresponding 3 seats grinded on their 3 angles.
 
Back
Top