How to add computer controlled timing

From what ive seen, For the TFI distributor, you have to wire the hall effect up to switched 12v power, ground(or Sniper green wire) and the Sniper trigger input(purple wire). Modify the reluctor wheel to have even vanes. Set everything else up as Holley suggests for their Dual Sync distributor.

As long as you don't have issues with the VR, it sounds like the HEI is the easiest way for you.
 
Alright, well, I was successful!

I locked out the HEI, and switch the system over to magnetic pickup and away it went.

The adjustment knob mentioned in the video was phenomenal for phasing it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7 ... UTF8&psc=1

I would suggest anyone who goes this route to get one as it made phasing the rotor a total cakewalk. I got it close enough to start up, and then told the system to hold a static timing of 10°. My lining up the internals got it close enough to sit at 12°, so I just turned the knob while pointing the timing light until it sat right at 10.

Inductive delay had to be raised to about 250us for the timing mark not to move when I revved the engine.
Working perfectly now. :D


So, I must say, after going through the process once, all of the above info about the TFI module makes a whole lot more sense.
I understood what the info was for, but I didn't get how it all went together until I saw it first hand.
I'll stick with this setup for now, since it's working well, but I might take a stab at the TFI sometime later down the road.

Thanks all.
 
AbandonedBronco":1w4isk7k said:
Alright, well, I was successful!

I locked out the HEI, and switch the system over to magnetic pickup and away it went.

The adjustment knob mentioned in the video was phenomenal for phasing it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7 ... UTF8&psc=1

I would suggest anyone who goes this route to get one as it made phasing the rotor a total cakewalk. I got it close enough to start up, and then told the system to hold a static timing of 10°. My lining up the internals got it close enough to sit at 12°, so I just turned the knob while pointing the timing light until it sat right at 10.

Inductive delay had to be raised to about 250us for the timing mark not to move when I revved the engine.
Working perfectly now. :D


So, I must say, after going through the process once, all of the above info about the TFI module makes a whole lot more sense.
I understood what the info was for, but I didn't get how it all went together until I saw it first hand.
I'll stick with this setup for now, since it's working well, but I might take a stab at the TFI sometime later down the road.

Thanks all.

Sorry to do that to you. Everyone cannot manage what they cannot understand.
 
Hello and thanks in advance , I have a quick question about this as I’m running a ford tfi distributor currently , although I’m just getting this build done and haven’t actually driven it yet , only have i started and ran it as I’m currently working out other issues . I’ve built a little 387 stroker for a mustang and running a msd 6al2 programmable box to control the timing , a blaster coil , and the oem fuel injected tfi module distributor , however I have just wired it using only the bottom 3 terminals on the distributor and leaving the others unhooked , one is ground , one is key on 12v key on and cranking wire , and the other I have running to the white wire of the 6al2 box . I have my overall crank timing or distributor set to I believe 30° or 35° and in the msd pro-data software you can only pull timing so I have a retard setup obviously from 0-1200rpm of like -20° for starting purposes and then just a basic ramp allowing timing back into it as rpm comes up and all in by 3500rpm up to 6500 or whatever . So far I’m not noticing any issues, It start just fine for the most part , idle seems smooth and with a timing light it seems to follow what I have in the msd software. Now this is the first time I’ve ran a carbed application personally hence the reason for this post , I don’t want to be missing something here, and having a cylinder running different or something and have issues. After reading a lot about this I’m pretty sure there are going to be issues like this correct ??
 
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