How to lift/drop in engine

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
When I had the new engine by itself, I used one of the rear bellhousing holes in the block and one on the front pass. side near the very front of the block.

But now, when I go to drop it in, with the trans attached, what (where) should I use? I have a load leveler, but I'm not sure where to attach the chains. I would like to keep the valve cover on.

Thanks,
 
I use one of the rear exhaust manifold bolts, and I have a lifting eye attached to where the road draft/pcv attaches.
 
Whoa!@.

Take it slow. You have plenty of holes in the engine and manifold to use. Stuff a rag in the carb or use any holes on both sides. (exhaust, fuel pump, etc) Two point pkup is OK..three is better. You can used eyebolts or bolts through chain or even modify clamps.

Consider safety FRIST and use strong chain or safety straps. Get the engine rigged to when it lifts, it is level and you can push it down tranny first. Try an get only a few inches of the ground to know if its level first. Never keep feet or body parts under the engine just in case.

Uh...how did you get it out???? Probably do a search for engine removal on the forum.
 
Ha, you beat me to the reply Jammer. I haven't pulled mine out - still in the car. I'm hoping to pull it out, take the trans off and drop it off at the rebuild shop. The new engine is on a hoist in my garage.
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Thanks Wallaka,
What about if you have 4 chain-points (it’s actually two chains with both ends attached, thus, 4 points)? I think I have a few spots “picked outâ€￾ such as the motor mounts, the power steering holes in the block, the exhaust manifold, perhaps the rear bellhousing if it will work to my advantage. I am just wondering how easy it will be (depending on my mount locations) to slide it into the bay.

I’ll do some lookin around and see if I can get a good symmetrical hookup. Thanks again,
 
4 is great to...but you have to be able to swing and tilt the assy.

2 is safe but its tough to pivot. 3 is great cuz you pivot on one. (actually you pivot on two with one getting slack.

So whatever you do....do it safely...aint no fun to break you feet
 
You can find these factory hook brackets on many engines in the boneyards.

200_rebuild.jpg
 
I know my (old) engine has this big stupid bracket on it. I might try to use a hacksaw and make it into a lift-hook. it's like 3/4" thick, and mounted in the same spot as the one you posted.

Still not sure about that rear one though. Maybe I can find one out in the yards
 
yea man, my engine has the big loops on it like the pic above.

happy to hear your getting that thing in 8)
 
If you need to, some old flat or better angle iron. Cut it to about 12" long. Drill out two holes for the mounting bolts. Make em and save em! The brackets you make will look like the ones in the picture.

Its not that hard. I could probably do it! maybe? :shock:
 
250mav":28dr8pwu said:
yea man, my engine has the big loops on it like the pic above.

happy to hear your getting that thing in 8)

psh, just send me yours :)

...

That's a good point - I will see about making them. Geez I wish I had 26 hours in a day
 
mysavioreigns":2o4i1wjz said:
250mav":2o4i1wjz said:
yea man, my engine has the big loops on it like the pic above.

happy to hear your getting that thing in 8)

psh, just send me yours :)

my engine or the loops? your the one with the fresh rebuild so i'd be happy to just trade the whole engine if you wanted. as for the loops i hope to have that brick out of there one day for something a little better :)
 
Here is how NOT to do it. I had to hook things that low because of ceiling clearance. Caused all sorts of problems. On the way back in I did it outside where there was no height issue and used the bolt holes over the oil filter (where the hook was in the earlier picture) and the extra bell housing holes in the back of the block. If you have the larger bell or the early block I guess those are not options. Getting the motor out was one of those things I should have thought out better and waited for some help but you know how those things go sometimes..... I just got mad and stupid and pushed ahead anyway.

P1010012.jpg
 
you guys are all doing it wrong. I always just take the air cleaner off and use a chain and put the stud through it.... the wing nut makes for a fast and simple fastner
 
I once used a lift arm on an old Ford 9N tractor to pull an engine out.

Wouldn't have been so bad, except the tractor's hydraulics were jerky on the way up, and kept leaking down. And it was inside a garage, making it hard to not stick the lift hook through the ceiling.

Once.
 
jamyers":1n28ujz0 said:
I once used a lift arm on an old Ford 9N tractor to pull an engine out.

Wouldn't have been so bad, except the tractor's hydraulics were jerky on the way up, and kept leaking down. And it was inside a garage, making it hard to not stick the lift hook through the ceiling.

Once.

thats actually how I got my motor in/out of my 68 when I pulled it... I dunno what kind of tractor it is but it also had a small leak and I kept having to get it up and it was alos jerky... it was still fun though...
 
Well I hope mine doesn't crap out on me, I've only had it a month.

Did some looking around on the block and found a few spots I think might work. I'll have to see if the chain is long enough to go to the bottom.

Tom, you really used the carb bolt spot? I was thinking about it, but that doesn't seem very strong haha
 
mysavioreigns":1kzs5tzv said:
Tom, you really used the carb bolt spot? I was thinking about it, but that doesn't seem very strong haha

Nyahhh, he really just ties the sparkplug wires to the lift. :lol:
 
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