How to make cable throttle?
- Thread starter CobraSix
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
I believe you must get everything including the pedal from a late model Mustang. What we have doesn't work with a cable linkage.
Go to the bone yard and locate a 1978 or later fairmont throttle cable linkage, including the pedal! if you still have the log head it will work just fine, if you have a aussie 2v head it will be about 7 inches short, and then you will have to replace the cable and make it longer to fit the length you need!
G
Guest
Guest
With the 'late model' 200/250s, the cable pulls from the driver's side over the valve cover, so it is 90 degrees off from what you have now. Because you are going with the offy, you won't be able to use that system directly, but you can at least grab the gas pedal and work from there.
Al
Al
A
Anonymous
Guest
I can see that it would be no biggie to switch if your running a stick.
How do you guys address the issue of having to hook up a kick down linkage to the cable type throttle linkage?? The later style kick down linkage doesnt look easy at all to hook up to me, especially if you are running a totally different carb setup than stock.
I just could be confused though...
Later,
Doug
How do you guys address the issue of having to hook up a kick down linkage to the cable type throttle linkage?? The later style kick down linkage doesnt look easy at all to hook up to me, especially if you are running a totally different carb setup than stock.
I just could be confused though...
Later,
Doug
A
Anonymous
Guest
I used the Lokar kickdown cable made for the C4. Had no problem installing it. Hooks up perfectly at the tranny end. The carb. end may be a little problem, depending on which carb. you are using. Luckily, on my 1946 I was able to use one of the threaded holes on the side of the carb. where the idle stop solenoid used to be to mount the bracket. Then, I just ran the cable through the hole in the accelerator lever on the carb. where the idle stop solenoid adjusting screw used to be (which lined up perfectly w/ the rest of the cable) and adjusted it to where I wanted it.
Very simple to install. But, like I said, depending on your carb. you may have to modify the bracket that attaches to the carb.
Very simple to install. But, like I said, depending on your carb. you may have to modify the bracket that attaches to the carb.
This isn't a rod to cable conversion,more like a transmission valve cable issue but perhaps there's some info here to help!
My conversion of my Weber ADM Aussie cross flow to a #2300 Holley was a real head scratcher!
I saw the Lokar set up on a 1936 Ford V8 /5.0 conversion with the AOD4 auto. I copied the system as much as I could, and then threw in two other types until I got one working properly. The Aussie Falcons ran a busted ass Borg Warner 35 auto tranny from a 1959 Pommy Ford Zephyr, updated to hack another 100 cubes. Anyway, it has a very sophisticated throttle kickdown mechanism which looks simple, but is one of the most sensitve auto set -ups ever. Get it wrong, and it'll take your clutch pack out in no time. In that respect its very like the early AOD4 trans.
The Weber carb had the linkgae just like the Carter carb on a US 200/250. The kickdown runs off the same spindle. Adjust the curb idle, adust the kickdown. My problem was the Holley 2300 cable needed to be spun 90 degrees, and the kicdown reworked. I ended up using the Chrysler Torqueflite 6 kickdown mechanism, and a new kickdown cable. Then I grabbed a Pinto-style Cortina cable, and added another two feet to it. What a silly choice! It wasn't smmoth enough inside and added so much drag that you'd have thought it was a foot operated park brake! So that got biffed, and replaced with a flat wound Isuzu Truck cable runing a hybrid of Chrysler kickdown, Cortina ball and a (get this) Rochestor 2CG throttle spindle. (The Holley#2300 and bigger 2-jet RP carbs had the same butterfly design). Now it looks ewww yuk, but works like a charm. And 150 000 miles on a undersized, breakage prone trans is testament to it!
If you guys are running auto's, make sure the acclerator carries no load from the kickdown cable without a spring to help it, and ensure that the kickdown pull-out is the same on your new set up as it was on a stocker. If the pedal doesn't sit exactly as the original, and is to heavy or too like with a dicky recoil, get some gumption and keep cracking at it until you do. Car makers spend millions on these things, so make an effort.
My conversion of my Weber ADM Aussie cross flow to a #2300 Holley was a real head scratcher!
I saw the Lokar set up on a 1936 Ford V8 /5.0 conversion with the AOD4 auto. I copied the system as much as I could, and then threw in two other types until I got one working properly. The Aussie Falcons ran a busted ass Borg Warner 35 auto tranny from a 1959 Pommy Ford Zephyr, updated to hack another 100 cubes. Anyway, it has a very sophisticated throttle kickdown mechanism which looks simple, but is one of the most sensitve auto set -ups ever. Get it wrong, and it'll take your clutch pack out in no time. In that respect its very like the early AOD4 trans.
The Weber carb had the linkgae just like the Carter carb on a US 200/250. The kickdown runs off the same spindle. Adjust the curb idle, adust the kickdown. My problem was the Holley 2300 cable needed to be spun 90 degrees, and the kicdown reworked. I ended up using the Chrysler Torqueflite 6 kickdown mechanism, and a new kickdown cable. Then I grabbed a Pinto-style Cortina cable, and added another two feet to it. What a silly choice! It wasn't smmoth enough inside and added so much drag that you'd have thought it was a foot operated park brake! So that got biffed, and replaced with a flat wound Isuzu Truck cable runing a hybrid of Chrysler kickdown, Cortina ball and a (get this) Rochestor 2CG throttle spindle. (The Holley#2300 and bigger 2-jet RP carbs had the same butterfly design). Now it looks ewww yuk, but works like a charm. And 150 000 miles on a undersized, breakage prone trans is testament to it!
If you guys are running auto's, make sure the acclerator carries no load from the kickdown cable without a spring to help it, and ensure that the kickdown pull-out is the same on your new set up as it was on a stocker. If the pedal doesn't sit exactly as the original, and is to heavy or too like with a dicky recoil, get some gumption and keep cracking at it until you do. Car makers spend millions on these things, so make an effort.
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