How to Manage Engine Compartment Heat

[Greg]

Ever since I installed Clifford headers on my mustang engine compartment heat has risen dramatically. I was hoping for some advice managing the extra heat. I have been told in the past that header wrapping destroys the headers, etc, but is there anything out there people would recommend?

Also could someone recommend a cold air intake kit/carb adapter for a Holley Webber 5200?

How does everyone else manage the engine compartment heat?

Thanks,
Greg F.

67' Mustang 200ci. I6
Clifford Dual output headers
Dual Exhaust
Duraspark II Ignition
FSPP cam
HW 5200 Carb
Soon to be complete 5 lug suspension... 200K miles 7.25 in rear getting replace by rebuilt 8 inch rear

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Greg:

This time of year, it seems everyone has excessive heat issues. Here are some things I've already done and a couple I plan to do. I have a '65 Ranchero with a modified 250 and an SROD four speed. I live at about 5,000 ft elevation with hot dry day times in the summer.
*I had my header coated by HPC in SLC. It seems cooler then when I had a cast log.
*enriched the Idle circuit.
*180 degree thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze/water and water wetter added.
*Adapted a Climatic Air Cleaner system from an '81 LTD to get outside air to the carb, which is a Holley 2300, 500 cfm.
*Reduced the initial advance from 20 to 16 degrees. Remember, I'm at 5,000 Ft. Run no more initial advance needed to get optimum performance and economy for your engine and location. Some folks are tempted- If 14 is good, then 16 has to be better. I think it is called the "Dolly Parton" principle. In fact, you may not get additional perfromance and economy with those two extra degrees of advance. What you will get is more engine heat- not what you want.
Things I've yet to do-
*adapt an air dam from a Taurus to the bottom of the radiator support to create a higher pressure in front of the radiator and lower pressure behind it. It's not as cool looking as the chin spoilers, but works better at getting more air into the engine compartment and hot air out underneath the car.
*Electric engine fan.
I've considered an AC water pump, but have not gone that way yet, because they are a parasitic drag on power. Hot summer usually only last a couple of month here. The AC pumps have a plate on the front of the impeller that causes them to move more coolant.
*Heat deflector/sheild seperating the carb from the lower engine heat.
*wrapping fuel line with insulating material where it wraps around the engine. Heat soak will happen anyway, eventually, especially when shutting of a hot engine.

Hope that helps.

Adios, David

 

[woodbutcher]

Many years ago in Florida a friend had some problems with excessive engine compartment heat.His solution was to install a hood scoop with the opening facing the cowl to vent the excess heat.He used a side cowl off of a VW bus.Under the scoop he fabricated a sliding door(for lack of a better description)powered by a vacuum motor to open and close it.Worked like a champ.Open for Summer.Closed for winter.Or any position in between.
Leo

 

[rickwrench]

I've stuffed a lot of large engines into little cars over the years. Cooling is always an issue to address. Jet-hot or other ceramic header coatings help a lot, but the remaining hot air in the engine bay still needs a good escape route. In all cases I've been involved with, there was one modification that made a significant change in engine compartmnet heat. That was cutting vents from the engine bay to the front fender wells. The fender wells are very low pressure areas, and, when the car is moving, hot air will be sucked out of the engine compartment through such vents. Air flows through the radiator easier, absorbs heat from the headers and shoots out the vents. In a no vent situation, that hot air tumbles around in the engine compartment before being pressured out the the bottom of the compartment, reducing radiator efficiency.

Below is a vent in a 215-V8 MGB.

This vent pulls hot air right off the exhaust manifold, good, but also lets tire splash into the engine compartment, not so good. A small splash sheild would help in this case. In a Falcon/Mustang, be careful not to compromise a "structural" peice of sheet metal.
Rick(wrench)

 

[yodabiri]

would a cowl induction hood also help to draw out extra heat from the engine compartemnt?

 

[rickwrench]

Nope. It will make the situation worse. You'll have air trying to get into the engine compartment through the radiator AND the cowl induction opening.
Back facing hood scoops will work, but they have to far away from the windshield.
Rick(wrench)

 

[250mav]

when I shut off my maverick and put my hand infront of the scoop I can feel Alot of heat escaping. dont know how well it works while actually driving. In the next few days it will be blocked off and ran in to the carb so i guess it really dont matter

 

[65coupei6]

On most Mustangs there is a plastic seal or strip located at the rear of the hood on the cowel. You can remove that to let the hot air escape.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

The lower windshield/cowl/back of the hood is a high pressure area when in motion. That's why it works good for the air intake of the cowl vent and heater. The other down side of using the top of the car for heat removal or air intake is that rain water and debris can get into the engine compartment- not good.

The tighter you can keep the hood sealed, the better the grill intake of cool air and under car exit of hot air will work.

Standing still is the exception. If heat soak on shut off is a problem, the simple solution is to pop the hood open for a few minutes.

Adios, David

 

[jamyers]

I think the best option is some sort of chin spoiler or air dam. Doesn't have to be fancy, just look at the straight rubber deflectors under the radiators on a newer car/truck.

As far as holes/vents in the hood, everybody's right about not putting them at the back of the hood. If you can get away with it, the sides will work - I drilled out the hood venti-ports on my Buick, it made a noticeable difference in underhood heat. Don't know how you'd do similar on a Ford, tho...

 

[rickwrench]

Here's a pic of a 74 Alfa GTV on the roto. This one got a Ford 302. You can see the inner fender vents clearly.

Rick(wrench)

 

[addo]

Hey Rick, on your mate's GTV, why did he face the louvres forward? I'd have thought that pointing them the other way would improve scavenging.

 

[kukm66]

I am in agreement with Rick on the side vents. I plan to cut slots in the inner fender aprons at the back to vent the hot air. I have a friend here in Phoenix who did this also with his 62 Futura. He told me there were drastic changes in the summer temperature after perfomring this mod.

The bottom line here is that the air has to be routed out of the engine bay and the design of these bays is not efficient.

 

[ludwig]

How about insulating pipe wrap on the headers. It's supposed to reduce temps dramatically. Of course it voids the warranty on the header.

 

[rickwrench]

Hey Rick, on your mate's GTV, why did he face the louvres forward? I'd have thought that pointing them the other way would improve scavenging.

It's to keep water thrown off the wheels out of the engine bay. Water thrown off the wheels mostly follows the rotation of the wheels. I don't think the louver direction makes a significant difference in airflow out of the engine compartment. Especially larger ones, like Luiz cut.
Rick(wrench)

 

[MustangSix]

That's the first GTV I think I've ever seen whose floor was not made out of rust!

 

[LaGrasta]

very interesting thread. I like Rick's idea for the well louvers. I have no idea how I would add them, but I like the theory.

 

[CobraSix]

I think CZLN is right on target.

Proper tuning is key. I only run 8* advanced and have ceramic coated headers. My engine never gets above 170* with a 180* t-stat and then engine back can be worked in immediately after turning the car off (with except of touching the block or headers. But the bay temps have drastically cooled off. You can now touch the hood and not burn your hand.

Slade

 

[69Falcon]

Has anyone thought of adding vents to the fenders so that they'd show on the outside as well? (Think mid-'70s TransAm... and please don't flame me for the non-ford reference.) Or what about louvers on the hood, old hotrod style?