How to pics of my Duraspark II conversion

Here is how I did mine. $3 surplus intel heat sink. I was surprised how warm it runs so I faced it forward so it could maybe catch air flow from the fan. Like most electronics heat kills. I dont know if on the block would be good. GM had them in the dizzys so they were not quite direct to the block.

hei2.jpg
 
thanks fordconvert, i expanded on your heatsink idea. i couldnt find one that long, but heres how im keeping mine cool.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/patrickL727/l032.jpg

i went in looking for a heatsink, but all they had came with fans already. so i bought one for $5, and i decided to keep the fan. the only thing i dont like about it is the blue LED lights in it, but ill find a way to shut them off (hopefully).

edit: i think i may have broke my fan... i was testing it out on the block with everything hooked up using a 9 volt battery to the + and - (engine is out of the car). anyways now it just lights up, but doesnt spin. im going to get another one and try again tomorrow.
 
I'd be wary of a fan, if it quit you wouldn't know it until the module had a melt-down. Nothing to break with a heatsink.

I mounted my GM HEI module to a large heatsink on the underside of the driver's side export brace. You've got to look for it to see it.
 
woodbutcher":3lj6m9yu said:
:D Patric,if the fan is 12 Volt powered fan it might not work on 9 volts.
Leo

its a 12v fan, but i had it working with the 9v when i tested it before i put it on the module. i think i figured out what i did wrong though.

jamyers":3lj6m9yu said:
I'd be wary of a fan, if it quit you wouldn't know it until the module had a melt-down. Nothing to break with a heatsink.

I mounted my GM HEI module to a large heatsink on the underside of the driver's side export brace. You've got to look for it to see it.

its still got a heatsink, but its not a big one. i just didnt see any reason not to use the fan, it came with it. can you post some pics of yours.
 
:D If it is a computer heatsink fan, I would`nt worry too much about it failing.The heatsink fan on my computer has been running 24/7 for about 5 YEARS,and is doing fine.The only time that it has not run is when we have a power outage.
Leo
 
Patrick66":2bzmqnaz said:
... can you post some pics of yours.
Sure! Here's a view from below - stuck the camera down behind the coil and hip-shot upwards. Got mostly the rear of it.
HEI003.jpg

Another, showing the front end. That's the brake light switch sticking out there.
HEI002.jpg

Here's all you can see from above, 2 screwheads and a bit of wiring poking out.
HEI001.jpg
 
Here's mine. I temporarily set a 12V wire from the solenoid. WhenI throw the switch to run off the resistor, it either dies or runs rough.
GMHEIwithGnd.jpg
 
BIGREDRASA":3mw18aac said:
Here's mine. I have temporarily set a 12V wire from the solenoid.
...
Be careful about pulling voltage from the switched side of the starter solenoid, if it starts to go out you can fry the ignition wires when you start the engine (and it tries to pull all those amps through those itty bitty wires).

Don't ask me how I know that. :cry:
 
jamyers":3n85dkkr said:
Be careful about pulling voltage from the switched side of the starter solenoid, if it starts to go out you can fry the ignition wires when you start the engine (and it tries to pull all those amps through those itty bitty wires).

Don't ask me how I know that. :cry:

It's coming off the unswitched side, with a shutoff switch. When I get done with the installation, I'll switch out the ballast resistor wire.
 
A couple points here. If you short the +12V and "S" lead on the solenoid, the engine will start and run as long as those contacts are shorted.

And, there is no way to check timing with the key off unless you leave the +12V and "S" lead shorted, but that would keep your starter and engine running. Not good.

From original post:

"Prior to first starting the car, set up the timing light and crank the engine with the key off while checking the timing. Once is is close, go ahead and start the car."
 
MustangSix":x1r6xm8y said:
Another point of info, the small distributor cap (GP Sorenson #96 or 96B) will fit the DSII as well.
Ask "parts boy" for a cap that fits a 74 Maverick.....

FR96.jpg

I wouldn't do that. With the higher voltage, there is more chance of cross-firing. I had a turbo VW sandrail
that on three occasions, it popped once and bent both pushrods on the same cylinder. he only thing that
could do that is if it fired during the valve-overlap. None of the so called VW engineers/experts/builder/
racers could tell me what caused it. Finally, I pulled the dizzy cap off and saw this:

Dizzy1.jpg


The spark is jumping from the center post to a plug terminal. And yes, it did have an MSD6AL on it.
If you ever get bitten by one of those, you willl never forget. Bam, Bam, Bam. Three hits

Dizzy2.jpg
 
Great post. Thanks Joe!

Has anyone taken this article one step closer to "idiot-proof"? What I'm hoping for is the parts list to walk into Autozone or Checker and say "give me these".

I've tried looking through Autozone online using a 78 Fairmont as the car and think I have identified the proper distributor, cap, rotor, and module. Would be great though if someone has already done that and confirm the parts.
 
You could try looking here.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50241&start=50

PM me if your need specifics.

Good luck finding it all at the same store.
It can all be ordered if you can wait a day or two.

Dist 302690 $54.99 Checker or AZ
Cap F952 $9.99 Autozone
Rotor F953 $3.99 Autozone
Coil C819 $18.99 Autozone
Module DR100 $18.99 Autozone
Wire Set 1428 $21.99 Autozone
Adapter F960 $7.49 Autozone
Spring kit 925D $6.49 Checker
 
frogmn666":6qonecgg said:
You could try looking here.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50241&start=50

PM me if your need specifics.

Good luck finding it all at the same store.
It can all be ordered if you can wait a day or two.

Dist 302690 $54.99 Checker or AZ
Cap F952 $9.99 Autozone
Rotor F953 $3.99 Autozone
Coil C819 $18.99 Autozone
Module DR100 $18.99 Autozone
Wire Set 1428 $21.99 Autozone
Adapter F960 $7.49 Autozone
Spring kit 925D $6.49 Checker

Dude! You hooked me up! Thanks.
Is the spring kit for "re-curving" the distributor? Is this necessary, or instead, another upgrade?
 
Checker would have had to order the spring kit, so I didn't get it. I got it running, but can't get it to idle below 1100 rpm. I think the small spring is too soft.
 
frogmn666":sg2j9w4r said:
Checker would have had to order the spring kit, so I didn't get it. I got it running, but can't get it to idle below 1100 rpm. I think the small spring is too soft.

So changing the spring will fix the idle problem?
 
JoeTrojan,
I have a 1966 mustang with a 200 I6 and have read your post about the distributor conversion with interest. I cannot access the link you show in your initial post and was wondering if it has been moved. Can you give me the updated link so I can read the article. Much thanks.

Joe
 
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