I think I got ripped



Just got my head back. $235 dollars!!!!.
Clean and crack check
Competition valve job & shims 90
.060 mill head 30
Mill exhaust 25
Bowl Hoge & blend (whatever that means?) 60
Valve Springs 30.00

What do you guys think?
Doesn't sound too bad to me. -- Did they put in new valves or seats? By competition valve job do you mean 3 angle?
Sounds pretty reasonable to me, locally a straight valve job is 140$ and if you need hardened seats put it it starts at 180$, 40$ for cleaning the head and disassembly. 40$/hr for machine work, they told me it would be about 1-1.5hrs to mill my head that far.

I paid $380 I thinik for mine two years ago. this included hardened seats, .020" mill, assembly (including rocker asembly) and gasket kit.

Thats about what I paid for mine also....Sounds like a fair price to me ;)


the advantage you guys have is you can pull your head yourself.

anyone wanna come and remove my 200 head. I['ll spring for all the beer and pizza you want!
I'll pass on the ginger beer and vegan pizza offer, Chaz. Just pulled Dan's head (good friend) because it cracked terminally, and he can't lift heavy stuff with a ruined back. They don't get lighter with age! :LOL:

I always crack the head bolts with the torque wrench, to see what they were at.

Usually the toughest bit is breaking the gasket seal. And then lifting it clear. The rest is just messy until it is done.

Regards, Adam.
Pulling the head was not hard at all... took less than 30 minutes... I did have another hand help pull it off and out, but basically no tough thing.

Have a go... get some extra hands and wear gloves. Most of my bolts came out too easy in my opinion.
Jimbo65":sb6uc4lb said:
Most of my bolts came out too easy in my opinion.
That's been my observation. 40-50 foot-pounds seems common enough. Maybe we should tell newbies to retorque first!
I was thinking of starting with re-tourque-ing when I got my umbrella seals done. My valve cover is coming soon ( Thanks Rob) and then on to the repairs

good advice Addo...retorquing

Right on, two of mine did not even need a breaker bar for, they were loose. I would recommend every newbie to retorque. I found other bolts that were not set either... bellhousing had a couple, tans mounts were loose too.... just an observation, but vibration problems I had might have been related to the loose bolts.... :shock:
I had a mechanic tell me that my shifter was loose and worn out. It vibrates like hell and sounds like a small bell constantly ringing. He said I needed a whole shifter. I just have been dealing with it.

Yesterday I got curious and yanked (yeah,now I need to replace that too) the shifter boot up.Turns out, the bolts had been worn down so they were a smaller diameter. THAT was why it was vibrating. A $2.00 fix (plus the boot).

check every bolt guys!
i know that on my 200ci the shaft the rocker arms is on keeps coming loose, i can usually tell when it's happening because i'll get a tapping sound, but i've re-torqued the bolts to the specs i found in my chilton's about three times, keeps coming loose
any suggestions?
one time it got so loose that the rod came out from under the arm, so i didn't have a valve opening, nasty smoke and no power from running on five cylinders sucks
take all the rocker arm bolts out and clean them reely good then use lock tite on them torqu them to 30-35 lbs
thats it! I am going ot try to do some of these things myself. I will satr next weekend..and make sure to take pictures...

you guys always hit on a symptom of mine...and you make it sound soooo easy to fix.

Valve cover comes off next weekend!
I need lock tight...what else...is there a spray that will clean under there?