Ignition trouble

[62 Comet]

Hey guys, wired up the DSII igntion as CI how to section says and I got power on one side of the resistor and none on the other end and the resistor getting real hot, was hoping you guys could help me out. Its the Dyna Mod set from CI

Thanks, Lee

 

[Econoline]

Sounds like the resistor is going to ground on the one side. If you put a lead on either side of the resistor do you get 12v?

 

[62 Comet]

.

 

[62 Comet]

Checked the voltages out, had 11 volts on one side of the resistor and 4.5V on the other side going to the coil, not sure if this is right but this thing gets real hot fast.

 

[woodbutcher]

Try a replacement resistor.Sounds like yours took a dump.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[Econoline]

The fact that the resistor is getting hot implies it's got alot of voltage going through it steady to ground from the battery. That's what resistors do, they burn off the excess voltage as heat. Have you got the car running yet? You should have whatever the battery is putting out upstream of the resistor not 11v, but this could indicate also that it is bleeding to ground @ the coil. Maybe bad coil, miswiring, or a short to ground somewhere at or between the resistor and the coil.

 

[62 Comet]

Did a little more work this morning and checked my connections they seemed fine,

one thing that I did find was the 12V line that I spliced to go to the coil/resistor, where it connects to the resistor, unplugged there's 12.4 volts, plug it on the resistor and put the meter on that connection and then there's 10.9~11 volts.

 

[62 Comet]

Hey guys, another number that I got was I measured the Resistance of the resistor, on the side of it says 1 Ohm and my reading was 1.4 Ohms so that doesn't seem like it could cause an issue but is the resistor the issue here? Im getting a 8 volt drop across this thing.

 

[bubba22349]

That's about right if it's at 8 volts output to coil with the key in the run position, so the resistor is then doing its job. If you have less then 8 volts output you may need to run a new wire from your ignition switch you might have a built in resistor wire (pink) already or still in the original wire harness from run position of the ignition switch if that's so it would be dropping the voltage to much. Good luck

 

[Econoline]

Did you check resistance of your leads by shorting them together and then subracting that number from the reading across the resistor? Disconnect the wire from the coil and check voltage. Also get an ohm reading across the the coil with both wires disconnected and check continuity from the + connector to the body of the coil. Shouldn't be below about .75 Ohms across the coil. Also you never said whether you were getting voltage checking from any 12v+ source to the negative side of the coil with the wiring hooked up as is? You could also do a continuity test from the negative coil wire @ the connector to a known ground to see if the coil negative is shorting to ground somehow. Could be a bad module.

 

[62 Comet]

That's about right if it's at 8 volts output to coil with the key in the run position, so the resistor is then doing its job.:

Sorry bad use of words, I meant that its going in at 12.4V and coming out ~4.5V so about a 8V drop, my bad

What I did with the pink wire was cut it and isolate the ends like the how to on CI, can that be done at a wrong spot? cause I just grabbed it at the first spot I saw it. And I also removed the wire going to the "I" terminal of the solenoid, apparently its a backfeed or something? again from the how to on CI.

I spliced into a 12V wire that goes to my voltmeter and ran that to the resistor.

Lee

 

[Econoline]

Is the module 12v+ wired in BEFORE the resistor? That diagram on CI shows it wired w/o the resistor and the module wired to coil +. The module should be wired to the switched 12v+ before the resistor. And I'd dbl check your connections are correct to the module if you haven't already.

Sounds like you did fine with the pink wire, that is to remove the old ballast wire from the circuit.

 

[62 Comet]

In the written part they say while getting a 12V source to the coil, they say that would be the time to install the resistor for dyna mod case.

So ive got a 12V wire spliced under the dash, going to the resistor then from the resistor to the + on the coil. Yay or nay?

Then from diz to mod: purple to gray/white,,,orange to gray,, and black to ground.

Mod to coil: blue/yellow to coil "-",,, and black/? to coil "+"

Ill put up the diagram that came with the dynamo tomorrow


engine is fresh rebuild so no run time on it yet

 

[62 Comet]

Heres the diagram that came with the module and stuff, I did it just like that the wires that go to the coil are a bit hard to see but it appears the black from the mod goes to the + of the coil.

Since I have 12V right up to the resistor my re wiring inside the car should be good right?

http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=0

 

[MustangSix]

That's your problem. The black wire goes to coil (-).

 

[bubba22349]

I have run that type of module with a point distributor as the trigger on my old 56 truck for many years now and it's a good system. I think you have it close on the wiring though I can't make it out in the picture the black and blue / yellow wire hook ups to the coil and my truck is stored to far away where I can double check it for you. Have you looked at this tech article (link below) that goes through that complete install? Hope it is of some help, good luck.

http://www.classicinlines.com/DSIIswap.asp#Install

 

[62 Comet]

That's your problem. The black wire goes to coil (-).

Cool ill do some switching around then, thanks

I have run that type of module with a point distributor as the trigger on my old 56 truck for many years now and it's a good system. I think you have it close on the wiring though I can't make it out in the picture the black and blue / yellow wire hook ups to the coil and my truck is stored to far away where I can double check it for you. Have you looked at this tech article (link below) that goes through that complete install? Hope it is of some help, good luck.

http://www.classicinlines.com/DSIIswap.asp#Install

Oh ya I got that page bookmarked, love that there so much info here and on CI, and yah the diagram they give isn't very easy to see in spots

 

[62 Comet]

Ok, so I switched the two wires on the coil.

I turned the key, bright GEN light then it went out, found out actually very dim same with the dome light when turning the key on, had only ~3V at + of coil? Checked out all my fuses they were good put light switch back into dash, now light seemed to stay bright with 5.5V at the + of the coil. Resistor also real hot

You guys know whats going on? Ground?

 

[bubba22349]

The diagram that MustangSix posted is a great one and makes it real easy to understand, I am fairly sure that's how it's wired on my 56 too. So testing with your volt / ohm meter, with the ignition wire unhooked from the resistor and the ignition switch in the run position do you read 12 volts? If you do then hook it up to one side of the resistor and the other side to the coil + side. Next bring a wire from the start position of the switch or find wire that goes to the S terminal of the Starter Solenoid and tap into it (you won't be using any wires hooked up to the I terminal of the Starter Solenoid) run that new wire from start position of the switch to the + side of the coil or to the output side of the resistor so that it's bypassed and you can get a full 12 volts to the coil only when engaging the starter. The resistor will normally get quite hot so don't worry about that it's doing its job. Good luck

 

[Econoline]

It's hard to tell what's going on with the blue/yel wire in that picture you posted, but in any case I think it is incorrect. I think it should be like the diagram posted above. The blk wire should go to coil (-) and the blue/yel wire should be wired before the resistor, so the module can get 12v. I've never used one of those modules but I believe that is what powers the module like a standard DSII module.

Another thing I don't quite get is that I was under the impression that if you run a TFI coil you don't need a ballast resistor.