I'm pretty sure I have the wrong carb...

[Anonymous]

Howdy.

I have a 1966 170 Engine that I just dropped into my 63 Ranchero.

Originally - the vehicle was a 144 with a 3 speed on the tree.

Now - it has the 170 - and a C4 automatic.

So - I think I just learned that my 170 has a manual trans carb on it.

The one I have on the engine now is labeled C6TF F. It has an attachment
for a manual choke, and no dash pot. The attachment for the throttle is also way too high to be picked up by the gas pedal linkage.

Here is the carb on the engine now:

170 Carb

I have an older carb on a junk 200 (engine and carb both need to be rebuilt) but it appears to have the throttle in the right location, it has a dashpot on it, and an automatic (heat actuated) choke. Even if this carb was in good shape, I would assume that the 200 carb would not work well on the 170. This old beat up carb is labeled D0PF K.

Here is the carb on the junk 200 engine:

200 Carb

So...

The question is - what carb do I need for this new setup, and where would I be able to get one? Basically, I need a 170 carb for an automatic with the throttle connection down low.

Thanks!

-Zim

 

[simon]

The carburetor that you are currently using is an autolite 1101 which came on the bigger 240ci and 300ci sixes; the T-code indicating a truck application. It is very similar in appearance to the autolite 1100 used on falcons and mustangs and even sports the necessary load-o-matic vacuum ports, but in fact it is a whole different carb with its own casting, manual choke provisions and different throttle lever.

For a slight and easy performance upgrade on a 200, this usually is a sought-after carb, since our sixes all came chronically undercarbed from the factory. I have no idea how well (or bad) this big carb will run on a 170 though. On a stock 170 with stock valves, cam and exhaust, intake charge velocity and carburetion might suffer in the desired RPM range, but thats just my assumption. We need further input from other board members here.

The D0-carb is a smog-era holley-designed autolite 1940 commonly used as a factory replacement carb calibrated for reduced emissions on any 200 with IMCO/ thermactor smog equipment.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Simon. This makes sense as the engine I am using appears to have come out of a Bronco originally. It had the funny looking Bronco oil pan on it when I got it.

I am trying to convert it all back to Falcon use now though. Already changed the pan and dipstick location back to the Falcon types.

Anyone know where to find the right carb for my new application?
1966 170 with C4 Trans in a 63 Falcon Ranchero.

Thanks!

-Zim

 

[Bort62]

Well, I have an autolite 1100 I'll trade you for that 1101

It came with my '60 144 when I got it. Ran fine on that motor.

The tag is missing, so I am not sure what it was for originally. It had a dashpot, but I removed it as I have a manual trans, too.

 

[james singleton]

Simon (&Zim), The stock carb that came on my 64' - 170cid engine looked very similar to Zim's first picture; and I will assume that it was the 1100 model based on Simon's info. The second picture looks exactly like what I currently have on my 66'-200cid; and I am pretty sure it is a 1940 model.
Simon, Quesstion: How does the 1940 stack up against the 1101 carb??? I know that you said that the 1940 was a "FACTORY REPLACEMENT CARB (a Holley I believe?) CALIBRATED FOR REDUCED EMISSONS ON ANY 200 WITH IMCO / THERMACTOR SMOG EQUIPMENT"; is the 1940 still a decent carb for the 200?? Thanks, Jim

 

[67Mustang]

I have a stock 1100 that just came off my 67 200 that has the linkage that goes lower than the base of the carb. I did the upgrade to the 2-barrel carb a couple of weeks ago and although every post I could find here said to upgrade to a cable, I just went to Menards and for a total of $1.58 and made my own linkage in about an hour.
I just live 20 minutes north of you. If you would like to take a look at what I have, or would like some help, let me know.

Tom

 

[simon]

Jim:

the 1100 and 1101 look identical at first glance, but closer inspection reveals the little distinctive differences. Both the throttle/bowl body and air horn are different castings, yet their function (idle circuit, open throttle circuit and fuel enrichment) is based on the same design, with slightly differing internals as they were tuned to suit different engines in different applications.

The holley/autolite/motorcraft 1940 is as good or bad as any 1bbl carb of its era; "factory replacement" units however often carry the same part numbers, regardless of year, curb weight and engine displacement.

They were set up from the factory to meet the stricter pollution limits of the late 60's early 70s (much too often much too lean and anaemic for any performance oriented driver) Those shortcomings can be revised by an experienced carb guy if the need arises, but a correct carb in the beginning might be cheaper and easier in many cases.
I'm sorry I can't give you a straight answer - it's the draw of the luck, you might end up with one that feels right at home on your motor, but I know several cases where these carbs (even NOS) weren't performing satisfyingly though.