300ci Increasing get up and go in 90 EFI 300

[JettB]

Hello All!
I am the new owner of a 90 F-150 EFI 300 i6. She is a workhorse, and I love her, but I would like her to be stronger and faster.
hoping to eventually turbo her.
Are electric fans, forged pistons, roller rockers, and a "better" exhaust a good place to start? I'm still watching, reading, and learning the best I can. I would just like some more guidance.
Links to products, other builds, and step-by-step guides would be greatly appreciated, as I have never torn down an engine.
Thank you all

 

[pmuller9]

The best place to start is to replace the stock EFI system with an aftermarket EFI system.
The stock system is very limited on horsepower gains and will not provide the ignition timing control needed for a turbocharged engine.

DFW Syndicate has turbo kits for the 300 six.

How much HP are you looking to gain?

 

[JettB]

The best place to start is to replace the stock EFI system with an aftermarket EFI system.
The stock system is very limited on horsepower gains and will not provide the ignition timing control needed for a turbocharged engine.

DFW Syndicate has turbo kits for the 300 six.

How much HP are you looking to gain?

250 to 300hp I believe is my goal. I'm not super focused on an exact number as I mainly just want a better feel and the sound of that turbo. As well as better low-end torque. Only on wet grass can I get the wheels to spin.

And yea I did see their turbo kit, which is super impressive and probably the easiest route. But I was interested in assembling something myself, both to save money and to gain the experience.

 

[pmuller9]

250 to 300hp I believe is my goal. I'm not super focused on an exact number as I mainly just want a better feel and the sound of that turbo. As well as better low-end torque. Only on wet grass can I get the wheels to spin.

And yea I did see their turbo kit, which is super impressive and probably the easiest route. But I was interested in assembling something myself, both to save money and to gain the experience.

The first place to start is to get an aftermarket EFI system, Holley Terminator X or HP as an example and get it installed and running on your present engine.
Then start looking at engine modifications for the turbocharger.

 

[jgregg13]

Are electric fans, forged pistons, roller rockers, and a "better" exhaust a good place to start?

No. Keep the stock fan unless you have a heating problem, then deal with that. Hypereutectic pistons are readily available for much less $, and should be good for up to 300 HP. Roller rockers are not needed with the stock cam and valve train. With the turbo you may want a little more valve spring, but don't go overboard. Stay with the stock exhaust manifolds as they will work fine with the turbo. A free flow exhaust will help with the N/A application as well as with the turbo.

When it comes to shopping for all the parts to do the turbo kit, look to what the OEMs are doing and generally stock replacement parts are more economical. Also don't rule out the salvage yards. For example an HX35 turbo with integral waste gate starts around $200 on Amazon. And FJ20 injectors are about $25 on Rock Auto.

 

[Frank]

Hello All!
I am the new owner of a 90 F-150 EFI 300 i6. She is a workhorse, and I love her, but I would like her to be stronger and faster.
hoping to eventually turbo her.
Are electric fans, forged pistons, roller rockers, and a "better" exhaust a good place to start? I'm still watching, reading, and learning the best I can. I would just like some more guidance.
Links to products, other builds, and step-by-step guides would be greatly appreciated, as I have never torn down an engine.
Thank you all

Also, the EFI exhaust manifolds are very close to header performance. Aside from an all-out build keep the EFI manifolds. Best torque is with a single 2 1/2" pipe after the manifolds merge. Power is lost with dual exhaust.

 

[JettB]

Also, the EFI exhaust manifolds are very close to header performance. Aside from an all-out build keep the EFI manifolds. Best torque is with a single 2 1/2" pipe after the manifolds merge. Power is lost with dual exhaust.

I didn't know that about the dual exaust, that's good to know cuz I was definitely woo'd by the look of it on other builds and was considering it

 

[Frank]

I didn't know that about the dual exaust, that's good to know cuz I was definitely woo'd by the look of it on other builds and was considering it

On a mild 6 the difference is not great, affects low/midrange torque most, which is key on these engines. A single is even more beneficial in balancing the airflow on street power level V8's. Why this is so hard for all of us to visualize is a mystery. Smooth airflow is efficient airflow. Even the Engine Masters guys (TV show) were surprised beyond words when, for kicks at the end of a multiple-configuration round of exhaust dyno tests, they put a long, single 3"pipe behind headers and Y pipe on a 351 Ford dyno mule, and gained double-digit power in TQ and HP over all the previous dual exhaust configurations. (Mid 400 hp engine).

If air slows down, it has to be shoved back up to speed by what's upstream. Pulsing exhaust is inefficient exhaust. Less backpressure at the exhaust valve occurs when the flow downstream maintains as close to a constant velocity as possible. With dual manifolds on the 300, each manifold's exhaust pulses are 240 crank degrees apart. If that is then flowing into an isolated (duals) 2" pipe, the pulses and air volume are not sufficient to maintain smooth velocity. Both manifolds flowing into a Y, into a single not-too-big pipe gives better "constant velocity" to the tailpipe, = more power at the crank.

The same principle applies to oversized exhaust pipes. There is a point -not far beyond stock pipe size- where larger is worse for best power production. Slight but real power gains are had when the pipe coming out of the muffler is reduced in size, since as the air cools density increases, and airflow slows. the smaller pipe keeps the velocity up, and the exhaust valve sees less backpressure.

 

[pmuller9]

On a mild 6 the difference is not great, affects low/midrange torque most, which is key on these engines. A single is even more beneficial in balancing the airflow on street power level V8's. Why this is so hard for all of us to visualize is a mystery. Smooth airflow is efficient airflow. Even the Engine Masters guys (TV show) were surprised beyond words when, for kicks at the end of a multiple-configuration round of exhaust dyno tests, they put a long, single 3"pipe behind headers and Y pipe on a 351 Ford dyno mule, and gained double-digit power in TQ and HP over all the previous dual exhaust configurations. (Mid 400 hp engine).

If air slows down, it has to be shoved back up to speed by what's upstream. Pulsing exhaust is inefficient exhaust. Less backpressure at the exhaust valve occurs when the flow downstream maintains as close to a constant velocity as possible. With dual manifolds on the 300, each manifold's exhaust pulses are 240 crank degrees apart. If that is then flowing into an isolated (duals) 2" pipe, the pulses and air volume are not sufficient to maintain smooth velocity. Both manifolds flowing into a Y, into a single not-too-big pipe gives better "constant velocity" to the tailpipe, = more power at the crank.

The same principle applies to oversized exhaust pipes. There is a point -not far beyond stock pipe size- where larger is worse for best power production. Slight but real power gains are had when the pipe coming out of the muffler is reduced in size, since as the air cools density increases, and airflow slows. the smaller pipe keeps the velocity up, and the exhaust valve sees less backpressure.

JettB is talking about turbocharging using the stock EFI exhaust manifolds which works well.
After the turbocharger the exhaust pipe needs to be as large as the turbocharger's turbine housing exducer OD.

 

[benchracer]

has any one checked out Keystone turbo they make a one piece turbo manifold(intake/exhaust) together. check facebook website has problems

 

[sdiesel]

I like the 6.9 exhaust system or the 5.8 Ford exhaust system they are plentiful and quiet.

 

[JettB]

JettB is talking about turbocharging using the stock EFI exhaust manifolds which works well.
After the turbocharger the exhaust pipe needs to be as large as the turbocharger's turbine housing exducer OD.

So if I fooled with the exhaust first, (I'm thinking of doing Flowmaster 40 series and 2.25 pipe out the back with no cats) would I need to match the turbo's turbine to that 2.25in size? Or would it be smarter to pick my turbo size first, exhaust later?

 

[JettB]

No. Keep the stock fan unless you have a heating problem, then deal with that. Hypereutectic pistons are readily available for much less $, and should be good for up to 300 HP. Roller rockers are not needed with the stock cam and valve train. With the turbo you may want a little more valve spring, but don't go overboard. Stay with the stock exhaust manifolds as they will work fine with the turbo. A free flow exhaust will help with the N/A application as well as with the turbo.

When it comes to shopping for all the parts to do the turbo kit, look to what the OEMs are doing and generally stock replacement parts are more economical. Also don't rule out the salvage yards. For example an HX35 turbo with integral waste gate starts around $200 on Amazon. And FJ20 injectors are about $25 on Rock Auto.

Interesting, cause I was advised on Facebook to do both electric cooling fans AND to swap the F-150 radiator out for an F-250 Radiator so it cools more efficiently. Kinda sad to know it may not be necessary lol seemed like a somewhat easy job to start with.

On the valve springs, I've read that when upgrading them, you risk stripping the timing gear set if it's not all metal? but like you said, don't go overboard on stiffness, and I'll be okay?

Thank you for the advice, I'm loving how informative and helpful this group of enthusiasts is!

 

[JettB]

The first place to start is to get an aftermarket EFI system, Holley Terminator X or HP as an example and get it installed and running on your present engine.
Then start looking at engine modifications for the turbocharger.

My grandma ran Holley carburetors in her drag 67 Falcon, so I know they've been top of the line for a while. Any other brands I should consider that wouldn't be as pricy, or is Holley worth the investment?

 

[pmuller9]

So if I fooled with the exhaust first, (I'm thinking of doing Flowmaster 40 series and 2.25 pipe out the back with no cats) would I need to match the turbo's turbine to that 2.25in size? Or would it be smarter to pick my turbo size first, exhaust later?

Pick your turbo size first, exhaust later

My grandma ran Holley carburetors in her drag 67 Falcon, so I know they've been top of the line for a while. Any other brands I should consider that wouldn't be as pricy, or is Holley worth the investment?

Are you really going to try to use a Holley carb as a blow through system with the turbocharger?
Bad Idea.

It would be best to keep the stock EFI intake and exhaust manifold for turbocharging and go to an aftermarket EFI port injected system like the Holley Terminator X or Holley HP.

If you want to go with an Offenhauser C intake manifold then you can use the Holley Sniper as the carburetor.
It is set up for turbocharging.

 

[JettB]

Pick your turbo size first, exhaust later



Are you really going to use a Holley carb as a blow through system with the turbocharger?
Bad Idea.

oh nonono lol I was just saying I've heard of the Holley name before and seen it in action. I def do NOT want to switch to carbureted. You recommended the EFI Terminator X system, and I was asking if the brand is still worth the investment.

 

[pmuller9]

oh nonono lol I was just saying I've heard of the Holley name before and seen it in action. I def do NOT want to switch to carbureted. You recommended the EFI Terminator X system, and I was asking if the brand is still worth the investment.

OK You had me worried for a moment.

 

[Frank]

On the valve springs, I've read that when upgrading them, you risk stripping the timing gear set if it's not all metal? but like you said, don't go overboard on stiffness, and I'll be okay?

You will replace the fiber timing gears with metal. "always done", except 100% stock EFI builds where the gear noise can possibly confuse the Knock sensor.

The 40 series Flowmasters are borderline obnoxious-loud. Since you're turbocharging, then the 40 will make a distinct turbine statement that can't be missed.