Info Needed: break in RPM's

[kukm66]

I was told to run the rebuilt 200 @ 2000 rpm for 30 minutes to seat everything.

Does the 2000 rpm sound right or too high?

 

[Explorer]

Worked for me. If you have to stop anywhere in the process, mark the time and continue when started back up. Don't try to tune it till after that breakin is over.

 

[cobraguy]

I will typically run a new engine for a short time to insure no leaks then button everything up and drive it at varying speeds from 45-65 mph with some uphills and down hills for 100 or more miles. No wide open romps, keep the rpm above 1500 and below 3500. Change the break in oil and filter before 500 miles.

 

[Gene Fiore]

2000 rpm is right. Just watch your water temp and if it gets too hot just shut it down until it cools off and then resume as the previous post states. The 30 minute break in is mostly to run in the new cam and lifters. What I do is as soon as the 30 minutes is over and the engine cools off I change the oil and filter right then before I do anything else. Better to be safe than sorry so a few bucks is well worth it.

 

[powerband]

Pre-lube oil pump thru distributor if possible. Initial startup of performance build is exciting, odds are some component may need tweaking before recommended static-cam / run-in can be considerd complete. Ensure sufficient guages are monitoring Oil/Cooling/Vac/elec. . Keep cooling carefully monitored, radiator can be flooded with hose if questionable .

 

[Lazy JW]

I was told to run the rebuilt 200 @ 2000 rpm for 30 minutes to seat everything.

Does the 2000 rpm sound right or too high?

This is good advice and you won't go wrong doing it this way; the idea is to ensure plenty of oil splashing around on the cam/lifters, and also to keep oil splashed up onto the cylinder walls. Bear in mind that this procedure was developed for V-8's which have the cam in the center of the block, and at low speeds there will be less oil hitting the cam; not really a problem on an inline six because the oil just naturally slobbers its way down and onto the cam at any speed.

I like to keep it somewhere between 2000-3000 rpm during breakin, no more, no less. So far no failures.
Joe

 

[rbohm]

8) the best advice you will find is what the cam manufacturer recommends for break in. for instance the first time i built my 289 many years ago, sig erson recommended that i run the engine at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. when i finally get around to building the engine again, i will be using a retro fit roller cam, and comp cams recommends running the engine at 1500 rpm for 20-25 minutes for break in. when my friend and i built the small block chevy for his camaro, comp cams recommended 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.

a good rule of thumb for flat tappet cams though is 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes, and DO NOT let the engine idle during that time. and by the way the 20 minutes is cumulative, so you can run it for 5 minutes, then let things cool down if you wish while you check for and repair any leaks you might have, then run it again to 5 minutes or so, until the 20 minute mark has been reached. just make sure that you have decent oil pressure, and decent coolant temp levels through out the procedure.

 

[80broncoman]

All good advice I see. Might I add driving is not really needed if don't want to. You can spay a water hose on the face of the raditor if the temps get to high.

 

[Gene Fiore]

I big box fan blowing into the radiator also helps keep temps down during the break in.

 

[mugsy]

Personally I wouldn't drive it before the cam break-in is done. When you change the oil you'll be amazed at how dirty it is . Last thing the engine needs it to be under a load with all that junk floating and circulating round in the oil. Do the "2000 rpm at 20 minute" break-in and change oil immediately. Drop the oil and before you put the plug back in, pour the 1/2 qt (left over from the 5 qts.) thru the block to flush the stuff out of the bottom. After the fresh crude is in the pan THEN go for a drive!

Just my $0.02

 

[CobraSix]

I agree with the oil change after the cam break in. If for no other reason than to get the assembly lube out of the system. Cheap insurance IMO.

At the time, my comp cams recommended 2000 RPM for 20 minutes. Don't be afraid to shut down the engine if something goes wrong. For instance, I found the oil pan had been bent slightly during install with the #6 counterweight was slapping the pan.

I didn't prelube through the dizzy. Instead, I used marvel mystery oil and squirted each cylinder, presoaked the lifters prior to install, and basically used the MMO on all moving parts. I cranked the engine over for 30 seconds with the ignition unblocked to move the MMO around some. Then fired it up.

Just how I was taught, for better or for worse.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Gene.Just for my own education.Why do you change the oil and filter after the the 25 to 30 minute break in period?I was under the impression that the oil goes from the pump directly to the filter before going to the rest of the oiling system for the motor.
Is the filter not capable of filtering out the"dirt"from the break in period?
Thanks.
Leo

 

[rbohm]

8) leo, the reason for an oil and filter change after cam break in is so that you can get all the assembly lube out of the engine, as well as all the little particles of metal that are small emough to go through the oil filter, but will damage bearings and cam lobes.

 

[mugsy]

8) leo, the reason for an oil and filter change after cam break in is so that you can get all the assembly lube out of the engine, as well as all the little particles of metal that are small enough to go through the oil filter, but will damage bearings and cam lobes.

TRU DAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the two engines I've done the oil as pitch BLACK right after start-up. You'll be amazed at how dirty it will get just from the break-in period. And like it was stated earlier, its very cheap insurance.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi guys.Thanks for the info.
Leo